So soldering isn't necessary.
We've found that, if a joiner likes to move, a spike (or two) will hold it in place just fine and is a lit easier to work with should repairs be necessary ... not that we've ever had to repair any track work in the past 23 years since it's always perfect first time *8^}.
Paul
interestingly, I didn't see his original post either, only the responses.
What are you cutting the gaps with and how wide are you making them? I have tried a razor saw and a Dremell with varying results.
Hi Richard:
I haven't cut any yet but will probably be ready to in a week or so. I was going to use the 56 teeth per inch Zona saw I bought a few weeks ago. It really does a nice job on rail. After cutting rail with that saw, it only requires minimal dressing with a couple of miniature files, vs. the fine tooth hacksaw I started with, whcih chews up the end quite a bit. I have a Dremal too, with both 1/32" stone and fiberglass ( or whatever) cutoff wheels, but the Zona saw seems thinner than that, plus it's almost impossible to hold a Drevel rock steady, at least for me. Some one on another thread weeks ago wrote that they use a little thin piece of styrene glued in the gap, and I assume one just files and sands it to match the rail profile. That's the plan. I learned a lot from this thread about rail joiners , blocks, jumper wires, etc. from everyone who was kind enough to reply with a post, and in a direct email to me. I'm sure each and every one has a 1000 times more experience than I, and really appreciate their taking the time to share it with a relative neophyte.
Wayne
Hi Wayne
I just started framing this week on my new layout so laying track is a little way down the road. In the past I used mostly the nylon joiners which if you weather the track and paint them aren't too bad. I have the tools to make cuts in the rail so I guess that I will try both saw and Dremell and see how it goes. Good luck on your layout.
Richard
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