Glue Question

Problem: I want to temporarily glue things such as figures, vehicles, and sundry other accessories to a module. I want the bond to be strong enough to
hold up under movement in a car or van, but allow me to remove the items without leaving a residue. Non-solvent based removal of some residue would be ok - like the stuff gluing inserts in magazines.
Only glue I can think of is something I saw peddled at a train show lo these many years ago. Presenter/Owner? glued a figure to a board and shook it around to show that the bond would hold. Then he grabbed the figure and pulled sharply parallel to the board and the figure was removed. Those are all the details I recall. No company or product name. Anyone know this product?
Any other suggestions?
TIA, LD
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I don't know of the product, but I've found Tester's model cement tends to come apart when humid or wet. Maybe you'll have some luck with that.
3M 77 spray adhesive comes to mind, also. I haven't used it, but have heard good things about it.
Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message

Thanks, that's good to know. For this application, getting the spray on O scale feet without a lot of overspray might be an issue. And I already have problems gluing self to things. :-)
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On 8/21/2009 11:30 PM LD spake thus:

Dunno. How about that "museum putty" stuff that people use to glue things to shelves so they don't get knocked over in earthquakes? It's supposed to be strong enough to hold things like pieces of china, but obviously is also meant to be removable.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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Great! That was the whack on the side of the head that I needed!
There are numerous similar products out there and now when I go looking for them there is some sensible to ask for rather than waving my arms and doing a model railroad figure demo.
Thanks
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wrote:

Three products come to mind. One is brand named Deja vu Glue and looks like a bottle of ordinary white glue which dries clear. When you are ready to remove it, just lift and it's separated. Your thumbnail will scrape off any residue.
http://www.catncartcrafts.com/store/WsDefault.asp?Cat=Glue Scroll down to second item.
The next is a roll of the same stuff that goes on clear cellophane tape but without the plastic. It's used for scrapbooking. I've seen several brands manufactured. You roll a bit on the item and it becomes self adhesive. Make sure you get the kind that is repositionable rather than permanent.
http://www.gluedots.com/display/router.aspx?DocID )7 Scroll down to the repositionable dots.
The last is a glue made just for the job.
http://miniatures.about.com/od/materialsforminiatures/gr/scenicaccentglu.htm -- Ray
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Smacks forehead!
Thanks.
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I'm assuming you are in the US? Here in the UK Blu-Tak is popular, and I know similar stuff is available in the US, but by a different name, which I cannot remember, which is not terribly helpful :-(
Failing that Glue Dots are popular. They are little dots of glue which are peeled off backing paper, and are ideal for holding figures to a layout. The same clear stuff that magazines use to attach free CDs to the cover, etc.
--
Graeme, Scotland

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I have used clear silicone sealant for years to glue buildings in place. They come up with the aid of a small screwdriver. Comes up easily and leaves almost no residue. Jeff
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Hi,
Jeff Stanton wrote:

Actually, my layout is of the "folding" type and the buildings need to be taken off, when folding. Now I'm looking for a solution to fix the buildings but keep them removable - something like a plug would be ideal, though I think it might be difficult to align correctly without damaging the building?
How do you do it?
Thanks ;-)
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Bernhard Agthe wrote:

Four methods I've seen and/or used:
1) Baseplate (foundation) for the building, pins and sockets. Whether pins should in baseplate or on baseboard is moot - both have dis/advantages. Main problem is bending pins. Pins and sockets can be used for electrical connections, if required. Tried this, a bear to line up pins and sockets after building completed, but easy if done before building is erected on base plate.
2) Square hole in baseplate, and corresponding card pad (2-3mm high) on baseboard (scenery). Better than pins/sockets, but electrical connections will be additional. I've used this with plastic and paper models. Cut and fit the card pad to suit the building before gluing it down... ;-)
3) Spread thin layer of plaster, let plaster set, and remove building until plaster dries. Imprint of building is now a socket into which building fits. Replace building, and finish scenic treatment. This gives best appearance. Seen this, looks good.
4) The Pendon method: make the building as the top end of a box long enough to reach the baseboard below the scene. You need corresponding hole in the scenic skin. The extension also provides a handle, makes finishing the model easier. Or so they say. I've not tried this, but it obviously works. Pendon offered a booklet on this method a few years ago.
HTH wolf k.
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On Mon, 24 Aug 2009 13:57:36 +0200, Bernhard Agthe wrote:

Those small composition magnets used in door catches can be removed and trimmed into smaller pieces (to reduce to force needed for removal of possibility delicate structures - you don't need a lot of force to keep them in place, gravity is on your side, and I assume you''' rempve and stre them before folding up the layout) that align with small steel plates (magnets in "foundation" on layout - easier to clean up stray ferrous bits that might be wander by and become atracted, plates recessed into base of structure). Electrical connections for lighting or animation motors can be made less subject to critical alignment fiddling by using pads of springy sheet brass or phosphor bronze or such - easily cleaned with an alcohol rag. Made large enough, say 1/2" square, the alignment is not that tricky.
--
Steve

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Hi,
Steve Caple wrote:

...
That's it! Thanks! ;-)
Ciao...
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On Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:11:37 +0200, Bernhard Agthe wrote:

Glad it helped, typos and all.
--
Steve

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On 8/22/2009 8:08 AM Graeme spake thus:

The stuff you're talking about is technically referred to as "fugitive glue" in the printing industry. I prefer to think of it as "snot".
--
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We use Glue Dots and get them at Michaels. They can be removed with a finger nail. They come in "permanent" as well as "temporary" versions. We use the permanent, but, as I said, a finger nail works if you want to remove them. There can be some wastage if you try to use the box as a dispenser instead of just for storage. The dots can stick to the inside of the box if it's used as a dispenser. If you've used a waxy temporary method to hold, be sure to clean it off before using the dots. Otherwise, the dots don't hold well.
--
Carl Heinz
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What about Walther's Scenic Accent Glue? Seems this is the type of job it's meant for.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-198
Problem: I want to temporarily glue things such as figures, vehicles, and sundry other accessories to a module. I want the bond to be strong enough to hold up under movement in a car or van, but allow me to remove the items without leaving a residue. Non-solvent based removal of some residue would be ok - like the stuff gluing inserts in magazines.
Only glue I can think of is something I saw peddled at a train show lo these many years ago. Presenter/Owner? glued a figure to a board and shook it around to show that the bond would hold. Then he grabbed the figure and pulled sharply parallel to the board and the figure was removed. Those are all the details I recall. No company or product name. Anyone know this product?
Any other suggestions?
TIA, LD
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Thanks to everyone. I've got a number of options now and more popping up now that I've got some brand names and types to search on.
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On 8/22/2009 7:21 PM LD spake thus:

Now isn't this better than some sumbitch saying "Just Google it!"?
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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Yeah, why didn't he just Google it?
--
Cheers.

Roger T.
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