Hints, tips, backshop tricks - Post 'em here.

I buy the cheap stuff *8^)

Paul

-- Excuse me, I'll be right back. I have to log onto a server in Romania and verify all of my EBay, PayPal, bank and Social Security information before they suspend my accounts.

Working the rockie road of the G&PX

Some the alcohol based hand cleaners and skin fresheners contain glycerin - makes the skin feel smooth after use.

When glueing some scenery, grass, soil etc, in hard to reach areas, use an eye dropper, BUT, use 1/2 each of water and white glue, and add about 20% of that of Isopropyl Alchohol. Saves wetting ahead of time, it is all in one. I keep some handy in a small jar. Tony

PN:

Probably shouldn't, if they're just alcohol and water. I was just cautioning people to read the label first to see what's in the bottle. I don't even know if glycerine would be a problem; it's just something I've heard from other people, so I've avoided mixtures that contain it.

Here's something, probably common knowledge, that I've used a lot. Baler twine, cut into short lengths, and planted with tweezers, makes excellent tall weeds. Some of it even has a slight greenish tinge. Old, frayed twine works the best.

Cordially yours: Gerard P. President, a box of track and some plans

It's not common knowledge to me.

Sounds like an interesting technique - what's baler twine?

Cheers,

Mark.

MN:

Well, it's just a cheapish, strong twine, made of sisal, I think, that's used for tying hay bales in hay balers. It's a nice light brown or pale greenish color.

(Hmm. Upon further research, it appears that the orange plastic kind may in most places be more common instead of the natural fiber which still seems quite widely used around here. Check with your farm store for availability. :) You can also buy balls of cheap twine at the hardware store...really, a lot of fibers work for this technique; yarn, unraveled sisal rope, cut-up hemp necklaces...:)

Cordially yours: Gerard P. President, a box of track and some plans.

Ah, like sisal rope, only finer. Definitely a technique worth trying.

Good on yer! :-)

Cheers,

Mark.

Folks:

Another one - I have made small plaster detail castings in molds made from silicone bathroom caulking compound. It's not as handy as RTV and tends to stick to the pattern more, but it does work. I used the kind that releases acetic acid as it cures; the GE "Silicone II" doesn't work because it sticks too well.

Cordially yours: Gerard P. President, a box of track and some plans

Using 12v really over stresses the blubs. 110vac/25 comes out to 4.4 volts each. How long do they last for you?

Gerald wrote:

"Another tip- for cheap bulbs to light your buildings with, cut apart a malfunctioning Christmas tree miniature light set. (you know, the one with the burned out bulb you can't track down). The 25-light type's bulbs seem to work best on 12 v, but you can adjust the lighting voltage to suit other sizes. Not only are these bulbs a huge bargain, their sockets make them easily replaceable. Just drill a hole in the tabletop and glue the socket in, with the wires sticking below the layout. I used to have a city lit with nothing but these. White lights are of course best, but you can scrape or sand the dye from the colored lights.

Nycf:

Hmm. Actually, it's been a few years since I used this idea, but ISTR the sets I was using were connected in two loops (three wires), so the voltage per bulb would be 120/12 or 10v...still running them over voltage. Now that I think of it, I was probably powering the lights with an old Bachmann trainset power pack's variable DC output, adjusted for brightness, and I may have connected two or more parallel sets of lamps in series. Yes, series connections must have been involved...because I remember replacing one building's light with a 'blinker' bulb and watching half the town flash on and off. :D

Another tip: Look for scale trees when you are weeding the garden. Trimmed and painted green, goldenrod has been used by a lot of modelers for scale forests. You can bulk up the trunk by wrapping it with tape, then painting it gray.

Cordially yours: Gerard P. President, a box of track and some L-girders.

Another tree option, if you are a gardening type (I'm not, but I will if I have to), is grow your own. The type that Woodland Scenics produce their "fine-leaf foliage" from is very similar to the plant Teloxys Aristata (if it isn't actually Teloxys Aristata). Of course you have to dip in glue and add foliage with a suitable sawdust/ground foam/whatever.

I bought some seeds a year ago, planted them in April and if I remember right the crop was ready about September or so. My plants were a little stunted cause I transplanted them quite late, but I wanted some smaller trees too, so this was good...

And you get a lot of trees this way.

Ivor

Is there a common "garden variety" name for Teloxys Aristata? I gotta feeling that the local Home Depot isn't going to know that name. I'm putting in some garden this spring (after the snow melts out) and I might try growing some if I could find the seeds.

David Starr

I believe it is also called Sea Foam and I have heard that florists sometimes use it, but there is also another plant that I've seen called Sea Foam, so both names would probably be necessary. You might need to go to (or contact on the internet) a specialist seed merchant - I got mine from Chiltern Seeds here in the UK, but I'm sure they must be available in the US as well - apparently the plant is some sort of tumbleweed from Mongolia if I remember correctly, but don't quote me on that...

Ivor