I purchased a used HO caboose and it had nice clear window glazing
applied. I had to wash the car off and the window glazing immediately
turned white and partially dissolved into an Elmer's glue type paste.
I've been trying various water based glues but have been unsuccessful
trying to duplicate the original clear glazing. Anyone know what is
used to make the glazing? Thanks
That sounds like the glazing was made using Microscale Krystal Klear, a
similar competitor, or a home-made concoction using white glue.
You should be able to recreate it using Krystal Klear. This will take you
to Microscale's web page on the product:
Why not just use products mentioned in the thread? They aren't *THAT*
expensive (couple of dollars). Plain Elmers white glue might work too.
Personally I don't like this type of glazing. It never looks like flat
glass but more like a lens. That is due to the way it dries. It dries
concave and thin in the middle and thick on the perimeter. IMO, that
looks like crap. I much rather glue in some thin clear styrene,
acetate or similar plastic sheet. Some people actually use micorscope
slide glass covers for the ultimate "real glass" effect. That looks
great especially in larger scales.
You're correct. In certain applications (like model automobile
windows), Krystal Klear works ok and is the easiest solution to use.
In those applications the car bodies are usually molded with quite thin
walls, so that helps in the Krystal Kleas to set up quite thin
throughout the entire opening. Also. most automotive windows are
curved so, Krystal Klear doesn't look too odd.
But in most rolling stock, windows are supposed to be flat and the wall
thickness of those models caused Krystal Klear to harden up concave.
So, plastic glazing looks more realistic.
Someone else mentioned Mica as a good material for dirty windows. That
works, but I think Mica has too much of a metallic-like sheen. It looks
more silver than transparent.
Well, they say that nothing looks more like wood than wood. Similarly,
nothing looks more like glass than glass. I've used microscope cover
glasses normally used to hold a specimin to a microscope slide. Cutting it
is tricky but you can bet that it's optically flat and as clear as possible.
Not entirely all that exciting, but in the current month's Model
Railroader there is a review on the Walthers Flour Mill and Grain
Elevator buildings - what's relevant (and I felt odd) was the reviewer
recommended using Kyrstal Klear (or equivalent) to represent the
glazing in the lower windows in the grain elevator, as it is otherwise
'too hard' to put the usual plastic glazing into the windows. Since
Walthers invariably includes plenty of plastic glazing with their
building kits (enough at least for all the windows in the kit, and
often a number of spare pieces), I found this review 'hint' to reek a
bit of laziness and poor construction methods...
Apparently it is difficult to access the inside of the building to
install window glazing after assembly (at least the way the building
was assembled by the reviewer).
Feb. 2007 Model Railroader Mag, pg 97.
I suspect this is a case of not logically thinking through the assembly
sequence. I have found that following the assembly instructions is
not always the best way to assemble kits. Althought I haven't
assembeld or even examined this kit, so I'm only speculating.
Either not thinking through, or just blindly following the instructions
for the kit, or being in a hurry.
It does take a bit of planning and care to install glazing while a kit
is being built, but it can be done in all cases that I know of. The
trick is the sequence of operations.
If you're going to paint the walls, you have to do that *before* you
attach the glazing. (Unless you want painted-out windows.) Of course,
painting is (usually) simpler when the structure is put together,
meaning that you may have boxed yourself out of being able to install
the glazing; I suspect this is what happened to the reviewer here. But
you can paint the walls, attach the glazing, and then glue the walls
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
You are correct about drying concave and being rather thin in the
middle. I did try Elmer's glue and it worked great from a cohesive
point of view. It dried flat and filled the window nicely. However, it
was translucent. Maybe a combination of Elmer's and Microscale Krystal
Klear might work. I'm going to give it a try. Thanks
On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 11:17:01 -0500, I said, "Pick a card, any card"
You could go to a rock shop and get some mica. Works great. Looks
just like glass that's been out in the weather and gotten a tiny bit
dirty, dusty and a greasy. Crumble a sheet of it from a large, flat
piece, cut it to fit and glue it in place.
I have used Micro Kristal Klear from Microscale to make thin film
windows on a Campbell structure that I'm building.
I have to wonder if it's really a special formula. It looks an awful
lot like standard white glue when put on, but it dries clear very
similar to white glue. Makes me wonder if you could do the same thing
with white glue.
Go over to a craft store and ask for "Gallery Glass" Crystal Clear, part
number 16001. It may be the same as what Micro Mark sells under their name?
Up hill slow, down hill fast, tonnage first, safety last.
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