Lionel 1225 locomotive

Seems like a silly question, but should I be able to push a 1225 along the tracks with power off and have the drive wheels turn? Or hold it in one hand and try to turn the drive wheels with the other? I can't do either; seems like everything is locked up.

Several weeks ago, I had the same problem. I opened it up and didn't find anything obviously wrong. Put it together, placed it on the tracks, and it ran okay.

Is is possible that there is some position where the gears lock up if the power is turned off at the "wrong" time.

Thanks.

Reply to
Rebel1
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I don't remember a few weeks ago after it was running okay whether I could turn the drive wheels by hand.

Reply to
Rebel1

Seems like a silly question, but should I be able to push a 1225 along the tracks with power off and have the drive wheels turn? Or hold it in one hand and try to turn the drive wheels with the other? I can't do either; seems like everything is locked up.

Several weeks ago, I had the same problem. I opened it up and didn't find anything obviously wrong. Put it together, placed it on the tracks, and it ran okay. (I don't remember whether I could then turn the drive wheels by hand.)

Is is possible that there is some position where the gears lock up if the power is turned off at the "wrong" time or if the engine is push by hand into a "locked" position?

Thanks.

Reply to
Rebel1

You should be able to turn the wheels on all old Lionel locos, some more easily than others. If it hangs up, something is jammed. Could be many things, for example gear wear, dirt build-up in the gears, a broken gear tooth, or the effects of time on zinc-alloy castings. Impurities will trigger internal crystal-growth, which expands and distorts the casting (wheel, in this case), which of course could cause jamming. Eventually, the casting will simply fall apart because of the pressure build-up inside it.

If the a wheel casting has deteriorated, there is no cure for this. You'll have to get a emplacement. However, if it's dirt, clean the engine thoroughly and relubricate it. I'd do this anyhow, because it won't hurt and can help a lot.

Good luck, Wolf K.

Reply to
Wolf K

Thanks for the reply, Wolf.

I think this engine, from China, was built only three years ago.

I separated the top from the bottom. Over the drive wheels, which have rubber "tires" to improve traction, there is a cylindrical electric motor. On top of it is a round brass cap (looks somewhat like a Chinese coolie hat), connected to the motor shaft. If I turn the cap, the wheels turn, much geared down. So the resistance I feel is simply because I'm trying to fight a high-ratio gear train, not a locked gear.

The DC resistance of the motor alone, with its connector removed from the circuit board, is 2 ohms. It's driven by a circuit board with two low-level transistors, two power transistors, and five integrated circuits (plus passive components).

Now that I understand the inner workings somewhat, I think that not being able to turn the wheels by hand is irrelevant. I now suspect an intermittent on the board.

As a side note, I powered the loco from my old ZW. The wheels turned, but I could not change the direction. And the transformer's whistle control didn't blow the whistle, but increased the speed of the wheels. So control of direction and whistle have changed over the decades.

R1

Reply to
Rebel1
[snip]

I think at this point I would (reluctantly, of course) actually read the manual.... ;-)

Good luck, Wolf K.

Reply to
Wolf K

Good recommendation. The manual revealed that there are two extremely inconspicuous switches at the rear of the loco. On prevents going in reverse, which was the cause of my problem, the other turns the smoke generator on or off.

R1

Reply to
Rebel1

The last sentence should read "One prevents going...."

Reply to
Rebel1

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