I bought some led's at radio shack and must have bought the wrong resistors for them. they dont work :( the led's are yellow 5mm 2.1 volt 20mA 720mcd. I bought A470 resistors and they dont work can anyone help me with this ?
Assuming 12V supply, with 470R, the LED voltage will be 2.6V Is this within the LED max voltage? The high brightness LEDs I have are rated at 1.8V nominal and 2.4V maximum. You would probably be better off with 560R
Test them with a 1.5V torch battery to make sure that you didn't let the smoke out. Although my experience is that if you supply too much voltage they tend to explode.
I'm running Podogy advance dcc system ho 12 volt. the led package says .... Forward supply voltage 2.1 typ. 3.0 max. forward current 20mA typ. 30mA max. a470 ohm's resistor
E. T. Atk> I bought some led's at radio shack and must have bought the wrong
Nope, polarity doesnt matter for resistors, better to make sure it is rated high enough to do the task in wattage. Unless you are shedding a lot of electrons, 1/4 watt resistor is normally good enough, if in doubt use 1/2 watt. And the value of the resistor is not critical - I have seen anything used from 220 ohms to 1000 ohms depending on the preference of the installer.
You could also try just one resistor in the blue (common) wire, rather than the feed to each LED assuming we are only talking front and rear lights.
470 Ohms is just about perfect at your stated voltage. If the LED doesn't light, I suspect you have it in backwards like others have suggested...flip it around.
Scott
E. T. Atk> I'm running Podogy advance dcc system ho 12 volt.
With his stated supply voltage and resistor (470 Ohm), current flow would be 21 mA, well under the 30 mA max specified for the LED. This is assuming his supply is 12 Volts DC...if it's 12 Volts AC, then the peak current would be around 32 mA.
Here is a handy calculator for finding LED resistance values:
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Radio Shack also publishes a great little book titled: "Getting Started in Electronics" which will help you immensely in understanding things like resistors, diodes, and polarity. It worked for me.
When you use LED's it is often not neccesary to use it at full current consumption. My experiance shows that reducing from 20 to 10mA doesn't half the amount of light from the LED. It stays allmost the same.
Most moderne LED's give sufficent light from 5mA, eveten though it can consume 20mA.
Yepp... The LEDs could be the wrong way round. They WILL pass current in BOTH directions, but will only light in ONE.
The choice of a 470 ohm resistor is correct. Current = Voltage divided by Resistance.
Are you sure they are 470 Ohms, and not 470k Ohms?
To calculate, assuming a 'rough' LED Voltage of 2.0 and a
12 Volt supply, the voltage across the resistor will be 10V.
(12 - 2 = 10).
The current flow through a 470 Ohm resistor will be
10/470 (Amps), which is approx. 21.3 milliamps (0.0213).
If the LEDs have not been damaged, they will work OK with the 470 Ohm resistors.
The resistor may get too hot if it is not big enough to handle the power-loss, so it needs to be rated at more than 1/4 Watt. A 1/2 Watt resistor would be the best choice, so that it will not get too hot!
The power used in the resistor is equal to Volts times Current.
Taking the above figures, 10(V) * 0.0213(A) = 0.213 Watts.
Robert and everybody else: please note that LEDs are current devices, not voltage devices. The thing that kills them is too much current when in the forward direction, not the voltage across them. In the reverse direction, voltage will kill them but that is just overloading the capabilities of the LED to resist the voltage that is across them like any diode will do. A LED will allow the voltage increase across the terminals until the device starts conducting. At that point, any increase in current will provide only a slight increase in voltage until you get to the overload point where the device starts overheating (anytime you drop a voltage across a resistance, you get heat!) and soon melts something inside, sometimes the wire connection, sometimes the device itself, and the diode stops emitting light. I say this stuff because a lot of you think, from the way that you are talking of the devices, that they work by putting a voltage across them. This is the way to disaster - a good stiff power supply can provide a lot of current to one and kill it in no time at all. Batteries are a good stiff supply and can provide more than enough current into the LED to destroy it. Been there and done that! LEDs are current devices so provide them a way to self-regulate their voltage by providing a resistor in series with the power at all times.
-- Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits everybody else. How dumb!
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