Paint question....

Bought a spray can of Model Master stainless steel buffing metalizer to coat a passenger car that I've stripped...
Two questions...
First, is it absolutely necessary that I buff this paint, or will it come out looking reasonably good without the buffing?
Second, what's the best product or material to use for buffing if I do go ahead with it?
The can says to refer to the Metalizer Instruction Booklet for detailed instructions, but, of course, there wasn't such a booklet available.
Many thanks,
Andy
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Andy spake thus:

Figures, huh?
Generally speaking, anything that wants to be buffed wants a very soft, clean cloth to do the buffing. Something like an old, well-washed cotton t-shirt. *Not* a towel; too rough. Just make sure there's no dirt or other particles to cause scratching. (This from long experience buffing such things as newly-lacquered guitars, which are much more critical than your application.)
--
Don't talk to me, those of you who must need to be slammed in the
forehead with a maul before you'll GET IT that Wikipedia is a
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Spray Paint? That causes ozone holes and global warming! Why are you still using these horrid things. Please stop killing the planet.
-----
Steve

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On Mar 2, 7:32 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

How about if I just use one n scale passenger car's worth? How much of the planet will that kill?
Perhaps I can just purchase some carbon credits from Al Gore. He seems to have plenty.
But thanks anyway for your answer to my initial question.
Andy
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Andy wrote:

Andy, Try the Testor's PDF at this link. They have a few lines about applying and buffing this paint starting on about the 4th page:
http://www.testors.com/tes_cds/hobby_guides/08%20Special%20Effects.pdf
HTH, Steve
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About all I can do is point out that it likely depends a lot on the skill of the painter. I've given up trying to paint rolling stock as it isn't something I seem to be able to do well.
So, I think you would fist and foremost want to evaluate your own skills and past experiences at painting with other types of paint.
--
-Glennl
The despammed service works OK, but unfortunately
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Andy wrote:
> Bought a spray can of Model Master stainless steel buffing metalizer > to coat a passenger car that I've stripped... > > Two questions... > > First, is it absolutely necessary that I buff this paint
Yes, otherwise you wind up with a finish that looks like galvanised sheet metal.
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Thanks Mark. That's the information I was looking for.
So now I know that I'll have to buff it, and I have some ideas as to what to use to do so.
Thanks to all - except CovvTseTung, whose sophomoric comments seem to indicate that he's been working around volatile solvents for far too long.
Andy
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Andy wrote:

Andy, you will find it very useful to learn how to use your newsreader's filter tool. You can set the newsreader to block/mark as read/delete by subject line keywords and by sender's names (or parts of their names.) CTT is already on my senders filter, for example.
HTH
--
--
Wolf

"Don't believe everything you think." (Maxine)
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Since some of us can't killfile, and so get all the troll quotes as well, just to clear up any confusion for those who don't already know:
"Aerosol Spray Paints have not contained ozone depleting chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) since 1978. Aerosol Spray Paints do not deplete the ozone layer."
So to the 'concerned trolls' we can safely say: DISMISSED!
Also, here's an interesting page (someone possibly copied from a Testor page) in regards to using Model Master paints (bottle, spray, airbrush) - you may have seen it already, but what the heck:
http://members.aol.com/tigerlink/hint46.htm
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If I recall, that Metalizer line of paint, after buffing, also needs a special protective clear sealer coat. It's been awhile but I think if left unsealed the paint will start to oxidize or something like that.
~Brad fd64
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On Mar 3, 12:33 pm, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

Now I hadn't seen anything about that anywhere. I'll have to keep that in mind.
I probably would be giving it a coat of "something" anyway - to protect the decals after they've been applied. But thanks again for this suggestion.
Andy
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That's right! Several models I did with buffing Metalizer turned to dull gray in three or four years -- even with a light coat of the sealer. The problem with using the sealer is that it degrades the shine. If you use enough to protect from oxidation you probably won't have any shine left. There are much better products for Natural Metal Finishes such as Alclad II, SnJ polishing powder and even an automotive touch-up paint from Pep Boys (Plasti-Kote Bumper Chrome). All of these finishes are a bit technique sensitive so some practice and testing is advised to assure you get the results you want. Done properly you can get a very realistic NMF.
J. Bright
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These paints are the worst at killing the air and planet. Look at your kids is your shiney model worth their life?

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We can only pray you die first.
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STEVE CAPLE typical childish behavior on your part. Still praying for you. I am sorry you are so lost and bitter.
On Mar 3, 8:19?pm, STEVE CAPLE wrote:

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<STEVE CAPLE> wrote in message

Sure STEVE CAPLE keep praying you inbred bible thumping mouth drooling ass.
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Jim Bright wrote:

JB:
Could the clearcoat you were using have been incompatible with Testors paint...or all too compatible, partly dissolving it? What sort of paint was it?
Cordially yours: Gerard P.
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I used Testors Metalizer Sealer which is specifically for sealing the buffing type Metalizer. I didn't apply it heavily so that I could retain some degree of reflectivity. It evidently wasn't thick enough to protect the surface from oxidation since it turned flat gray in about 3 or 4 years. It's been eight or nine years since I used buffing Metalizer last so it is possible that they may have made some changes in it - but I doubt it. If you apply a fairly thick clear coat you will probably get much better protection but, you will end up with a "wet look" which may be appealing but it won't look like the natural metal finish of a streamlined passenger car. It will look more like the shiny metallic paint finish you might see on an automobile.
If you are interested the link below is to a site with a pretty in depth study of some of the natural metal finish products that are available. I did my own testing of products with the objective of obtaining the right look for a stainless steel clad streamline passenger car.
http://modelingmadness.com/others/features/mp/mcleodpaints.htm
J. Bright
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On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 09:33:05 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

Just goes dull, after 18 years the clearcoat on my metallic blue & silver Patrol is peeling in patches, the paint is still good. As the car is not worth much I am just putting on more clearcoat, there is a slight colour difference, which does not worry me as it has scratches from bush tracks antway. My son, who is putting metallic silver on his project Gemini, says do not buff otherwise the metallic sheen will be ruined, just apply clearcoat.. Alan, in Gosnells, Western Oz. VK6 YAB VKS 737 - W 6174
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