On 10/29/2009 12:30 PM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:
Without having used it, I can tell you that it will work, although the
cut may be a bit ragged. I have cut aluminum on a larger table saw with
a carbide blade. Usually needs cleaning up afterwards.
In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. You also might
want to try a fine non-carbide blade (like one made for plywood).
--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached
recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16";
https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm
I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they
recommended the following abrasive cut off disk;
http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DIA-10mm-HOLE,8115.html
My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good.
ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever.
I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is
recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think?
On 10/30/2009 8:53 AM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:
>
>
OK. I'd at least consider their recommendation.
http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DIA-10mm-HOLE,8115.html
I wouldn't use an abrasive disk for cutting aluminum. Too soft, and
leaves a *really* jagged edge. Works OK for ferrous metals.
Aluminum's softer than brass, or about as soft, so it *should* work. I'd
try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive.
--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go. My
father was an industrial arts teacher and I learned from him some 54
years ago. In the time since then I have cut all types of metals and
woods and the rule has always been to use higher number of teeth per
inch or centimeter, however you want to measure, if you want a fine
cut.
John Hubbard
Got the machine and the 168T blade yesterday. It cut through the .1"
alu like butter leaving a mirror looking finish as though it was
milled. Exactly what I was looking for. BTW, for those in the USA,
MIcro-Mark has a sale on the Proxxon FKS/E "clone" (doesn't look as
impressive but made by Proxxon using same parts and spec) for $259.95,
that's $90.00 off their usual price of $349.95. Even at $259.95 it's
overpriced IMO but I needed something small, quiet, with variable
speed and a finished cut.
The "rule of thumb" for sawing anything successfully is to have a minimum
of 3 teeth cutting in the material at any given moment.
Less teeth will cut, but extremely roughly with likely damage to the teeth
and to the material.
For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more.
I personally would have a go with a saw of 20 or more teeth per inch, but
carefully.
Greg.P.
RPM should also be a factor when considering rotary saws. I'm able to
rip 1/16" aluminum sheeting using a 7 T/I blade and the finish looks
like a metal shear prtess was used. No sanding required. However,
things start getting ragged when thickness approaches .1".
I'd be most worried about the ability of the motor to drivve the blade.
Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot smoother than
if cut dry. The blade will also not fill with aluminum and thus keep a
better cutting.
--
Bob May
rmay at nethere.com
http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay
http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net
On 10/31/2009 5:00 AM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:
Ackshooly, no lube on a saw blade is going to do much good, as it's all
gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade (unless one
has a steady flow of oil or something). Oil *is* messy. No lubricant
required for this sort of cutting.
--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
On 11/4/2009 4:43 PM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:
Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools. But
that lube isn't going to stay there forever; just saying that it gets
worn off pretty quickly.
--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31kw6Js%2BnCL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
Just touch it to the blade while spinning. Good for several cuts, just
re-apply on the fly between cuts. Much better than oil.
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.