Proxxon FKS/E or Micro-Mark equivalent mini table saw

On 10/29/2009 12:30 PM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:

Without having used it, I can tell you that it will work, although the cut may be a bit ragged. I have cut aluminum on a larger table saw with a carbide blade. Usually needs cleaning up afterwards.

In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. You also might want to try a fine non-carbide blade (like one made for plywood).

The "rule of thumb" for sawing anything successfully is to have a minimum of 3 teeth cutting in the material at any given moment. Less teeth will cut, but extremely roughly with likely damage to the teeth and to the material. For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more. I personally would have a go with a saw of 20 or more teeth per inch, but carefully.

Greg.P.

Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16";

I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they recommended the following abrasive cut off disk;

My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good. ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever.

I'm lean>

RPM should also be a factor when considering rotary saws. I'm able to rip 1/16" aluminum sheeting using a 7 T/I blade and the finish looks like a metal shear prtess was used. No sanding required. However, things start getting ragged when thickness approaches .1".

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On 10/30/2009 8:53 AM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus: >

OK. I'd at least consider their recommendation.

I wouldn't use an abrasive disk for cutting aluminum. Too soft, and leaves a *really* jagged edge. Works OK for ferrous metals.

Aluminum's softer than brass, or about as soft, so it *should* work. I'd try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive.

Actually, it's $10.00 cheaper than the carbide blade. Thanks!

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I'd be most worried about the ability of the motor to drivve the blade. Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot smoother than if cut dry. The blade will also not fill with aluminum and thus keep a better cutting.

-- Bob May

rmay at nethere.com http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net

I never cut dry, that's >

On 10/31/2009 5:00 AM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:

Ackshooly, no lube on a saw blade is going to do much good, as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade (unless one has a steady flow of oil or something). Oil *is* messy. No lubricant required for this sort of cutting.

I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go. My father was an industrial arts teacher and I learned from him some 54 years ago. In the time since then I have cut all types of metals and woods and the rule has always been to use higher number of teeth per inch or centimeter, however you want to measure, if you want a fine cut. John Hubbard

I can see you've never used a lube "cray>

Got the mach>

On 11/4/2009 4:43 PM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:

Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools. But that lube isn't going to stay there forever; just saying that it gets worn off pretty quickly.

Try this;