Recommend a Coal Tender?

8) My scratch building of small tanks in 1:72 scale from just plastic card has won prizes at IPMS shows, so I should be OK. In any event, as Mark Newton quite rightly observes, whatever I use as the "armature" be it a running or non-running engine, a beautiful and pricey European engine or a low end Model Power engine or even just scrap plastic will be completely covered in the finihed project.

Actually, my wife, who always takes an interest in my projects (she describes military modelling, wargaming and model railroading as "art") took a look last night at the line diagram of the G5 and then the armoured loco I want to build. Her reaction was to twist her face and call the Ti3 "extremely ugly" and that "it would be a crime" to cover up a really nice locomotive model that way. 8)

Going back to the first Model Power locomotive I was investigating (

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), the dimensions of it seem to be fine - about 5mm too long in HO scale, so the drive wheels would probably be an acceptable size and they "look" to be spaced fine. I can then order the spare spoked wheels direct from Dapol and put together a coal tender.

I think I'm set. Thank you Greg, for your patience and help and again, I also thank Mark and Gerard for their efforts and thoughts on this, and Wolf, too, of course (PS Wolf, I'm in Newfoundland, unfortunately too far away from the hobby shop Mecca - at least compared to here! - of the Toronto area).

Reply to
Tim Marshall
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Er, Greg, you're right about the correct tender, etc. But OP just wanted a non-operating thingy with the correct wheel base so he could cover it all up plasticard, and paint it field grey or whatever colour the Polish armed forces used in 1930. So exact protoypical accuracy wasn't as important as it is to you or me. Any 6=wheel tender close to the correct wheelbase in actual inches would do.

Still, ta for the info on Fleischmann. I hope I recall it next time someone wants to know. :-)

Reply to
Wolf

Cheers,

Mark.

Reply to
Mark Newton

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