Split Lines

Isnt it about time that both Hornby and Bachmann concentrated on dealing with split lines in the boilers? Has anyone seen or got a new rebuilt West
Country/BOB? There are two, equally as prominent. This is just one example, there are many others and in my view, they could be easily done away with.
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TheLegacy wrote:

You need the split lines so you can tell the model from the real thing!
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TheLegacy wrote:

When you say "split lines", do you mean the mould parting lines? They're easily dealt with. Either rub them down with a fine-grade sanding stick, or attach some tiny band clamps to the boiler bands. Then the parting lines can simulate the appearance of the seams in the cladding - problem solved.
Mark.
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marknewton wrote:

I will try this, thanks! Its just odd that Hornby dont do it in the first place, they seem to spoil really nice models in my opinion.
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TheLegacy via ModelGeeks.com wrote:
> marknewton wrote: > >>> Isnt it about time that both Hornby and Bachmann concentrated on >>> dealing with split lines in the boilers? Has anyone seen or got a >>> new rebuilt West Country/BOB? There are two, equally as >>> prominent. This is just one example, there are many others and in >>> my view, they could be easily done away with. >> >> When you say "split lines", do you mean the mould parting lines? >> They're easily dealt with. Either rub them down with a fine-grade >> sanding stick, or attach some tiny band clamps to the boiler bands. >> Then the parting lines can simulate the appearance of the seams in >> the cladding - problem solved.
> I will try this, thanks! Its just odd that Hornby dont do it in the > first place, they seem to spoil really nice models in my opinion.
I think it probably comes down to keeping labour costs as low as possible. I've noticed with RTR models from a number of manufacturers things like the parting lines not removed, or moulding flash present on parts. I'm guessing that they don't regard it as cost effective to have the workers sanding or trimming parts more than is absolutely necessary for assembly.
If you use a sanding stick to remove the part lines, try to use a fine grade to minimise damage to the paint finish. If you do scuff the paint slightly, it can usually be polished out with a fine polishing medium such as toothpaste or Brasso. Once polished, the area can be lightly airbrushed with a suitable varnish to match the remainder of the model, and it should be indistinguishable from the original factory finish.
Good luck with it,
Mark.
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