On 3/20/2011 3:20 PM Greg Procter spake thus:
Haven't even heard of that gauge: is that the same as TT ("tabletop")?
Heck, don't even know of any Z-scale modelers here (and the older I get
and the worse my eyesight gets, the lower the probability that I'll ever
be interested in it).
That's Exactly what I want. There is a section of the Columbia Gorge from
Wishram, Washington west at least as far as Horse Thief Lake that I really
enjoy just for the scenery. The prototype action on both sides of the river
is interesting, but I just want to run passenger trains on that section of
the Washington side. In T scale full scale scenery would be possible.
Looking a T again, I'm thinking I might be happy starting with Japanese
prototypes. I'd have to sell my N scale stuff first though or my spouse
would have a fit. I already do N and O (n30) and one more might be a scale
too far ... :()
If you have Google Earth, a look at that area of the Gorge might be
enjoyable if you've never been there.
On 3/20/2011 5:57 PM Lobby Dosser spake thus:
Well, to me, that's a Bad Thing, as those models are just too damned
teeny-tiny to properly see anything. *However*, there's one aspect of those small scales that could be great:
the ability to model huge landscapes not possible in larger scales, with
sweeping vistas. And that is a very intriguing thing.
True. :-(
We're talking T-scale (1:450) so everything HAS to be long!
An 80' passenger coach scales out at 2.133" long/short.
I'm only one person :-)
Currently working on NZR models and a few English prototypes in etched
brass
but my local etcher wants a full A3 sheet before he will start. Can you
imagine how many T scale models I need to draw up to fill an A3 sheet?
(rhetorical)
T-scale is going to have to be about scale trains traversing large
vistas.
I might have to start with one size of driving wheel and find locos to
match.
Don't expect full working valve gear for a while - just making a tool to
insert crank-pins will be a major accomplishment.
Imagine a crank-pin 1/5th the size of HO and inserting that into a
0.133" diameter
wheel.
That is already available in the UK.
The gauge is 3mm.
Japanese scale is 1:450
For the UK and USa I suggest 1:457 (0.667mm:1') or 1:456 (1":38')
For New Zealand with 1067mm gauge I'm working on 1:360.
That could be reduced to "It" and "I".
I already have G and HO.
I got my first sample T set in the post a few days ago. Train + track +
controller.
It came in a carton about 8" x 5" x5". The set of four packaged
Japanese EMU
would fit in a cigarette box with space for at least one more set.
All those years of sneaking HO locos home under my coat ...
They even produce 80' rolling chassis which only need a body added!
Greg.P.
Right now (well, when I get off the net) I'm struggling with just how
much
detail to include and how much to ignore.
I just drew up a goods bogie (US truck) and it scales out at 3.8mm long.
Should I include bolts on the axle boxes? Should I bother with axle
boxes?
Brake gear? Truss rods?
By the time I rescale the CAD drawing to finished size the lines only
show
two blobs (wheels) and a single lumpy line between.
Ahhhggg!
Greg.P.
Don't think full working valve gear would be needed for a while as the works
are tough to see to begin with. Your idea of picking a driving wheel size
seems a good one, particularly as you could hit some sizes for freight and
passenger in multiple countries. One advantage of T is that it is the same
scale in the US, UK and Europe. NTM the rest of the world ...
- The Brits traditionally like their scales in MM:ft. (0.667:1')
- Yanks seem to prefer all archaic Imperial measurements as in feet per
inch or
fractions of an inch per foot. (38' per inch or 1/38" per foot)
- Europeans prefer round ratios. (1:450)
Here in NZ the end of the steam era co-incided with our conversion from
archaic
Imperial to metric so a ratio divisible by 12 and a round number is
preferable,
hence 1:360. (1067mm gauge)
They are currently offering only turnouts with reverse curves
incorporated, but
they are easily "Dremeled" to remove the reverse curve. There's a fair
degree
of accuracy required though.
Easy enough to fit a point motor under the baseboard - that results in a
relatively
deep baseboard thoug.
Simple problem:
- If the scale gauge is wider than prototype then bogie sideframes have
to
be moved outwards to clear the wheels and on steam engines the cylinders
and rods have to be moved out. That's assuming Proto 450 wheel and track
standards, but current T wheels are more N++ standard (proportionately)
The Japanese have painted themselves into a non-scale corner by
representing
1067mm gauge with overwidth 3mm in 450 scale. Mind you, they've done the
same
with HO (1:80) and N (1:150) Here in NZ we use 1:64 and 1:120 on HO and
N track.
Greg.P.
NZ
Tut tut tut Greg. You are trying to confuse our poor American
friends, not difficult, I know, just as it is not difficult to confuse
Poms and you Kiwis. Just slightly more difficult for us and even
harder the further west you travel. Stir with VBG!
To enlighten our friends, 1:64 is S scale and when used with 16.5
mm wide track ( as used in HO & OO ) but with a different sleeper /
tie spacing for those of us who are pure of heart ( or fanatics ), is
about 99.8% accurate for the 3 foot 6 inch gauge used in NZ, southern
Africa, Japan, parts of India and some states of Australia (WA, SA,
Queensland and Tasmania) and is known as Sn3.5 or Sn42 in inches.
I will one day finish my WAGR 4-6-0, G class when the house is
completed and I can set up my workshop in the shed.
Alan
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