OT - Blowlamp Repair Query

The pump plunger will be pushed up only if the leakage past the N/R valve is grater than that past the pump plunger. I would concentrate on the split plunger washer first. The only problem is that I haven't got the faintest idea where to get them. Over to others. Is the washer from the smaller blowlamp the same size? BTW, surely you're not O/T as the blowlamp is a part of your engines ignition (ha) system.

John

ISTR that one of my stirling engine books has destructions for making leather cup washers (I think it just involves tying a disc of well soaked leather around a former) I'll have look at lunch time and report back.

Blimey Arthur, you're a glutton for punishment. Its much easier to use a propane torch (with a decent sized burner) to start the engine than it is to mess about with recalcitrant blowlamps. I just keep mine for decoration.

If I can remember I'll have a look tonight and see if I hace a spare. What diameter is it? I wonder if a Tilley or Vapalux washer would do the job, I've got plenty of them.

Not only that but its probably carboned up inside anyway.

Indeed yes, and probably paraffin will squirt out past the pump rod and all over you :-))

Regards

Philip T-E

Arthur, I could let you have a disc of the right kind of leather should you need it. All I'd need is the OD when it was flattened out.

Then soak it in hot Vaseline until it will distort around the bottom washer enough to get it in the hole.

Done it several times restoring oil pumps on veteran bikes ;o))

That and leaks around the pump body where it screws into the main blowlamp base.

Is there a 'proper' shoe repair shop in the local village, if so the guy will have leather punches and can probably make you half a dozen for a quid. If not, let me have the dimensions and I'll get the guy who does our leather straps to cut you some, he's a proper leatherworker and has all the necessary tools and selection of leathers.

Yes, that's overlooked sometimes, you could solder it up and re-drill it, but might be better to try and get another jet for it, is there a size on the jet body?

Yes, that would be one manifestation.

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Engine pages for preservation info:

propane torch (with a decent sized burner) to start the engine than it is to

Got it in one Philip! For some perverse reason I like the ritual of s*dding about with the blowlamp.

I suppose it's the romance of being transported back in time, having to start the engine the original way. Yes, I know to be absolutely correct I should be using the Patent Cold Starting Cartridges, but I ain't got none of 'em, and they'm not making no more!

After all, it would be much easier to just polish the engine rather than start it, but not nearly as interesting!

Regards, Arthur G

Many thanks chaps, I'll measure the diameter of said leather tonight.

I'm glad we all know that we're talking about primus stoves here. I have found that a jubilee clip makes a good piston ring compressor for these sorts of seals. Are there different sorts of leather or just different treatments? I've never really read much about leathers myself. It sounds like a subject worthy of a quick Google.

John

Arthur, I was searching for something and came across this site for enthusiasts of old camping stoves. Apparently, there are a whole load of Martins out there. I assume that he already knows about this site but keeps it quiet. Try this link and follow a few sites off it.

Plenty of suggestions there Arthur, but just for the sake of completeness, Julian Wood of 'Sterling Stirling' advises - Make up a cylindrical former with a shallow circumferencial groove a short distance (1/2" or so) from one end. Soak and work leather until soft and pliable. Stretch soaked leather over end of former and tie into groove with wire. Allow to dry, remove and trim.

Different critters, different ways to split in when peeled, different tanning processes.

Like most things, always use vegetable tanned leather for pump washers, not chrome leather. Chrome leather is acidic and causes corrosion. Corrosion in a pump fills it with grinding paste, and it starts to leak.

-- Smert' spamionam

But it's also _easier_ to replace a semi-diesel with a nice little Honda two-stroke....

OK, this thread has stayed on topic for long enough!

Did you know that the SU carburettor was originated by the Skinner side of the Lilly and Skinner footwear business? Rather than the familier dashpot, the earliest versions had at their heart bellows made by Mrs. Skinner out of soft leather.

As with one voice they cried "yes, we knew that already"!

Yes, we knew that already:-)) SU = Skinners Union

Regards

Philip T-E

Smart a*** ;-)

How do I tell the difference Andy?

What is my local cobbler likely to use?

all feel free at this point to make 'cobblers' jokes!

Regards, Arthur G

So the original SU was more like a Stromberg then. Didn't know that.

John

"John Manders" wrote >

Guess so. I started my motoring career in sports imps which had Strombergs, but I must admit that I subsequently came to prefer the SU (dashpot version that is).

I've just looked in my 1910 (?) "Book of the Motor Car" by Rankin Kennedy. They're in there. 45° slant to the piston, semi-updraught design.