1:76 LNER A4 models



Once I lay my turnouts I run a circa 8" x 3" fine sharpening stone over them in a figure 8 pattern. 30 seconds of gentle movement is usually enough and the high spots show up very quickly. Frogs are the usual high point, especially plastic frogs. Comparing smoothness of running before and after is impressive.
Greg.P. NZ
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wrote:

Once again I didnt read what was written correctly. Older Hornby points - dump ASAP - alternately as Greg says file with something till level.
Cheers, Simon
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I might try that, if I can't get them to lie flat any other way. I thought of using a hair dryer or heat gun while gently bending the plastic sleepers.
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Martin S.

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wrote:

Not glued down ? If not then do so and leave heavy weight on top. If base not flat then glue to shim glued to base.
Cheers, Simon
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They are on flexible cork underlay, at the moment just pinned down.
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Martin S.

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wrote:

Be suprised if anyone suggested not gluing down, although if you want to replace Hornby points with Peco ones first they are much better.
Cheers, Simon
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I have old first-radius curved points in the fiddle yard.
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Martin S.

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Under those circumstances you _really_ need flat turnouts. Try not to sit on them in the car on the way home! ;-)
Greg.P.
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Ahh, now that's a different problem! At least MY Peco points have always been flat to start with. I pin them so that they sit where they should be while I ballast and glue them. The pins are then superfluous and get pulled out. If you're quick enough the pin holes in the plastic close up again. The remaining problem is that the frogs are usually not level with the running rails, so far they have always been high, so the sharpening stone treatment has always worked. Ditto for GF and several other brands.
Greg.P.
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From: "MartinS" Subject: Re: 1:76 LNER A4 models

1) Don't use Hornby points
2) Why not just file the frog slightly & reduce it's height.
John.
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1} Peco don't make the same ones; neither does Hornby anymore.
2) I could try that, but then I'd have filed frogs.
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wrote:

In my admitedly limited experience pinned track wont stay in same place forever. So you file it now and then it moves and requires further modification or replacement. So recon first glue it as flat as possible then see if filing required.
The best action however, is as said, for you to get rid of Hornby points, at the same time move up a radius so more engines can use the fiddle yard. Pin new track, play with it, glue new track, remove pins (if you want to).
Cheers, Simon
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Problem is, space is very tight, which is why I used 1st radius points. If I changed them, I'd have to completely relay the fiddle yard, maybe lose one siding, and they'd be shorter.
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wrote:

Understand, its a balence that only you can decide. Could a 3-way point help ?
Cheers, Simon
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Only if the 3 are all curved the same way!
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It's quite practical to trim turnouts considerably so that tracks can be closer. I have tracks at about 45mm spacing in my straight fiddle yard. Don't trim closer than two rigid sleepers to the points end (one past the spring pivot on Peco turnouts) I use a Dremel to cut fishplates to half length so that the sleeper rail fixings can remain in place. The shorter curve allows marginal locos to get through ie like a large radius turnout.
Greg.P.
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wrote:

Now thats a good idea !
Cheers, Simon
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I have six fiddle tracks at 48mm spacing (the width of a cork ballast strip) achieved through a combination of first and second radius curved points, to maximise the length of the straight storage tracks within the main oval on my 6' x 8' baseboard.
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I guess I do. Mine started to emit smoke from the cab. Found there was arcing from the frame to the commutator. Finally got so hot it melted.
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Funny thing is, none of ours burnt out. Every single casualty appears to have been the axles failing. They start to click while running, then the click becomes a clunk and finally a ludicrously loud bang before the bloody things stop running at all.
It's such a shame as the bodies are bloody good and compare well to photographs - I compared the Mainline J72 body [1] I have with the photos of the real engine in Vol. 43A of Yeadon's Register and I'm hard-pressed to find much difference.
I heard a rumour recently that Bachmann are planning on developing new chassis for all of their older LNER models. Not before time.
Notes:-
1. The one I'm planning to convert to a J71 using the Mainly Trains conversion kit I mentioned on this group a while back.
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