DCC

Nov 08, 2004 106 Replies

"Ken Wilson" wrote So why can't controller A send a message to Joe and then controller B talks to Bill? Is it because the message might get scrambled if they were both sent at about the same time? ie A sends an instruction but after the "hello, Joe" bit, B sends "Hello,Bill -...." and then the "increase speed to WF7" instruction would get read by Bill and not Joe.

Er Ken, I think some confusion may have crept in here. Handset (or master) A will talk to Joe, whilst B (Slave) talks to Bill, which will go via A... A talks to everyone. B can then change to Fred if it wants, but may be refused if Fred is already under the controll of A, unless the operator of A says yes they can have it... And vice versa for Joe going to A. It's just to avoid someone else taking control of a loco whilst anotehr operator is using it.

At the end of the day, you can control any loco from any handset, so going back to your original H&M and two knobs, yes, it is the same, but you can swap without changing controllers (i.e person A moving his hand onto Knob

2 - etc) and without changing the loco onto the other track\circuit.

With the DCC you can even bring in a third loco, (Fred) whilst controller B has left Bill circling the oval (a guess) on his own, so you could either give chase (if the oval is big enough) or shunt on a separate siding.

I hope this is clear and helps you put some of the confusions aside.

Michael Walker wrote:-

It was April 2002, the Class 33 Masterclass Issue. The article was intended as a guide for converting all models which use the generic 0-6-0 chassis and includes full instructions for programming and perfomance tables. I still have a copy in mint condition if anyone is interested but the postage will be considerable.

(kim)

Mark Thornton wrote:-

It's a ZTC-213 and has been left loose on long wires at the front end of the body.

(kim)

"Mark Thornton" wrote

There's always the bunker. I know at least one of my customers fitted an LE0511 there on a Hornby Terrier.

John.

It fits there in an N scale Thomas:

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Select "Links" from the left menu, then "DCC Info". Click on "Thomas the Tank Engine" under DCC Installations in the main window.

Or even use a small plug/socket between the vehicles. I intend to fit my Voyager up this way, as I don't want to go the full hog with day/night lights and decoders in each end vehicle. All I need is a three-pin socket per vehicle connection - headlights, tail-lights and common.

Now for a full HST...... that might be a case for a separate decoder.

Cheers, Mick

The message from "Mick Bryan" contains these words:

You'll never get it into the Tontine St. fiddle yard!

And DC is better value for money compared to DCC.

"Terry Flynn" wrote

That's a matter of opinion. I've just converted my loco stud and layout to DCC operation at a cost of around £250 in anticipation of a significant increase in operational scope and size. I reckon I've probably saved the 20 hours which it would have taken to wire, and all of the section switching and actual wire. Now in my book that doesn't suggest that DC would have been better value for money.

John.

I'm glad to see that you are now committed to DCC John. A couple of years ago you had yet to be convinced. I wonder how long it will take Terry.

Dave W.

What did you get for £250? Was that just decoders? Surely the controller alone would have cost that much????

Adrian

"Adrian" wrote

I used the Lenz Compact, LH30 handheld controller plus decoders, but remember I got them at trade price being a retailer.

John.

Is there a published specification for DCC so that those of us with tne necessary electronics and computing background could roll our own?

"Adrian" wrote

:-)

John.

Yes. Try the NMRA for the US standards

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or the MERG in the UK.

Some time with Google should reveal several DIY DCC systems, though some of the articles might be in German.

- Nigel

It'll never happen. He lacks the necessary skills. And cash. :-)

DC usually is cheaper. It cost me nothing extra to continue to use DC. My existing home made cab control system is cheaper than any DCC system with 3 controllers, and that is ignoring the cost of decoders. You had to wire the decoders into your locomotives, that took time. How much time will it take you to install signalling. If you want signals, it takes time to wire them in. With DC it's best to interlock signals to block selection from the start, the difference in time to wire this is minimal. I intend upgrading my DC cab control system to DC block control. The cost will be less than 250 pounds, typically 3 trains would operate, 5 is probably the absolute limit due to my layouts size. Wiring will be not much more than DCC with signalling. Operation of my layout will be closer to prototype than now. Price is not the only reason why I will stick with DC. With DC it can be easier to scratch build, trouble shoot and customise the system. I am in the process of testing my prototype block controller. One of these is needed for each block and costs about the same as the cheapest DCC decoders to build. It will have walk around controllers as well as layout mounted inertia controls. Cabling for the DC block control will consist as a 3 wire power buss (+,ground,-) , a 2 wire regulated supply and 2 signal wires between each block which is interlocks with signal indications. The hand controllers and inertia controllers use the 2 wire regulated supply. No computers or software. The system's train limit is purely a function of layout size.

A comment from the expert who a month ago did not know how to wire a turntable.

David Westerman wrote:-

A couple of weeks ago he was yet to be convinced :o)

(kim)

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