DCC

Terry Flynn wrote: >

Flogging that particular dead horse again, eh?

What exposed gearboxes?

Or are you confusing them with the exposed dust and cobwebs on your Korean stuff?

Reply to
Mark Newton
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I sought advice about a proprietary model I was unfamiliar with. How do you manage to distort that into me "pretending" to know how to wire a turntable???

Reply to
Mark Newton

Gotta recall, that the average non-toy North America model loco is still streets ahead of the average non-toy UK loco, you've got to wonder where the "exposed gearboxes" quote comes from.

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway (Site now back up and working)

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Reply to
Roger T.

I wonder where most of the crap he spouts comes from - his intra-cranial radio receiver, perhaps?

Reply to
Mark Newton

These days they all come from factories in Hong Kong and China - the same factories!

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Gregory Procter

So? It doesn't mean they're built to the same spec.

MBQ

Reply to
MBQ

I have the wiring diagram showing how I currently interlock my signals with cab selection. I intend within the next couple of weeks to have wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams of my manually switched block control system. Before publishing I will be conducting some more tests. Bench tests look good so far. It will also describe how to include memory walk around at minimal cost. controllers.

Reply to
Terry Flynn

Want to compare prices. I have many times on news groups and described how most things can be done using DC, sometimes better than DCC. Banking at the rear of trains is the only case were DC can be much harder to get working. Now you can get DC sound equipped models which have most of the DCC bells and whistles. I don't need the bells, neither do steam era UK modellers..

The DC case is sound, and I do operate both DCC and DC layouts on a regular basis. At least I know how to wire a turntable, DC or DCC unlike the expert Mark Newton.

Reply to
Terry Flynn

Mark Newton the expert again does not have an answer.

The Fleishman turntable can be wired this way. I had one wired this way and used it for DC and Command Control. No change for DCC required.

Not always. The Fleishman turntable does not change polarity if power is fed through the table.

That is correct for some of the tracks only. If you have sound equipped locomotives in a round house, not all should be making noise. Now there should be no why you cannot turn off the noise using a CV, however at the moment this does not seem an option on many sound decoders. Also it's a waste of power to keep all tracks live though it is an easy way with DCC. There is more than one way to wire your turntable. If it works for DC then it works for DCC. The fine tuning is more to with DC, not DCC.

Reply to
Terry Flynn

If you drive a loco on to the table, rotate the table and loco 180 degrees, and then turn your speed knob in the same direction, the loco will run back the way it came from and short the traction current as it rolls from bridge. You need the polarity change so that your controller makes the loco run in the normal track direction. Whether it's DC or DCC the short circuit is going to take place after (or before) a 180 degree rotation without polarity reversal.

Surely _all_ DCC tracks?

Wouldn't you just turn them off with the decoder?

Really? Ouch. =8^O

I'm still waiting for someone to tell me how one would turn them off in tunnels and staging yards, and how to reduce the volume as they move away from the foreground.

More boosters!!!! (in a Tim Taylor voice)

There aren't a lot of reasonable options!

- You need power to the bridge rails that matches the polarity of entry, exit and stall tracks.

- bridge live or dead during rotation.

- pitside tracks switched or non-switched. What did I miss?

Reply to
Gregory Procter

"MBQ" <

Bachmann's crap and Spectrum line are probably all made in the same factory.

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway (Site now back up and working)

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Reply to
Roger T.

Go ahead, waste your time. Don't forget to put a date on the comments. On small H0 locomotives a DCC decoder will decrease the mass of the locomotive, thus decreasing its performance as far as tractive effort goes. In the early days of DCC decoders were larger than now, and small decoders did not have back EMF. DCC has improved, now it can be as good as DC controllers. There are still some small prototypes, where in order to fit a decoder, visual compromises are required. The effort to fit decoders in these small locomotives is considerable. The only habitual liar is yourself. You lie about your employment, you lied about having a model railway, when all you had was some layout parts in storage. You continue to lie about your H0 US prototype models not having easy to see gearboxes. Heres a link to the evidence.

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should be able to see a gap under the third driving wheel.

Reply to
Terry Flynn

These ones

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better still
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Reply to
Terry Flynn

"Terry Flynn" <

"Exposed". My interpretation of this was gearboxes with the gears exposed.

As for the above, I think there should be a gap _above_ the third driver, not under it as that's where the rail goes.

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway (Site now back up and working)

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Reply to
Roger T.

"Terry Flynn"

I don't see any "exposed" gear box. However, I can (just) make out a visible one.

And, precisely, how would you go about hiding a gearbox on a model of a loco that was built with a cast steel frame?

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway (Site now back up and working)

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Reply to
Roger T.

Add a ring of gear teeth behind the wheel rim, tyre and flange and drive that with a small spur gear hidden in the fire box or other large detail. ;-)

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Gregory Procter

"Gregory Procter"

Good idea. However, then you truly would have an "exposed" gear drive that would pick up all the dirt and dust in sight.

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway (Site now back up and working)

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Reply to
Roger T.

Use coarse gears! ;-)

Scheme #2 use a rubber band belt drive between pulleys on the drive axle and one hidden in the firebox. The axle pulley need only be about 1/3rd of the driver diameter (if you don't use it for reduction) which will hide it within the diameter of the wheel hub and intersecting spokes. There's no need for a grove/flanges on the driving axle pulley as the corresponding pulley will be only a short distance away.

Scheme #3. Drive onto the flange of the driving wheels using rubber rollers. Scheme #4. Use an oscillating mechanical drive onto the piston rods inside the cylinders. Scheme #5. Use a miniature compressor and the model cylinders. Scheme #6. Some form of magnetic eddy drive to magnetized steel wheel rims. Scheme #7. Tender drive. (Nahh, that's getting jusy TOO weird)

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Gregory Procter

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> We should be able to see a gap under the third driving wheel.

Note I use the term gear box, not gears. Your right about the gap, must be something to do with the US models being upside down relative to down under, southern /northern hemisphere effect.

Reply to
Terry Flynn

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