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Fiddle Yard Under the Layout

I was wondering if anybody has done this before? I have been converting my loft to build a layout through last year and I am now ready to start detailed layout planning prior to making the baseboards (if I go that route). I had originally planned a fiddle yard on the same level as the layout then possibly build a high level terminus above the sidings. The problem I have is that 20 odd years ago I knocked down the chimney stacks to loft level and put in an aluminium flue. The remaining chimney sits on two substantial steel gallows brackets that encroach into the area I planned for the terminus. Now I was thinking of having the terminus on the same level as the rest of the layout. Being 4 to 6 inches lower I will have a little more space under the 2 chimney supporting brackets. I would then run a track down an incline at on end of the layout to sidings under the layout then up an incline at the other end to rejoin the main layout. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work, the incline shouldn't be too steep and it may make an interesting feature, especially if I get one on these motorised kits for the LU tube trains that you can get now.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Rayner
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Many years ago, I belonged to the Western MRS at Acton. We exhibited a layout of Haverfordwest, which used the same principal. The storage loops were on the opposite side of the oval from the station, set beneath rolling hills - the railway in it's environment. It gives you loads of free running - great with DCC I expect!

Give it a go, but make sure you can get your hands everywhere, to clean and also rerail that loco, caught on the worst bend!!

Good luck, Neal.

Reply to
Neal Ball

=> I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work, the incline shouldn't be =>too steep and it may make an interesting feature, especially if I get one on =>these motorised kits for the LU tube trains that you can get now. =>

=>Kevin =>

You will need 6" to 8" (15cm to 20cm) clear between track and overhead obstructions - to get your hands into when (not if) you have rerail, clean track, etc. The incline should not be steeper than 3% (3cm in 1metre, or 3/4" in 2ft). BTW, real railways use the term inlcine to refer to hills steep enough to require ropes or racks to work the trains. I'm sure you didn't envisage that. :-)

HTH

Wolf Kirchmeir ................................. If you didn't want to go to Chicago, why did you get on this train? (Garrison Keillor)

Reply to
Wolf Kirchmeir

Kevin,

Just make sure you can get good access to the fiddle yard - i.e. plenty of 'head' room so that you can reach over stock in front to get at stock behind. In 4mm you probably want about eight inches (200mm) between the underside of upper board and the top of the lower board. You refer to 4 - 6 inches difference in height, and that might not be enough, so consider raising the level of your upper boards if you can't get the lower boards any lower.

This will also affect your gradients - you want them to be at least 1 in 30, and preferably something like 1 in 50 and less steep if you've got curves on the inclines.

Jim.

Reply to
Jim Guthrie

It's cheaper to buy the Tenshodo SPUD and do the conversion yourself. You'll need 2 x WB245 for a 4-car train @ £20.95 each from Holt Model Railways. I replaced the other wheelsets with Romford 10.5mm.

Reply to
MartinS

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