Fixing inaccurate models

So what have you done in this respect, here are some of my more extreme
So far
Lima 50 chopped up bogies and fitted white metal frames, bogie is 50%
original, 20% brass sheet & tubing, 20% filler (I think it was Plastic
Padding) 5% Araldite 5% Lima gears from spares in a shop.
The other 50 needs similar attention - I will be making a new chassis one
Hornby Flying Scotsman, correct height, wire handrails, daylight under
boiler, 5 pole motor.
Horby 47 bought as a bodged wreck - drilled out bogies, sides smoothed,
flush glazing, now 47513 Severn, looks fine next to my Heljan one.
Lima BR1 - mainly fitted with correct size wheels - ride height changed and
smaller coupling fitted
Lima B4 - couplings fitted to other end of bogie and recessed for closer
Lima CCT - proper diameter wheels and converted to compensation
Triang Hornby Thompson - Scratch chassis and bogies to look like a Bachman
model, original Mk1 chassis shortened to 57' and fitted with etched BG sides
and an ally roof.
Airfix 2D TSO converted to 2E by moving toilets, screwed one up doing it the
wrong way - that had three swaps done!!!! Half of my fleet are 2E, so much
better models than Lima 2Fs.
(I have enough aircons for two sets)
Will not mention converting Airfix minerals into MCV and MXV
As I replace my Lima BGs I am turning them into restaurants. My Bachman one
got fitted with B4s to go with Mk2 stock.
E1883 is currently in the works!!
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"Martin" wrote
Currently sawing apart two Triang Trestrol ECs to make them full length. Someone here mentioned their being "a few millimetres too short": in fact they're a whopping scale EIGHT FEET out (= 32mm), but wholly across the well, the ends are perfect, almost as if Triang made them upgrade-ready. So the side and centre girders have been sawn back to the joining plate (which is nicely detailed), something necessary for one of them anyway as it was the green "helicopter launcher" version so had a flush-top centre plate moulded down the middle - the other is the original grey R242 with ribs and is not bad apart from the length: even the number is correct. New centre beam (Plastruct) and floor (Plastikard) installed, next will be the side beams once I've worked out how to do the unmissable banks of rib rivets - if a spike won't do it through the thick plastic it'll be either drilled holes with plastic rod, or an overlay of rivet-stamped plastic or paper. Then bracing ribs, overlays of rivet plate (paper) right along the tops of all three beams, and new cast springs on the bogies to replace the weedy moulded ones. The axle boxes are fine. Oh, and 3' disc wheels, and etched brake handwheels and shackle couplings and a bit of brake rodding, and transfer lettering and numbers. And then the trestles with chained-down steel plate loads. And weathering.
But they will look very beefy when done!
Then there's the Triang GWR Dia.N16 horse box - great body, dubious roof detail, pants underframe. That'll be a scratchbuild with cast axleboxes, compensated brass W-irons and Mansell wheels plus Ratio coach bits.
Oh, and I'm trying to build a Class 128 GRCW parcels unit out of two Hornby 110 DMU centre coach mouldings. The body ends and windows are pretty near to the Gloucester gangwayed cab, just that one moulding would be about 6' underscale so it's cut and paste, before cutting the doors and filling the windows flush (Plasticard). Then there's titivation of a box of tatty Airfix Prestwins, trying to get that mesh walkway just so. Not so much correcting inaccuracy there as finescaling what's not a bad moulding.
You may gather I'm a freight rather than passenger man!
Tony Clarke
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Tony Clarke

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