Just got my Hornby trains out of storage for my grandchildren BUT the
trains seem very juddery on the track as thought the power is not
getting through properly.
CAN track deteriorate with age.
They have been in paper for about 10 - 20 years
Twenty years ago Hornby track was made from steel and was not terribly
reliable for transmitting power. In more recent years the rail has been of
I'd suggest cleaning both the rail surface and the loco driving wheels and
applying some very light (sewing machine) oil to the motor bearings. Try
powering the motor brushes and seeing how well the loco(s) run off the track
and if all is satisfactory try them on the cleaned track.
Thanks for reply John
I said about 10 - 20 years BUT thinking on, it could be older.
Do you suggest buying all new track and starting again, as I tried
cleaning track with spirit but not a lot of improvement.
for reply please omit nospam
In message , John Turner
Privacy wrote in
Try using a rubber (pencil eraser) on the track, a lot of gunge won't come
off without a good hard rub. Don't use sandpaper or a file or anything of
that nature as that will damage the surface of the track and ultimately
make things worse.
If you have a small brass brush use that to clean the wheels on your
engines, failing that back to the rubber. Also look at your engines to see
where the pick-ups are (where the electricity is transferred from the
wheels to the motor), they look like very thin reddish/bronzy strips of
springy metal. Make sure that they are clean as well.
As John suggests (who knows a lot more than me) lightly oil the motor
barings - but be very sparing, you might also want to lightly oil the wheel
barings and any linkages to any coupling rods - again be very sparing.
My guess is that you just need to give everything a good clean and you'll
be away. When your engines are running let them do a good few laps at a
constant speed to let them run in again and any addded lubrication
Don't worry if the track is steel and not nickel silver, it'll be fine
after a good clean.
"John Turner" wrote in
I don't know I picked some up quite cheep a year or two ago and apart from
teh stuff I soaked in water (more fool me!) it's been fine, I've even
salvaged some to use in my new layout ... admittedly the salvaged stuff is
being used onteh staging area but it still works fine.
Likewise having spoken with a few finescale and P4 chaps they swear by it,
but in their case it's more a case of wanting it for the colour (silver
topped) rather than the yellows clolour of nickel silver.
Fishplates work loose with age. Replacing them with brand new fishplates is
a cheaper alteranative to replacing entire track sections. Beware that
running very old Triang-Hornby Code-140 stock on new Code-100 rails will
cause the flanges to bump up and down on the sleeper chairs with an
accompanying display of blue sparks and a strong smell of ozone. A bit like
southern region DMU's really :o)
A problem I had with my A1A-A1A diesel was that the auxiliary electrical
pickups to the second bogie had become detached, causing intermittent power
loss when running over bad joints. A quick dab with a soldering iron should