I wonder if someone can help me; and I know this is a particularly simple question, but to lay parallel tracks, and to keep the spacing between them fixed through a bend, should I use a larger radius (say
3rd) on the outermost track, and a smaller (2nd for arguments sake) on the inner. Or should both be the same radius but have less straights in the approach and exit of the inner track??
The radius should be larger on the outermost track. If you use set-track, laid correctly, the ends of straights leading into the "corner" should be level with oneanother. For more realistic curves though, it's always better to use flexi-track so that you can smooth the transitions into and out of a bend. In that case, you need either a "good eye" ore a track-setting guage (Peco make them I believe).
Also, be aware that some stock (particularly the newer, more accurate locomotives) may struggle on tighter radii, so always make the curves as gentle as you can acommodate.
First of all, both Hornby and Bachmann say that all of their stock will go round second-radius curves.
Secondly, transition curves are not laid to a constant radius, but are on a constantly changing radius from infinity (straight) to the radius of the main curve, so one of them tracksetting gauges won't work for the transition, although it will do for the main curve.
If you are using flexible track, Peco do a double-track spacing gauge that makes paralleling tracks easy.
Just a follow-up question here - when using flexible track for curves, I've never found a way to avoid getting 'kinks' at the joins.
This is where the fishplates are not strong enough to keep a straight join between one section of track and the next, when the rest of the track is bent round into a curve.
Dead easy, join two pieces of flexi-track on the straight using conventional joiners and finally solder the joints solid. Then use as a single piece of track easing slowly and gently into the required curve.
Yup, agree with John. That's the best way for smooth track on a curve. Just make sure the track is dead straight when joined - either use a steel rule straight edge, or sight along it at track level and pin it temporarily when you can see no kink.
As far as the track spacing issue goes, not sure of the clearances in 4mm scale, but in 3.5mm scale I have made two parallel track spacers, one with a track centre to track centre spacing of 2" for straights and another with 2
3/16" for curves. They were made out of scrap syrene, but you can use just about anything. Trick here is to lay the inner curve first, but don't start the larger track spacing until you're into the curve about 9" - 12". Let the flex track find its own curve back to the 2" spacing on the straights. Now I might add that these suit a minimum radius of 30", not sure how they'd work in lesser radii. Anybody have any experience here?
I saw an tip on "MODEL TOWN" (Saturdays and Sundays 0900 and 1900 on Discovery Real Time Extra (SKY 135)) that I have tried and found it very good.
Slide one rail of your flexitrack through the sleepers until it is about halfway along the length and cut off the chairs of the nearest sleeper and add a fishplate, do the same to the next piece of felxitrack. Now slide one of the rails that are left sticking out of the flexitrack through the chairs in the sleepers left by the moving of the previous piece and fit both rails into the fishplates If this is now of sufficient length cut of the excess rail that is still sticking out and slide it through the chairs of the first piece of track. If not sufficient, keep on with the process until you have the legnth you require.
You now have a length of track with no joints opposite each other and no requirement for soldering. You will find that the track forms nice smooth curves with no weak points.
Well, Eddie, I agree your method does produce a mechanically adequate joint, but electrically it's dubious. Fishplates are not reliable elctrical conductors in the long run. So, either solder all the joints in an electrical blcok, or solder a feeder wire to each rail section.
"Nikki Bray" wrote in news:awEif.86920$ snipped-for-privacy@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk:
I hear a lot about all this soldering track business, surely expansion/contraction due to changes in temperature are going to play merry hell with any track so laid?
In my case it's never proved to be an issue, but Summer tends to be my quiet time, and is the time I do most of my track-laying - so expansion is already built in, so to speak, and my railway room is centrally heated so there is little risk of contraction in the Summer.
"John Turner" wrote in news:dmfdnq$d6j$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreaderm2.core.theplanet.net:
...
... and pre-tensioned track in the winter. :-)
All right for some ;-)
I'm in an uninsulated garage with leaves blowing in under the door - although I don't have the temp range of Jane it still swings about a fair bit.
Seriously though, the longer the continuous rail the larger the displacement (per rail) so whilst a change of only a coulple of degrees wouldn't have much significant effect on yard lengths with tiny gaps would I'm sure serve to distort longer lengths ... still you haven't had any problems so I bow to your experiance.
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