Laying Parrallel Tracks

The radius should be larger on the outermost track. If you use set-track, laid correctly, the ends of straights leading into the "corner" should be level with oneanother. For more realistic curves though, it's always better to use flexi-track so that you can smooth the transitions into and out of a bend. In that case, you need either a "good eye" ore a track-setting guage (Peco make them I believe).

Also, be aware that some stock (particularly the newer, more accurate locomotives) may struggle on tighter radii, so always make the curves as gentle as you can acommodate.

Adrian

The former.

In message , Adrian B writes

First of all, both Hornby and Bachmann say that all of their stock will go round second-radius curves.

Secondly, transition curves are not laid to a constant radius, but are on a constantly changing radius from infinity (straight) to the radius of the main curve, so one of them tracksetting gauges won't work for the transition, although it will do for the main curve.

If you are using flexible track, Peco do a double-track spacing gauge that makes paralleling tracks easy.

Except on curves together . I used it to lay my track and coaches hit each other if they meet in the curves (which are 3rd and 4th) Rob

Just a follow-up question here - when using flexible track for curves, I've never found a way to avoid getting 'kinks' at the joins.

This is where the fishplates are not strong enough to keep a straight join between one section of track and the next, when the rest of the track is bent round into a curve.

Any tips?

(ab)

"ab" wrote

Dead easy, join two pieces of flexi-track on the straight using conventional joiners and finally solder the joints solid. Then use as a single piece of track easing slowly and gently into the required curve.

John.

Yup, agree with John. That's the best way for smooth track on a curve. Just make sure the track is dead straight when joined - either use a steel rule straight edge, or sight along it at track level and pin it temporarily when you can see no kink.

As far as the track spacing issue goes, not sure of the clearances in 4mm scale, but in 3.5mm scale I have made two parallel track spacers, one with a track centre to track centre spacing of 2" for straights and another with 2

Steve Newcastle NSW Aust

I use a curved tracksetta between the joints on curves, glue down, add weight, have a few beers, return next evening..........

"Rob Kemp" wrote

A couple of beers and even the couple of dykes in my local look straight, well not straight enough mind! ;-)

John.

In message , Rob Kemp writes

Doesn't happen on my layout. Minimum radius is 3 ft. 6 in.

Could this be becasue one of you is using the less broad Streamline spacing, and the other using the wider setrack spacing?

Graham

In message , Graham Kendall writes

Not me, guv. I'm using the less broad Streamline spacing, and making absolutely no allowances for curves.

Hi,

I saw an tip on "MODEL TOWN" (Saturdays and Sundays 0900 and 1900 on Discovery Real Time Extra (SKY 135)) that I have tried and found it very good.

Slide one rail of your flexitrack through the sleepers until it is about halfway along the length and cut off the chairs of the nearest sleeper and add a fishplate, do the same to the next piece of felxitrack. Now slide one of the rails that are left sticking out of the flexitrack through the chairs in the sleepers left by the moving of the previous piece and fit both rails into the fishplates If this is now of sufficient length cut of the excess rail that is still sticking out and slide it through the chairs of the first piece of track. If not sufficient, keep on with the process until you have the legnth you require.

You now have a length of track with no joints opposite each other and no requirement for soldering. You will find that the track forms nice smooth curves with no weak points.

Hope this helps.

Eddie.

Well, Eddie, I agree your method does produce a mechanically adequate joint, but electrically it's dubious. Fishplates are not reliable elctrical conductors in the long run. So, either solder all the joints in an electrical blcok, or solder a feeder wire to each rail section.

HTH

Hi Wolf,

Just as an aside, >> Hi,

"Nikki Bray" wrote in news:awEif.86920$ snipped-for-privacy@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

I hear a lot about all this soldering track business, surely expansion/contraction due to changes in temperature are going to play merry hell with any track so laid?

"Chris Wilson" wrote

Hi Chris -

In my case it's never proved to be an issue, but Summer tends to be my quiet time, and is the time I do most of my track-laying - so expansion is already built in, so to speak, and my railway room is centrally heated so there is little risk of contraction in the Summer.

John.

In message , John Turner writes

However, my layout is in the garden, where temperatures can range from

-5 to +40, with consequent expansion. So I do not solder my fishplates to the rail, and definitely do not rely on them for electrical conductivity.

"John Turner" wrote in news:dmfdnq$d6j$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreaderm2.core.theplanet.net:

...

... and pre-tensioned track in the winter. :-)

All right for some ;-)

I'm in an uninsulated garage with leaves blowing in under the door - although I don't have the temp range of Jane it still swings about a fair bit.

Seriously though, the longer the continuous rail the larger the displacement (per rail) so whilst a change of only a coulple of degrees wouldn't have much significant effect on yard lengths with tiny gaps would I'm sure serve to distort longer lengths ... still you haven't had any problems so I bow to your experiance.