Model Rail - Gem Kit

simon wrote:


Blimey - is that series still dragging on? Has he got the chassis running yet?
I certainly wouldn't superglue a whitemetal body together. I'm sure some people might get it to work, but me and superglue never get on! I think in your position I would use epoxy resin, preferably the slow setting type. I find that 5 minute Araldite doesn't set rock hard unlike some of the slower epoxies. You don't need great gobs of epoxy, just the same amount as if you were using a contact adhesive.
Of course, soldering is the best option, but if you're not confident then you really need a temperature controlled iron. Apart from anything else, overheating 70 degree lowmelt solder can release some nasty substances.
--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.me.uk /
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he did push it along the track before fitting the motor to check for tight spots - does that count ?

I tried rapid epoxy but it just didnt set properly, so switched to normal slow one. Found could put on then over the next couple of hours get it to stick pieces correctly. Would then leave for few more before doing next bit. Think author chose superglue so could finish in an evening.

One day will get one, but till then will carry on with epoxy - hopefully it will be fine for whitemetal to brass - will it ?
Cheers, Simon
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simon wrote:

For sheet brass, it's best to key it before sticking things to it - just use a bit of coarse wet/dry to rough the surface. Castings are OK.
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Paul Boyd
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That will save some effort thanks.
cheers, Simon
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Yes! I tried just to see how it would work, on an old Ks kit I didn't want. Everything went together quite well, BUT, it didn't stay together! Major bits fell apart while I was scrubbing in in warm water before painting.
The experiment was carried out because someone brought me a s/h assembled kit he'd bought cheaply because details kept falling off. Superglue won't fill the gaps between whitemetal parts and it won't withstand the changes in dimensions of whitemetal at the normal range of temperatures. (superglue with fillers doesn't change in size parallel with whitemetal) Brass needs the surface keyed and even drilled for gluing.
Greg.P.
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wrote:

Good test - dont even use it for add on bits ! So who is going write to Model Rail and comment on the wisdom of their recommendation ?
cheers, Simon
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Final installment in this months issue, finishes off with painting. Insists an airbrush or aerosol must be used, brush painting just cant be good enough. Would have accepted statement if qualified with for him or other version.
'fraid I disagree here, accept airbrush etc should give better finish and required for museum/cabinet quality, but for a running layout model then brush painting is fine for me.
Cheers, Simon
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I never achieved the finish using brushes that I have with either airbrush or even aerosols! I have used brushes to paint on patches where I've wanted the effect of painted on patches and also for lining and lettering.
Regards, Greg.P.
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wrote:

Accept that finish is different, but point is that brush painting can achieve a good enough finish esp if then going on to weather a model. sometimes think airbrushed weathering is too consistent so although looks nice its a bit twee.
Cheers, Simon
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"simon" wrote

It was good enough for the real railways.
I've produced extremely satisfactory results by brushing and finishing with an aerosol varnish.
John.
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John Turner wrote:

OK, now paint your loco with a "scale" brush and you might quickly see why it works for the real but not so well for the model.
Krypsis

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Plus Iain Rice says its fine to brush paint.
Cheers, Simon
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simon wrote:

And he says if I don't use brushes I'm only gonna be good enough to model Accrington station?
--
Arthur Figgis Surrey, UK

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you'll have to give us a clue or reference for that I'm afraid.
Cheers, Simon
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Never tried an aerosol varnish, just use an artists acrylic one.
Cheers, Simon
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"simon" wrote

I use Railmatch satin or matt (depending upon the finish I wish to achieve). It effectively masks any brush marks.
I have to say in recent years I've only painted wagons using this method, and anyone who has seen them always asks if they're airbrushed.
John.
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thanks, will give that a try.
airbrushing wouldnt have helped with latest kit build, made a complete pigs ear of number transfers. Usually have no problem lining them up level and reasonably spaced but these were all over the shop and had to remove a few and redo as well as repaint number sized patch. Suspect its cos theyre gold with black shading on black surface. Had great difficulty seeing exact outline of numbers - wonder if waterslide available ?
Cheers, Simon
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