I am looking to start building a loco or two (OO gauge) and would like to get a chassis jig so I can't blame not having a jig when the loco won't run
What jigs are out here and where would one acquire such a jig?
Ta, Paul.
The Scalefour e-group have been singing the praises of "Master Chassis". I don't think its cheap (£100 mentioned), but looks to do all the alignment with a very high degree of accuracy.
That said, I've had no problem building well designed loco kits to P4 standards without any serious jigs; just a few bits of long straight round bar, a flat worktop, and a decent engineer's square. A good design includes numerous self-alignment features; box sections, etc. to ensure that all is square and true.
- Nigel
I have the Master chassis jig with the parts for it to be suitable for 7mm and 4mm chassis. Plus the rolling road element. Cost over £150 but it is very good. If you are only going to build a couple of locos, it is not for you. Your best bet is to get some long bar the same diameter as your axles and have the ends turned down to match your crank pin bushes. Get a piece of plate glass, some flat bar (folding bars are fine), a square and all your chassis should be fine.
I had found that - I always find it ominous when prices are not mentioned:
7mm 3 axle £140 7mm 5 axle £1754mm 3 axle £150
4mm 5 axle £195apparently that includes a rolling road and such like, but a touch more than I was hoping to spend!
The difficulty for a newbie like me is identifying which kits are well designed...
Many thanks for he input, much appreciated.
P.
On the whole, start with the ones designed for P4 from the outset :-), and see if they can be built in OO as well. If you can see the instructions before hand, that helps.
It depends what you want to build; for example, High Level are superb, but are mostly small industrial prototypes. I've built several, and have a few sitting in boxes waiting for their time on the bench. From comments elsewhere, Judith Edge seems pretty good (mostly diesel shunters), though I've not tried any of their 4mm stuff.
There are numerous other makers, ask around at either P4 or EM meetings, they tend to have loco builders who will make comments about the less well designed items.
- Nigel
Ta for the tip.
Industrial is good for me In fact I have just had a look at their web site. I think I may be sending you a bill for half of what I spend there I like the Lanky battery loco! The Neilson mineral engine is rather nice too. as for the flyshunter to get a little wagon or two moving around a coliery...
From your comment, I suspect I may not need to enquire about the kits, the opinions being freely, fully and frankly aired?
I'll agree with MudPuppet here! I've built numerous locos over 40+ years. I use:
- a heavy piece of mirror glass (you can see it's flat.
- engineers square.
- long lengths of drill rod of diameter equal to the axles.
- 1/2" square brass bars (2x)
What the builder needs to achieve is:
1: axles parallel to each other, 2: axles at right angles to the frame, 3: axles horizontal, 4: axles in vertical alignment. The chassis needs to be straight, which if it is properly manufactured will follow from #2 and #3.Sit the loosely assembled chassis/frame on the extended axle rods which then sit on the 1/2" brass bars on the mirror glass. Ensure the bars are parallel and at right angles to the direction of travel and then start soldering - solder - check alignment - solder - check ... etc. I've never had a failure.
I guess getting some axle diameter rod turned tapered at the ends to crank-pin diameter would be very useful. Don't try to fudge axle alignment or coupling rod lengths!
Greg.P.
The Lanky battery is fairly easy to assemble (at least from the instructions and bits, mine not yet started). However, not typical of the problems you'll face with most locos as it lacks cranks/connecting rods/valve gear. Paul Boyd (who posts here) has built one and you'll find pictures on his website.
The Armstrong has a clever trick to make the jackshaft run without difficulty (I have one awaiting paint), and a neat simple compensation system (you might find it worth doing compensation for the experience, even in OO). The prototype is at Shildon museum.
Nice model, though forming the tank shape is reported to be quite hard work; suggest you pick a different one for first time builds ? The GER version is on my "to do" list; I have bought the wheels !
The little Hudswell Clarke Coronation is a lot easier, and a very well proportioned loco when finished. You can go to town on the cab details with every pipe if you wish (I did). I built my own hornblocks and guides for this one, but probably will just use High Level's own in future. For OO it can be done rigid and should be fine.
Don't forget his chassis kits, particularly the Pug if you like little locos.
When I've asked straight questions of other modellers about particular kits, I received straight answers. Its sometimes necessary to get a bit of context; find out what they think is a good kit and why, what they have built (eg. if someone has built nothing, then chances are they have no experience..).
There are a lot of bad kits still being marketed; bits which just don't fit, excessive amounts of "fettling" necessary to get them to work, fitted with ancient motor designs and inappropriate gearing. For about the same money there are kits which use appropriate materials, just "drop together" and run beautifully if you follow the instructions.
- Nigel
Ta - look interesting.
Isn't that a diesel?
I was not seriously considering it! It does look like my kind of loco, but that bending is for when I have a few under my belt!
Again, the sort of little loco I like!
I am familiar with armchair experts from my day job. I sometimes play with them...
I suppose the fun is figuring out which is which.
I have dropped hints about the DJH Andrew Barclay for christmas - it looks a reasonable starter...
Thank to both of you for the advice. much appreciated.
P.
another good starter is the white metal kit selection from GEM.
Used the comet chassis jig - fairly complex assembly of 2 cylinders and 2 screws. Cost £5.00.
Picked up an almost completed white metal kit - Millholme models 'Goldcast' LMS 2P. Has all bits in except motor. Cost £30. I'm happy with it. Cant see if the company is still around - newspaper packing is dated 1981 - anyone know ?
Cheers, Simon
I find that almost any maker who does 100% whitemetal to be well below current state of art. Composite construction - a mixture of etch, cast brass, cast whitemetal, cast resin - gives a much better result.
However, as I've not attempted anything from GEM for over 25 years, it would be unfair to pass comments on that model as applicable now.
Solder construction of sheet metal is easy *if* you get a few correct materials and read a few notes on what to do. The booklet from Carrs is as good as any if you're starting from no knowledge.
Should help, and would probably cost at least £5 in time to make ones own.
- Nigel
Paul,
Another thing to consider is that if you have springing or compensation on your chassis, then there is no requirement to get the vertical alighnment of your axles exact. But you still have to get the horizontal aligment correct if you are using coupling rods, but that should be marked off from the coupling rods.
Jim.
etched chassis as well as replace some whitemetal components with some from the etch. have even used the odd bit of scrap brass myself cos the whitemetal looked a bit coarse - then found the etch replacement ....
However they are easy to make and do result in nice running locos. Especially useful supply of pre-big four examples.
Am looking at moving to London Road models next - they seem to be more of the mix you describe.
A useful tip that only applies till XMAS is to purchase gears and motor from Branchlines - tell him what your doing and he can help you avoid unsuitable combinations. Whoever takes over that company should insist Andrew remains available until I get a bit more competent - say 25 years.
Cheers, Simon
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