N gauge couplers

I have been offered the chance to buy some British outline N gauge stuff
for next to nothing. There are a couple of Farish steam locos and about
a dozen Peco wagons. I am an Australian outline stock in N, but this
offer is really too good to pass up. And you can make a small British
branch line terminus in as little as 3' x 6".
The problem is the couplers. We all know the Rapido type look terrible
and the uncoupling ramps are just as bad. But Microtrains couplers don't
look right on a British steam loco either.
I have seen screw/link type couplers in N but they require a very over
scale shunter's pole (i.e. tweezers) to operate. I've looked on the 2mm
Scale Association web site but they don't say anything about couplers -
some (but not all) of the models use what looks like a scaled down
European style hook and loop coupler.
Any suggestions?
Cheers
David
Reply to
David Bromage
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The Mike Bryant coupler is a tension lock type but upside down, the coupligs are positioned over a magnet on the track (this can be an electromagnet or you can buy small sticky backed magnets to lay on the sleepers), a steel pin on the coupling is pulled down and releases the coupling. Reliable but you get them as a flat etch you need to fold up yourself (I used these in the early 1980's and found them fine, after making the first twenty or so I was loosing about one in fifty due to cocking up the folding). They are available from the N Gauge Society membership of which I would strongly recommend.
There are other types but I havent tried any of them so cannot comment. As I had some long rakes (coal wagons and the like) so I fitted MBM's to the end wagons, the couplings in the rest of the rake were secured with a loop of fishing line secured with (if I remember) Evostick to form fixed rakes.
There is a three link brass coupling available which works with a small magnet on a stick. This represents a screw coupling. I have seen a web site for it but cannot remember the details. You lower the magnet, the coupling lifts, position the wagon and raise the magnet allowing the coupling to fall onto the hook. Looks great but I havent tried it.
Do not use minimum radius curves, I find Farish steamers with pony wheels tend to dislike these, Lay the track carefully, Farish still use rigid chassis and have no springing in the axles so they tend to stall a lot on uneven track. If you fancy the UK outline go diesel as the bogies on diesels 'float' a bit (also you can get much better continetal or japanese mechanisms to put in the engines).
Good luck
Reply to
Mike
(similar reply also sent by email)
You didn't dig deep enough :-)
Products section, shop 2, then DG Couplings :-)
btw. I see another poster recommending the MBM coupling. I would avoid. Its an obselete design which lacks the delayed uncoupling features of more modern designs, such as the DG (and also Microtrains/Kadee). Its fine for those already heavily invested in MBM, but if starting out, pick something else.
Another option, though not ideal for UK use, is the MFK coupler which looks like a prototype screw coupler, but is operated by a hand-held magnet above the trains. The problems with UK stock is that the loop section is too short; it would seem that typical European buffers are longer than UK ones, so the loop is necessarily longer. Link via the "links" page on the 2mm website.
- Nigel
Reply to
NC
Ooops... I meant loop is too long, so UK wagons are too far apart.
Reply to
NC
can you suggest a supplier for these mechs?
Reply to
UncleWobbly
Sorry, not in the UK, I had a couple of Grafar's running on (I think) Japanese chassis when I lived in the US some years ago - I think Green Max do one that'll fit a Class 25 but I couldnt be certain - These days I have been mainly playing with mid 1920's light railways so I can use the rather better running continental chassis with an anglicised body. I'll root through my notes though, I seem to remember getting the bogie wheelbase and spacing details for a load of US and Japanese chassis in the later 1980's, assuming they were accurate to prototype the more modern chassis should still fit a Grafar body (you do have to change the bogie side frames over, well you should, I didn't bother myself).
Reply to
Mike
For Japanese and Continental in N Gauge, you could try M.G. Sharp Models in Sheffield. Their website is at
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Cheers Clive
Reply to
Clive Summerfield
many thanks
Reply to
UncleWobbly

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