Plate Girder Bridge - pictures wanted

Did you mean 'Ferodo', the tyre manufacturer?

The bridge carrying the main line over the London Road was for a long time next to a garage so the bridge was used to advertise their products.

(kim)

Reply to
kim
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Probably Humbrol Maskol. Paint the item with a overall rust colour when dry apply small areas of maskol then overspray with top colour. When dry gently rub the maskol which will "ball-up" and come off exposing the rust below. Then apply a light coat of weathering using your favourate technique.

Suggest you try it on some scrap plasticard first to get the idea of the amount of maskol to apply.

Reply to
Rich

"What's the best way to Oldham?" "One in each 'and."

(Ken Dodd, circa 1963)

Reply to
MartinS

That's the one, though I thought they made brake and clutch linings rather than tyres. I certainly remember walking under it on the way to a friend's place (Bray's Lane rings a sort of bell) back in the early-mid 1970s Brian

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Reply to
BH Williams

The message from "kim" contains these words:

IIRC Ferodo make brake linings...

Reply to
David Jackson

Will do, got some of that. Also found a product called 'Instant Rust' on a US based art site. You paint on the 'iron' first, wait a bit then paint over some other substance (included in kit) and it turns into 'rust'. Apparently has very fine iron filings in the 'iron' bit.

When it arrives will test it and report back - unless you don't give a toss ;-)

Cheers Mal

Reply to
Draconus

"Chris Wilson" wrote

Are you sure it's black? I note what you say about fading, but looking at some bridges close up suggests to me that the colour was a dark elephant grey with slight metallic sparkle as of some mineral being added to toughen the surface. Newly painted bridges and old ones alike (such as the disused bowstring bridge at Yarmouth which I was photographing on Saturday) seem to be the same grey, and even if it were nearer black, allowing for scale colour effect it ought to be rendered as weathered grey in model sizes. (The coating definitely seems to be a paint rather than a plain tar/bitumen),

And the inside of the girders near the track will be browned to track colour by spray from the wheels.

The fashionable colour scheme of NR these days seems to be two-tone green. Spinach and eau-de-nil, yum. Modern synthetic weatherproof paints seem relatively immune to fade so you're not restricted to all those stable dull lead-based colours of yesteryear.

One the subject of model girder bridges generally, I find that most of them look unsatisfactory and study of prototypes is necessary, especially underneath. Most of the models look insufficiently butch for the purpose, even allowing for speed restrictions over them. An egregious offender is the Airfix/Dapol girder bridge which is neatly done but in terms of its girder struts seems more suitable as a road bridge over a river - even as a single track it looks like it ought to be beefed up with internal diagonal struts, or two bridges cut about to make a double layer. The base plate is also hopeless, seeming to be little more than plate steel in appearance - and with those strength-sapping gaps along the centre line! - whereas there would be steel beams and lattices below the track to provide 3D bracing against bending and axle loading. The Peco plate girders are better, but you still need to make a properly braced underframe, as well as having a plate girder between the tracks instead of just as an outer coaming.

Tony Clarke

Reply to
Tony Clarke

Here is a black one

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a very rusty one

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a grey one

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a rusty and grey one

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could be light green (hard to tell)

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grey

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the colour I prefer on The Bridge

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Bridges tended to be painted in battleship grey for a period of time. Bear in mind that there will normally be between 20 to 25 years at least between paint cycles. I know of bridges painted blue or silver with the webs picked out in the silver colour. Nowadays Local Planning Departments are often given a chance to influence the colour to fit in with Street scape colour schemes. Generally the colour of choice will be one which does not allow detrimental colouration due to rusting.

Go for Forth Bridge red.

Reply to
Bob

"Tony Clarke" wrote in news:e6kfdo$f64$ snipped-for-privacy@gemini.csx.cam.ac.uk:

...

Yup, I've already been hauled over the coals for that one, apparently outside of Lancashire and other similar places where quality counted (*) they used a cheap grey paint with mica flakes in it Rather than a last (nearly) forever bitumen based paint, I've lost the post now but a chap very helpfully responded IIRC that he actually used to make the paint and apparently the grey stuff is favoured over the black stuff as it can be sprayed on whereas the bituminous stuff has to be painted.

(* Just a little friendly snipe at Yorkshire :-) ...

I used an Airfix turntable as a basis for a bridge on my last layout, keeping the deck and upper works I used some girder section rod to build up the undernieth and even if I say so myself it looked quite good. Advertising hoarding stuck on the side. Worked well it was for an industial line so the over all size worked well.

Reply to
Chris Wilson

That were me, Chris.... The micaceaous (sp?) stuff was anything but cheap, otherwise I'd have used it to paint my wheelbarrow- it was also very heavy relative to the other 5 litre tins we used to handle. Brian

Reply to
BH Williams

Is that the same shade as the Golden Gate Bridge between San Francisco and Marin County?

That was red lead originally, but health regs put the kaibosh on it, but because it was historic landmark they wanted the same colour and eventually found a latex paint of the same colour.

Reply to
Christopher A. Lee

"BH Williams" wrote in news:e6kmqu$iph$1$ snipped-for-privacy@news.demon.co.uk:

Cheers Brian it was actually quite an interesting post. With regards to cheepness, don't mind me I'm still sniping at the the followers of teh inferior railways on the wrong side of the Pennines, LMS (well at least the the L&Y/ELR part) and the GWR - black bitumious paint, what more does anyone need to know if the GWR did it, it had to be right :-)

Reply to
Chris Wilson

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might be a bit quicker :)

Reply to
Rich

Yeah, seems like same sort of stuff - only comes in 500ml or larger sizes though. The one from the US is a nice handy 2oz size and only about $20 delivered.

Cheers Mal Oz (zie, Ozzie, Ozzie - oi, oi, oi)

...sorry about that ;-)

Reply to
Draconus

Isn't there something similar as one of the Model Rail reader offers? I'm sure it used to be.

MBQ

Reply to
manatbandq

Possibly, but a lot of those offers seem only to be available in the UK, not to us convicts down here.

Incidentally, a previous poster suggested that it may be quicker for me to get some locally (from within Australia). Not necessarily so. I can't comment on the Eastern seaboard delivery times, but I can get items delivered to Perth on the west coast from either UK or the US significantly faster than I can ordering say from Melbourne or Sydney.

Example, recently got some electronic parts and tools sent from Ohio to Perth - 6 days door to door. This is quite common, longest I've waited from US or UK is 10 days. I can even get fresh tea delivered from the innards of China - door to door in 10-12 days.

However my wife regularly orders cross stitch kits from companies over east and we wait 4-5 weeks regularly - and that's after paying the additional $6.80 for express parcels!.

Yes, the postage is a little more expensive from the US or UK, as you would expect, but for me time is just as valuable a commodity.

Go figure. Cheers Mal Oz

Reply to
Draconus

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