compressor question_mounting it?

I've seen many a compressor stay on the wood skid it was packaged on without issue. If you like, use sleeve anchors to bolt it to the floor. A piece of conveyor belting, a cut tire tread section or anything else of the same type material will help in quieting it down a bit but is not absolutely necessary.

Shawn

If it isn't wandering, cut the skid back or cover it with sheet metal to protect from sparks. I'm a fan of wood bases for this type of machine. You can reduce the wood needed by using blocks under the feet, something like 4X4's, with lag bolts to hold the feeet to the blocks. Try to mount it so that the tank has the drain at the lowest point, straight up and down for a vert tank, inclined at a slight pitch toward the drain end for a horizontal -- about 1/8 to 1/4" over the length is usually sufficient. Greatly reduced rust pitting. Using wood block raises the tank enough to make drain plumbing easy.

If you really need to mount it hard, anchor wood blocks t the floor and lag to then. The blocks will take up a lot of vibraion and help quiet the machine. Also helps keep things from being vibrated off the walls.

My Champion air compressor was built in the 50's and I think it is still bolted to the wooden skid that it was shipped from the factory on. It seems to work for noise surpression so I left it under the compressor when I set it up 10 years ago. Come to think of it as oil soaked and dry as it is it would make mighty good tinder.

It should be. Mine's bolted to the floor with some rubber spacers between the compressor legs and the floor (cuts down on the noise and vibration). I got pads specifically made for this, but an old mud flap cut into 3"x3" squares with a 1/2" hole in the middle will do fine. I drilled 1/2" holes in the floor, about 1.5" deep, inserted some concrete anchor sleeves (the ribbed kind that expand when a lag screw is driven into them), and ran the lag screws down through the mounting feet.

For drainage, I replaced the petcock on the bottom of the tank with an elbow, a 12" pipe nipple, and a ball valve at the end. This was much easier than reaching under the tank to drain it. I've since upgraded to an automatic drain (electric solenoid-based, on a timer), which vents to the outside. This keeps the tank dry and (relatively) rust-free inside.

That wooden skid makes it pretty easy to get a hand truck under the compressor to move it too.

well it's all ready to rock and roll. i ended up making a nice and sturdy

man, i wrote "I also" about fifty times in that post, what a simp! walt