Is it me or is this just not MIG-able?

Recently we had a project that wanted us to build frames out of 1x1

1/8th inch wall aluminum box tube. The catch was that there are panels that fit into these frames, like glass into a mullioned window, so we were trying not to weld the inside fillet welds in the corners, instead, the only welds were to be on the surface and back. For paint and finish, the welds on the front were to be ground/sanded flush. Using a Miller 210 Pulse Mig welder, I could not find settings that gave decent penetration at the first part of the weld without blowing away the metal at the end. Even starting near the middle of the tube and backing up then running the whole inch left me with a big underpenetrated lump where the weld started. If I slowed down enough to get some penetration, I had a huge divot on the far end. In most cases when we ground the test welds flat, they were not tough enough to stand up to the handling and abuse between now and installation.

We finally switched to steel.

I really don't like grinding welds because I feel it seriously reduces the strength of the weld. I thought about trying TIG, since filler metal can be added without adding heat and vice versa, but I haven't yet taught myself well enough.

Should I have been able to do this with MIG? What should I try next time?

Thanks guys!

Stuart

Reply to
Stuart Wheaton
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If the weld is done properly (fully penetrated), grinding it flat can actually increase its strength, by removing the stress concentrations of the discontinuity from flat plate to humped-up weld bead. Not that the bead should be humped up all that much in the first place, if the weld is done properly - a big hump helps to distort the parts being welded as it shrinks.

You are not alone, however - my welding instructor would laugh himself silly if he saw some of the "patches" which my backhoe had done to it before I got it - big hunks of heavy plate slapped over a crack. They might keep that crack from opening up, but they are encouraging new cracks all around their edges, again, due to stress concentrations.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

It should have been posible to MIG weld that, but you haven't specified wire size, voltge or wire speed.

Were you trying to spray or short circuit?

If you beveled the edges of the side to be ground flat and layed a short circuit bead in there. I can't see why that wouldn't work.

0.030" wire would be about right for 1/8" wall tube.

TIG would be the better way to go, especially since Aluminum MIG has horrendous weld shrinkage.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Sorry, that was a dumb oversight wasn't it...

It was .035" 4043 I started at the reccommended settings and went up from there, I presumed that the settings were for plate stock in butt joints, so tubes would need more. The Aluminum was wire brushed prior to welding with a stainless steel toothbrush. It was supplied free of oil, dirt or water and at room temp for several days. I didn't solvent clean it. The cut ends were made with a non-ferrous blade on a makita power miter saw. 100% argon shielding at about 20 cfh, still air.

Spray

How should I bevel this stuff? I've read not to use grinders and such because they smear the surface oxides and grit into the aluminum.

.030 would be a big difference? Just stocked up on tips and wire in .035, but next time I run low should I swap down? Almost everything aluminum we do is 1/8" box tube with occaisional bits of 1/4 plate and pipe.

I'm suspecting there's a narrow band in the settings that allow this kind of penetration on that short a run. The corners of both tubes just seem to suck the heat out of the first bit of weld. Maybe I just missed it and should do a dozen more coupons. My un-ground welds are plenty strong, but too much seems to be on the surface.

I think I just need to drag the 250 in and teach myself TIG!

Thanks Ernie!

BTW I'm serious about those theatre welding 'books'! I want one and wanna donate one to my Alma Mater!

Stuart

Reply to
Stuart Wheaton

By Non-ferrous do you mean a carbide tipped blade, or abrasive wheel? Do not use an abrasive wheel to cut aluminum you plan on welding.

Big mistake. Switch to short circuit welding. Spray is too hot for 1/8" unless you are running long seams really fast.

A coarse zirconium flapper wheel on a right angle grinder.

0.035" will work, but it is best to size your wire to your work. Small welds----> Small wire.

Switch to short circuit and the tube wall will have less effect.

We'll see.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Carbide tipped blade designed for cutting non-ferrous metals. Has a negative hook I believe, keeps the gullets from filling up with Aluminum chips. Works great!

Thanks for your advice, methinks I'm gonna stay after work Weds and see how this works!

Reply to
Stuart Wheaton

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