putting up metal building

Thanks for your reply bill.

I forgot to metion that the sales guy said I should dirll a couple of holes in the square tubing that's underground so the concrete fills the inside. The rest of the building is a 4in slab.

One question for you, will the tape allow the concrete to adhere to the post in the ground?

Thanks,

Sam

Sam, I would also drill a hole about 1' up from the base (assuming you are sinking 2') and place a 1/2 x 10" galvanized bolt, all thread or even rebar through your 4x4 post. Even if the concrete does not adhere to your posts I am pretty sure they won't pull up or blow away.

Mark

Yes! And make sure the bottom of the tube is sealed with the tape, or weld a plug/plate on it, and then wrap it also. Be sure the bottom of the hole has some gravel in it for the tube to rest on. It helps keep water drained.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Its unlikley that you need to worry about the tube pulling up and out of the slab, unless you live in tornado alley. In which case..simply weld a couple flanges on the bottom of the tube for the concrete to set around.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner Asch" wrote: (clip) In which case..simply weld a couple flanges on the bottom of the tube for the concrete to set around. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Gunner, you evidently missed this part of the OP's post:

Since I'm not a welder the sales person at the metal building supply store suggested....

The thickness seems a bit marginal. I would go to at least 11 gauge which is 1/8th wall. A column would fail by the wall collapsing. If it greater safety is required the first foot above the floor line could be filled with concrete. Tubing is becoming a lot more common in structural than in the past. Keep in mind that the total weight of material is greatly reduced but the cost per pound over open sections like wide flange is considerable. To minimise moisture damage to the structure I prefer pouring a small wall at least six inches around the perimeter. This allows you to hose and clean the finished floor without concern of water damage. The outer cladding can extend an inch or so below the small wall preventing outside water working its way in. The extra work involved in an edge thickened slab or small wall is worth the effort. A lot depends on local costs, building codes, and climate. Randy

I'm putting up a small metal building for the first time, it is a 12 X

1. I went to my local metal building supply store, and they recommended that for my building size I can use a 4x4 14 guage square tube instead of an I-beam, with one on each corner and two in the middle. Since I'm not a welder the sales person at the metal building supply store suggested that I coat the square tubing with a rust repellent paint and stick them in the ground two feet in concrete, thereby circumventing putting in a weld plate as a well as an edge thickened slab. I've done treated wood posts like this but I just don't know how fast the square tubing can rust in the ground like this. If you have any experience or knowledge in this area, please let me know about what you think.

Sam

Get a tall can of spray pickup bed liner, clean off any dirt or grease with acetone and paint them with the rattle can of bed liner, you might want to scuff them up with some 100-200 grit sand paper before wiping them down. The rattle can bed liner I am fond of is the stuff from either Krylon or Plasticote manufacturers what ever brand you use read the label on the can and make sure that the coating is Polyurethane based. The spray bed liner will provide the cleaned and scuffed parts to be bonded into the concrete with a tough waterproof, sun resistant thick coating like hard plastic only it won't chip off easily and will readily bond to concrete. Again make sure it is polyurethane spray bed liner, and clean the heck out of the surfaces as well as scuff them up with sandpaper followed with acetone wipe down. To build up the coating spray multiple thin coats rather than one huge runny coat. Good luck and happy new year, regards Joe.

One thing that my Father-in-Law taught me - planting trees - is to have a tall juice can - remember them - the metal ones before plastic - or a conduit pipe - 3-4" in diameter - filled with gravel - leading down to the bottom gravel. The top is open. Wind will wick out the water.

It was used on Pecan trees that likes moist but not water logged roots.

It might be a good idea here if there is ground water problem.

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Gunner Asch wrote:

Depends.

My shop lived through 85 mph winds - but then several years ago a twister a cat 5 - big one - sucked the concrete slabs off the ground. Houses and all. So don't over design - but don't under design either.

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Wiz wrote: