Was given a new 90 AMP BUZZ BOX, what electrodes should I use ?

Typo. I mean 3/32 ......

That is why CH has a 5/64 electrode, for their buzz boxes.

Reply to
N9WOS
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Not so! As the work area heats up the weld penetration increases, assuming all other factors remain the same ( weld speed, arc length, etc) and the rod flows better resulting in a smoother weld bead. The appearance looks very good.

Reply to
Mach1

Yes, so. Over penetration, splatter, unstable puddle. Introducing too much heat into the weld area, or welding the wrong direction can cause just as many problems as duty cycle.

I don't know what size pipe he is welding, but in most cases it's unreasonable to run out of duty cycle by just partially welding a single pipe.

Reply to
Tim

It was 6" pipe. In fact 6" well casing, about 1/4" thick.

"Then a while back I was welding some six inch pipe"

It would actually weld ok closer to 3/4's of the way around, and it was definitely duty cycle. Not heat build up. Certainly not in sections of pipe

6' long and 6" in diameter. Since then I have discovered all cheap welders have this problem. With my Miller 212 I can pretty much go nonstop. I just started stopping halfway around on each piece because it worked well for keeping everything going with out stopping work to wait on anything.

Think of making a butt weld in 1/4" plate 9 to 12 inches long. 18+ to go all the way around. With my Miller 212 I could have made the entire weld without stopping, except for a tiny bit at the end so I could get a nice flow into the start of the bead at the end of the bead.

Yes, I was using 3/32 rod in my cracker box. It won't push 1/8 inch rod very effectively.

Yes, later I discovered adding a cooling fan to my flux core wire feed helped a lot. (Thanks to suggestions from this group) I converted a boat trailer into a flatbed using it last year before I bought my Miller. I was actually able to do some real work with it before having to stop and let it cool down. The C-Channel I was welding on the trailer tapered from about

3/32 to 5/16 or thicker in the corners. I never had to weld more than a few inches at a time on the trailer project.

Since I got the Miller wire feed and my dual bottle setup and dual guns I have not plugged my crackerbox back in, and have only used the flux core in the field where I do not have 220V 50 amps readily available.

Bob La Londe

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Reply to
Bob La Londe

If you read my reply, I mentioned that heating the work area will improve the weld appearance and penetration all else remaining the same, I repeat, all else remaining the same. If you in fact weld, relearn the causes of splatter. There is no mention of a hot work surface causing this problem.

Off the topic, how long have you been welding? In my 42 years of welding, most with stick, I have never had a splatter problem due to a hot work surface. Yes over penetration can be a problem with a hot work piece especially for beginners, unstable arc, never experienced that.

Reply to
Mach1

Go f*ck yourself. I wasn't taking to you to anyway.

Reply to
Tim

My my....your maturity is starting to show. I assume you believe it is OK to give Bull Shit advice to someone. Read and learn my young rude impertinent want to be welder. Oh wait..I forgot, you af course know all.

Have a good day. Note: no teenage vocabulary coming from this end. :-)

Reply to
Mach1

Cheers,

/Jman...

Tack welding is IMHO best accomplished with a machine that allows an easy arc start using the tap start technique and (in most situations) using rods (xx10 & 11) giving quick and deep penetration and having friable flux that does not need complete removal before welding over. Your small buzz box will probably strike an arc much easier using the scratch technique which is not the best for precise tack placement and will not easily run the size or type of deep penetrating rods best used for deep penetration.

I suspect that your lack of penetration is partly due to the typical low penetration of 6013 rods but also to the 'chilling effect' from using very small rods and power levels when welding material too large to be properly heated by the small arc energy and which is probably causing the deposited weld material to 'cold lap' and not properly melt or fuse to the material being welded. 'Cold laps' are most often found when welding in the horizontal position and are the reason why most failed weld tests are failed in this usually considered to be the easiest weld position. You may have more success welding uphill @ ~45 degree slope and (as I mentioned earlier in this thread) using suitable preheat.

Tim Taylor is right that we usually need (or at least want) 'more power'.

Reply to
Private

Who needs vocabulary with a dick head attitude like yours. Talk about immaturity, pot-kettle-black.

If you knew even a fraction as much about welding as you claim, you should have no problem understanding my post. Give a atmosphere of formal training, you learn such things the first week.

Reply to
Tim

At least your vocabulary has matured in the last little while, to bad I can't say the same for your welding knowledge.

Reply to
Mach1

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Thanks for the complete and well written response.

Reply to
Private

Reply to
RoyJ

Rod coating just not designed for that type of thing. If you are using the rod for gouging or cutting soak the rod in water prior to use for a couple of minutes.

Reply to
Mach1

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