Was given a new 90 AMP BUZZ BOX, what electrodes should I use ?



It's the duty cycle of the machine that is the problem. They use aluminum windings. The resistance starts going up as the heat goes up. The arc current starts dropping off rapidly after a specific point.
The heat dissipation in the winding is a result of it's resistance. The resistance is a result of the temperature of the winding.
As the winding heats up, it's resistance goes up, which causes more heat to be dumped in it. That causes it to heat up faster. On and on.
There is a tipping point where it just goes into runaway heating. The only way for it to recover is to let it cool down.
The welds will all go to crap because the weld current will be a fraction of what it would be cold.
A cooling fan, will help.
Rewinding the core with copper wire will also help.

I don't think there is any way in heck you would run 1/8 on a big box store buzz box. They normally can't even run 5/32
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5/32 is larger than 1/8.
He mentions running out of duty cycle while welding half way around a pipe. Perhaps this is possible with some cracker boxes, but certainly not all. But you can also have very similar problems with generator machines with 100% duty cycles. If you start getting too much heat build up in the work piece, or even the weld area like welding toward the edge work piece, you can a have very similar issues.
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Typo. I mean 3/32 ......
That is why CH has a 5/64 electrode, for their buzz boxes.
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Not so! As the work area heats up the weld penetration increases, assuming all other factors remain the same ( weld speed, arc length, etc) and the rod flows better resulting in a smoother weld bead. The appearance looks very good.
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Yes, so. Over penetration, splatter, unstable puddle. Introducing too much heat into the weld area, or welding the wrong direction can cause just as many problems as duty cycle.
I don't know what size pipe he is welding, but in most cases it's unreasonable to run out of duty cycle by just partially welding a single pipe.
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It was 6" pipe. In fact 6" well casing, about 1/4" thick.
"Then a while back I was welding some six inch pipe"
It would actually weld ok closer to 3/4's of the way around, and it was definitely duty cycle. Not heat build up. Certainly not in sections of pipe 6' long and 6" in diameter. Since then I have discovered all cheap welders have this problem. With my Miller 212 I can pretty much go nonstop. I just started stopping halfway around on each piece because it worked well for keeping everything going with out stopping work to wait on anything.
Think of making a butt weld in 1/4" plate 9 to 12 inches long. 18+ to go all the way around. With my Miller 212 I could have made the entire weld without stopping, except for a tiny bit at the end so I could get a nice flow into the start of the bead at the end of the bead.
Yes, I was using 3/32 rod in my cracker box. It won't push 1/8 inch rod very effectively.
Yes, later I discovered adding a cooling fan to my flux core wire feed helped a lot. (Thanks to suggestions from this group) I converted a boat trailer into a flatbed using it last year before I bought my Miller. I was actually able to do some real work with it before having to stop and let it cool down. The C-Channel I was welding on the trailer tapered from about 3/32 to 5/16 or thicker in the corners. I never had to weld more than a few inches at a time on the trailer project.
Since I got the Miller wire feed and my dual bottle setup and dual guns I have not plugged my crackerbox back in, and have only used the flux core in the field where I do not have 220V 50 amps readily available.
Bob La Londe www.YumaBassMan.com
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If you read my reply, I mentioned that heating the work area will improve the weld appearance and penetration all else remaining the same, I repeat, all else remaining the same. If you in fact weld, relearn the causes of splatter. There is no mention of a hot work surface causing this problem.
Off the topic, how long have you been welding? In my 42 years of welding, most with stick, I have never had a splatter problem due to a hot work surface. Yes over penetration can be a problem with a hot work piece especially for beginners, unstable arc, never experienced that.
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Go fuck yourself. I wasn't taking to you to anyway.
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My my....your maturity is starting to show. I assume you believe it is OK to give Bull Shit advice to someone. Read and learn my young rude impertinent want to be welder. Oh wait..I forgot, you af course know all.
Have a good day. Note: no teenage vocabulary coming from this end. :-)
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Who needs vocabulary with a dick head attitude like yours. Talk about immaturity, pot-kettle-black.
If you knew even a fraction as much about welding as you claim, you should have no problem understanding my post. Give a atmosphere of formal training, you learn such things the first week.
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At least your vocabulary has matured in the last little while, to bad I can't say the same for your welding knowledge.
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I've had problems when I overheat the ROD ie 1/8" 6013 at 130 amps tends to turn it red, things just fall apart at that point.
Mach1 wrote:

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Rod coating just not designed for that type of thing. If you are using the rod for gouging or cutting soak the rod in water prior to use for a couple of minutes.
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