Help finding odd screws

I take it the existing 8-24 threads are pretty shallow, and the holes are blind into the stock.

One option would be to obtain some partially threaded

Another option would be to drill the holes in the pulls all the way through, and simply through tap them for

Finally you could purchase a 10-32 bottoming tap, drill the existing threads up to the tap drill size (maybe a little smaller if the section is thin) and then bottom tap them for 10-32.

If you tap 8-32 into an 8-24 existing hole, it will be a fairly weak job when you are done because of the threads crossing the threads inside the hole. I would go one size up as stated.

Jim

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You could buy a bottoming tap, which is made to thread to the bottom of a blind hole and doesn't have the tapered "starter threads," but I don't think you would get very strong threads in a hole that's already been tapped. I would suggest drilling out the existing holes and installing 8-32 helical thread inserts (Helicoil is the best known brand name.) Try doing a Froogle search for "8-32 thread repair kit."

What is the chance that they are metric? Say, 4mm X 1.0mm?

Sounds like 3/16" Whitworth to me.

Cheers Tim

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

It is possible to turn these on a metal lathe but it doesn't sound to me like you own one. What you can do that hasn't been considered yet is to drill out the entire threaded hole, then to fill it with epoxy like JB Weld, then drill and tap the epoxy as if it were metal. You will still need a bottoming tap, but if you get desperate you can just grind off the bottom 1/8" or so of your existing tapered tap and that will make it into a bottoming tap.

Are you *sure* you can't find an 8-24 tap? MSC has one in their catalog, their item 74817255, but they don't have one in stock and they want a breathtaking $26.82 for it. See

Grant Erw> We live in a house from the 20s and I am rehabbing a built-in "dresser". I

Crown City Hardware, here in California is the creme de la creme source for old hardware, repros etc etc. Ive been in there..and its awesome.

They have buyers that travel all over the world looking for orginal NOS etc and are the biggest players in the old house/old furniture restoration biz

Gunner

"By calling attention to 'a well regulated militia', the 'security' of the nation, and the right of each citizen 'to keep and bear arms', our founding fathers recognized the essentially civilian nature of our economy. Although it is extremely unlikely that the fears of governmental tyranny which gave rise to the Second Amendment will ever be a major danger to our nation, the Amendment still remains an important declaration of our basic civilian-military relationships, in which every citizen must be ready to participate in the defense of his country. For that reason, I believe the Second Amendment will always be important." -- Senator John F. Kennedy, (D) 1960

You may be able to find the 8-24 screws. If not, re-tap.

Why not re-tap to 10-24? It's a standard size. You can get sets of three taps

- taper, plug and bottoming - real cheap. In brass, you might even get away with tapping the existing threads without drilling a larger hole. Finish with the bottoming tap to cut to the bottom of the hole. 10-24 machine screws are available everywhere.

John Martin

Just a thought - long reach pop rivets?

No home should be without a set of Lee Valley catalogues. Their 'hardware' one is most impressive. Overall they are regarded as 'fist' books in my neck of the woods.

Get some long bolts that will fit in the hole and cut the heads off... Stick that cut off end in the door pull with JB-weld in the hole... Wait a few days and put them on your units with nuts on the back-side...

Grant Erwin snipped-for-privacy@kirkland.net

He's got the tapped holes. He needs the 8-24 *die* for making some screws???

Frank Morrison

In the past, I have used an epoxy-type produce, made by Permatex, I think, which can be used to restore stripped threads. You spray the male thread with a release agent, and then smear on the plastic. Then you insert the screw in the hold and let it cure. Then simply unscrew the thread from the now plastic threads. It is not recommended for applications with high stress or vibration, but I am sure it would work fine on drawer pulls.

You could either drill out the old 24 pitch threads, or force assemble with the 8-32, using the resin for reinforcement. I would be inclined to partially drill it out, leaving enough of the 24-pitch thread to help the bond, while still permitting a cross-threaded assembly without too much hassle.

I like this idea . Simple . Is drilling and tapping them a risk if something goes wrong ? Finding the right die also sounds better to me then tapping . Epoxy in some studs and put acorn nuts on the back would be my first choice though . Luck Ken Cutt

Or maybe 10-24? Unless 8-24 is specific to older furniture, it is not a listed size in any screw charts I have.