looking for an electric ARF

Hi,

I've flown primarly gas powered planes and would like to add an electric to my collection. Can you guys recommend a good and easy to build ARF?

Thanks

Reply to
Mitch
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there are so many.

How about a multiplex TwinStar?

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Do some shopping at

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- more electric ARF's there than I'll be able to crash in a lifetime!

Reply to
BÿkrDan

Why not look at IC ARTF 40 type. They are dead easy to convert to electric and it opens up many new choices for you. I have done a Seagull Stearman See:

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Gambler Ben Buckle Majestic Major Seagull Spacewalker All fly well. Regards John.

Reply to
JB

On 4/5/2004 12:56 AM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

I recently decided to try electrics after flying glow planes for years. My first plane was a Sky Scooter. It is a nice plane, however, I found it VERY DISAPPOINTING on performance and the ability to handle wind (a great trainer though).

I have found out since then, that MOST speed 400 planes have problems with the following: ROG from a grass field, wind much over 5 mph (plane gets knocked around quite a bit) and flight duration without LiPo batteries is USUALLY under 8 minutes.

One plane setup I found (not a "conversion") is offered by MEC - the

3D Freedom
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The plane/recommended setup provides 40 size performance, is VERY aerobatic being 3D (quite stable though) and flight duration is about 10

- 12 minutes doing loops, rolls, hammerheads, cuban 8's. This is on a

10 cell NiMH pack. I am presently getting flights of 9 minutes doing aerobatics (3/4 - full throttle) for about 7 of those 9 minutes. If you just want to "putt around", I can realistically see flights of 12 minutes plus in duration.

I have the plane and love it. It handles the wind well and the performance is right there with a 40 size plane.

The price isn't bad either - about $410 for EVERYTHING. The only suggestion/addition I will make is to jumper a regular switch harness (for the BEC - Battery Elimination Circuit) so you can cut off power to the receiver.

Hope this helps.

Reply to
Ted Campanelli

I really enjoy my old kit-built Great Planes ElectroStreak. The new ones are ARFs. With an upgraded (modernized) motor and battery system, you'd have an excellent airplane, me thinks....

Good flying, Bob Scott

Reply to
Bob

Try a Zagi or one of the other foam flying wings. The Zagi is mostly taped together and I've found it to be a very rugged little plane. I have one of the older Zagi 400s and I can get about 8 minutes with an 8-cell KAN 950 (now KAN1050) pack. The Zagi 400X uses larger batteries and can fly longer. There are also other flying wings around with similar flying characteristics.

Morris

Reply to
Morris Lee

Wingo. Sky Scooter Pro II

The Wingo also makes a very good wireless video platform:

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or DSL recommended...

Reply to
Fubar

I think that is fair comment. If youy want a plane that will handle a bit of wind, you really are pushing into the twin 400/600 or better bracket. Thats why I recommended the twinstar - its a twin 400 and has a bit more size and weight to it.

Converting glo trainrtes may not always get you the performance you hope for without spending a fair bit of cash. They are built wuite heavily. Purpose built planes for electric are often a lot better - sometimes a lot worse tho I agree.

10 sub C cells and a halfway decent motor/box/prop combo is about a .25 in performance. Thats a tad short of a .40 tho - for that you ned 10 AT cells and a fairly expensive motor.

.25 sized planes can be electrified quite cheaply, beyond that the costs start to spiral.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Bob- Agree with you that a kit-built Electrostreak is a winner. The ARF is a different animal. It looks very good, and the wings and tail feathers are well built. The fuselage is another story - they cheaped out on this. It is not epoxy glass like the nice sailplane models from E Europe, possibly polyester, though if the latter it didn't wet out and bond the glass fiber very well. The shell is heavy, soft and brittle, and appears to be both gel-coated and painted. The paint is oversprayed to the interior where it has to be sanded off before any adhesive will bond. I assembled one and fitted it with a Phasor 30/3 and 10 CP1700's. It has 10X6 folding prop which provides ample motivation with motor current about 30 A. It is fun to fly after the launch, which is dicey in that stall speed is about 25 mph at the finished weight of 47 oz. You need a helper with a good throwing arm. It's the weight and fragile fuselage that keeps me from recommending it. I follow my own advice too - picked up NIB kit at the last swap meet I went to. I'm certain at least half a pound can be saved with the kit, possibly more with care.

Abel

Reply to
Abel Pranger

I'm sorry to hear that.... a really great airplane "ruined" by ARF conversion. The kit is a pain to build with all that sanding the fuse to shape, but the thing flies great. I was curious about the ARF as I have destroyed one kit-built 'Streak and am flying my second one. I never thought to pick up another kit just in case.

I have a Magnetic Mayhem truck motor in mine. I don't fly it all that often, but whenever I do, I enjoy the heck out of it and start considering upgrading the motor/battery. I honestly doubt I ever will unless I get more involved in electrics (or hit the lottery).

Good flying, Bob Scott

Reply to
Bob

that's what I've seen with the one at our club. it's heavy...it's heavy...it's heavy!

and the fuselage shape of the ARF is different...does not have the elegance of the original kit design.

it does fly but NOT like the kit one I built a few years ago. that was an amazing airplane on a direct drive astro 15 and ten cells...

cheers astroflyer

park flyer plans

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Reply to
astroflyer

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