I have a Hobbyco Superstar 40 trainer, and the nose wheel has been
taking a pounding as I have scared more than one instructor. I'm
getting tired of rebending and replacing the nose gear.
One guy at the club suggested I convert it to a taildragger. Does
anyone know where the main mounts should be relocated, either as a
%mac, or actual distance from a fixed point. I know it need to move
forward, but not how far. Or does it really matter???
Thanks in advance for your help.
Rich
Professional Navigator
Bad Student Pilot
Rich,
I had one of these years ago and converted it to taildragger before
ever flying it. I purchase an aluminum gear set, epoxied a small
block of quarter inch ply such that the wheels alighned with the
leading edge, and tapped it for nylon bolts. For the tail wheel, a
drilled inch long small hardwood dowel epoxied to the bottom of the
rudder allowed for the attachment of a simple tail wheel. I flew it
until all the covering fell off and then donated it to the landfill.
Have fun
Lenny Nipper
One last question: Is it wise to enlarge the rudder? Maybe 50%
increase in area for better ground control with a free wheeling tail
wheel? Or go to a tail wheel that steers with the stock rudder?
I have the aluminum gear, and will put the tires at the leading edge
as suggested. Thanks to all for your help!!!
Rich.....
I did this conversion to my first trainer when I got pretty good at landing.
It was a Sig Kadet LT40. I aligned the wheel axels to the leading edge and
did not change the rudder size. I drilled a hole through the fuse and
attached the tail wheel to the rudder using a bend along about half the
length of the rudder and had 3/4 of an inch sticking up into the meat of the
rudder. worked great until I had it inverted and decided to pull up. :-) can
you say re-kit? :-)
Mark
15 degrees is the universally accepted position, as you say, but be
sure to note that this is with the airplane in a level flying
position. If the tail was on the ground and the contact point was 15
degrees ahead of the CG, the airplane would have serious noseover
tendencies.
With regard to the toe-in/toe-out debate: set the wheels to
parallel, no toe-in or out. Most full-scale taildragger service
manuals will call for such a setting, and if there's toe-in mentioned,
it's often to get the gear tracking straight when rolling friction
twists the gear a tiny bit outward, the same principle as a car's
front wheel alignment. The toe-in will be small, maybe a degree or
degree and a half; someone mentioned 4 degrees, and that's asking for
an unmanageable airplane.
Some airplanes use toe-out, and of the taildragger's I've flown
with misaligned wheels, the toed-out ones were easier to handle. Any
swerve will put more weight on the outside wheel, and a bit of toe-out
will tend to lessen the swerve just a bit. More than a degree or so
will ruin the handling qualities and make a dog of it. My own airplane
(full-scale Jodel) has the wheels set straight and handles properly.
Dan
Flight Instructor on real airplanes
Aircraft Maintenance Engineer
Taildragger pilot for 28 years
I also do full throttle touch and goes which really are beyond the average
student and hard on equipment.
You forgot to tell him that I use a 20 ounce ballpeen hammer. LOL
So far, nobody's mentioned how to attach the tailwheel. I like the type of
tailwheel bracket that mounts on the bottom of the fuselage. Bend the
tiller arm so that you can attach it to the bottom of the rudder. You can
use either thread and glue or better, bend a small hook at end of the arm
and insert a T pin near the trailing edge of the rudder, then use a rubber
band or small spring to connect the two.
Morris
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com
Tail wheel- best and simple is just get a Sullivan unit. Package has
wheel, mount, springloaded strut, spring connector to rudder for
steering. attach it to a balsa or plywood base in the tail structure.
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