At our club we purchase them from Farnell. They suit the Futaba Rx's
by knive chamfering one corner.
Crimp socket ref:865-795
Crimping tool is a tad expensive...but less than a crashed plane due
to poor crimping procedure.
Have a look at <http://www.farnell.com
If it's the one I bought at Radio Shack for something like that price,
then it's not the same. The proper ones have a bump in the groove for the
22-26 ga. pins that deforms (indents) the top of the crimp, while my RS
piece works okay, it doesn't have that shape of the groove. Red
Scholefield told me that his crimper (from Cermark, he believes) does it
right. And I imagine that the $99 models do too.
Charles Wahl < email@example.com>
I have both a Radio Shack cheapo (relatively) crimper and the genuine
Molex hand crimper. There is simply to comparison. The cheaper ones
just crushes the connector, whereas the well-designed ones folds the
"flanges" back in onto the center. If you ever look closely at any
factory crimped 22-30ga. connector pins, you'll see how it's supposed
to be done.
Then again, that's not to say the $8 crimper doesn't work. If you
augmented the crimp with a dab of solder, the connection will be just
as strong, if not stronger.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Mathew Kirsch) wrote in message
A major problem of soldering them is nobody has anti-wick tweezers.
Solder then wicks out the wire and the flex is where the solder stops
OUTSIDE the housing!
On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 01:05:58 GMT, email@example.com (Charles Wahl)
The easy way is to crimp with pliers, then solder to be sre with just a
dab. More and you will scew uop teh self locker.
Then crimp any cable strengthening bits with pliers before final insertion.
If you check teh co nectors and pins are locked before use, its more
reliable ELECTRICALLY than a BAD crimp. It may be a tad less reliable
mechanically as solder can run up the wire, sitffening it, and leaving a
stress concentration a few mm under the insulation. Another reaso to use
very little solder.
Yes, I did say a *DAB* of solder, didn't I? :-) They key is to use
just enough solder to keep the wire from pulling out of the crimp and
the strengthen the body of the pin, but not enough to wick into the
wire. This is not very hard to do with these dinky pins and wires,
which heat up very quickly.
As for the "distempering" thing. I doubt it very much. Most of these
pins are formed from nothing more than stamped sheet metal. I don't
think any manufacturer would bother with the expense of heat-treating
them. And being that they are usually made of very soft and ductile
tin- or gold-plated copper, there is no work-hardening in the
I checked my Radio Shack 3 size crimpers this afternoon - there is the
bump on the 2 largest openings. The smallest could not possibly have
a bump! I remember that to use the smallest, close the crimper slowly
to allow the ears to fold over. Just quickly closing them caused a
wrinkled crimp. The smallest is for 28-32AWG anyway - too darn small
for a servo.
On 10 Jul 2003 05:26:53 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Mathew
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