forge pics

:-) It's the inside work that catches up to you... Couple'a years at a desk is hell on the constitution.

GA

"Kyle J." wrote

That's one of the reasons that Japanese swords chip so badly when you hit something hard with it. That's why they counsel that it should never touch anything but silk, flesh and the mouth of the scabbard.

Chas

I think your first instinct is correct Chas, that the thin slip they put on the edge makes a difference alright ! And that there is enough heat bleeding down to the edge from the heavily clayed part of the blade to temper it a bit. They are not all that brittle really.

Daithi

"Knives,com" wrote

It's not really all that 'thin'. It's a mixture of stone, mud, charcoal dust and steel powder. It's sometimes so thick that they supported it with thin wire.

The edge is- and generally made from a different steel than the core, the cheeks or the back of the blade. Some of the blade, like the core, is virtually mild steel- heat treatment wouldn't make a difference in any case.

Chas

I just finished a job for 10 holding springs for a certain make and model power chair folding foot plate. The OEM ones are about 20 maybe

22-gauge and break within a few months, maybe because they're formed with a beautiful stress riser built in. :)

I made these replacements of 16-gauge 1080, quenched and then drawn to a nice blue tending toward the Dark Side (Advice from D. Vader, MFA) with no cutouts to make stress risers.

So far I have tested the living heck out of them and they're holding up well, none broke.

10 minutes work each makes a $20 solution to a $215 problem. (You can't get just the springs. You have to replace the whole assembly, mounting bracket and all.)

Each one uses up 2-1/16 inch by 1 inch piece of stock.

Cool one. :)

How would you compare your own heat treated springs to hardware store music wire spring steel? :)

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What I want Chas to know is the spring broke and maybe he did cause it if he chingered a scratch/dent into it where it broke. But a spring "should;)" not break... it should be able to bend and stay bent. If you take a striaght spring and fold it back on itself

-flat- then yeah... but that's outside of design perameters and doesn't count. ;)

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My 1950 Win-94's two leaf springs had terrible rough-ground surfaces and on top of that, the marks ran across the springs. :/

I filed and sanded all those marks out and thinned the loading port enough where I could shove a shell into it with my bare-thumbs more than once. ;)

Alvin in AZ

I couldn't. :)

These were flat stock 1-inch wide X 2-1/16 long, cut out of sheet and bent 3/4 round on one end, 1/2-inch I.D. with a 9/32 hole drilled in the other end.

We heated them over critical and quenched. Files only skated. then drew them to dark blue. Tested by hitting one with a 3-pound hammer trying to break it. Couldn't do that either so far. Hammer just bounced, hard. Hammer was not the one used for forging, but the one used for beating the Hell out of things. :)

wrote

Complex springs break pretty regularly. Shooters sometimes carried extra mainsprings with them for flint/percussion locks; found as a 'furnished part' in cased sets an so on. The three-leaved action spring for the Colt's single action is the most common parts-failure for that design. I was grinding the spring flat to the lockplate, by hand; polishing the bearing surfaces and the 'visible' outside of the spring. I had to clamp the spring to get it on and off the lockplate. I probably over-clamped it; compressed it to failure. I had 'actioned' it a

*lot*, for the fitting (practicing the skill, not 'having' it)- so it was probably a combination of stressing it- like the novice I was.

Okay got my updated copy.

Yep this looks like a really fine small knife, you definitely couldn't get away with this with a larger chunky blade.

Regards Charles P.S. For those of you that have the previous version, it's time to update ;-)

Chilla wrote: