That data should be available. Look at shear failure specs. Of course,
that chrome does help resist the corrosive environnment that a real
sword encounters in combat use, but if you clean it right after the
battle, you shouldn't run into any long term corrosion worries. If you
lose, you're dead and it's someone else's worry. I dunno tho, there are
some really good exotics out there, like D2 and some of the other tool
steels. Then there's always compositing; a tool edge set into a ultra
strong core, like D2 or Vascowear in a Titanium base. Light, springy,
hard at the edge, withering bitch to fab, Very Large Pricetag.
5160 as it has proven to be a very GOOD steel for this application, so
for a so called "broadsword" (whatever that is...) use 5160.
For a more "flexible" bade, one where you need the "flex" over the
"chop", as in say a small sword or rapier (the REAL ones..not the radio
antennea versions..) then L-6 would be (and is) my pick.
Of course what is more important is how they are thermally treated.
Both are excellent steels when properly hardened and tempered
correctly. I have used both for decades and well, I would be
comfortbale with either one.
Hope this helps
Having noted how cheap three feet of 3/4" round stock 52100 is I've had a
bug to give it a try. would it be practical for a long blade? Been
thinking about making a Super-Machete for really serious brush clearing
52100?? well, to me that is a great knife steel but for my druthers it
has a little too much C for a big chopper/hacker. I like steels for the
bigger stuff to max out C wise at around 70/75 points.
But give it a go...see how it does and let us know??
Yep. :) Out to lunch or something. :/
Lowering hardness, lowers wear resistance. :)
Toughness is a name of a property that's used two different ways by
two different fields of steel metallurgy.
Swords and "tough knives" would fit into the part about "machine
parts and fasteners" and not-breaking is what they mean by "tough".
Knife guilds require a knife that won't break when bent but can
stay bent after an unspecified amount of pressure is applied and
the pressure amount seems to be of no concern to them at all. :(
Tool steels or the "hard steel field" (the part of the machine that
cuts or shapes the part) "tough" there means not deforming -and not-
breaking in use. But -if- it fails, it might as well break since
that's what type of failure steel in its "strongest" state does.
Like a stockman pocket knife blade... if it breaks off clean then
you can fold it up and get out another. ;)
"Deformed" like a tough-bolt that did it's job -by not letting go-
would still be ruined if you were talking about a punch as opposed
to a bolt. Deformed or broken-to-pieces, either way, is a failure
in the tool steel field.
Elastic limit is where the steel is push to where it either bends
and stays bent or breaks (or some of both;). If you measure the
amount of pressure it takes to push a steel past it's elastic-limit
(or tension to pull it past its elastic limit) and you work at
getting it to be the highest "number" (amount of strain) it'll be
in the area of its higher hardness -and- it'll prob'ly fail by
breaking, especially if the carbon content is above .80%.
So for a bolt or sword to sustain abuse and not break, it may not be
at its ultimate "machine test" strength but still is "best" for the
Alvin in AZ (ASM's number one newsgroup parrot and proud of it;)
ps- and an ASM member since way back in mid-2004;)
Alright, bad choice of terminology. My thought was that with a higher
carbon content, even if you drew the hardness way back it would still be
"stronger" and still hold an edge better than a similarly drawn medium
carbon steel. Yeah, I'm sure I do need to spend more time at the books. It
sinks in better when I have a specific application in mind. This is all a
back brain project at the moment.
Knowing nothing practical about it, using only theory, I've been
thinking of L6 (4370) as "5160 improved". That's not taking into
account any practical matters of forging, heat treatment or L6's
It's an old r.k disagreement. ;)
BTW, a couple guys from the metallurgy newsgroup tested a couple
circular saw blades for me "the non-carbide tipped type" and found
they were "0186" or called 8670-modified.
The reason we know the name is another guy on there actually worked
in a factory that made high-end saw blades even tho they make only
carbide-tipped-ones, his high-end saw blades were made of "steel
0186" supplied by Latrobe.
The head metallurgist at Latrobe (on the phone) made like all the
chrome-moly-nickel steel circular saw blades made since WW2 aren't
L6 but instead 8670-modified steel made or supplied through Latrobe.
Something else I found out was Vermont American is the largest
circular saw blade manufacturer in the world and all those house
brands like Sears "Krome-edge" are made by VA. VA gets their
Cr-Mo-Ni steel from Latrobe too... 0186 (or 8670-modified).
I have the composition ranges for 0186 if you're interested.
Oldham's non-carbide tipped saw blade turned out to be a very
clean and pure 1069.
And a relatively new Nicholson file that, to me at the time,
sparked like 1095 turned out to be what's refered to as "1.22%
carbon steel" in ASM's books.
...Since then I've learned the-darker-the-better for spark
Alvin in AZ
(you still in Nevada?)
So Alvin A few months back I got a few 36" diameter x 3/16" thick
carbide tipped saw blades from Boeing Surplus.
I figured they would be decent knife steel and at 3/16" thick some
sizeable blades could be made.
So if this stuff is 0186 and not L6, then what is the best heat treat
process to use.
Heat to ?, then quench in ? , and temper to ?
I have made a lot of blades but all from simple steels like O1, W1 and
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