This will work - but in newer homes (~25 - 50 years?) you'll likely
find a "Bond Beam" as the footing carries through under the doorway.
Keeps the walls from drifting apart over time... . You can take the
slab out, but the bond beam is going to be a problem.
Bond Beams are also found when you have support posts for porches and
second story cantilevers, they take bond beams out to the footer so it
can't move horizontally either
And you need to make the slot oversized, as you'll have to build a
concrete block wall inside your lube pit for walls, and then pour a
floor. And leave a notch around the perimeter at floor level, so you
can fill in the floor with 4X lumber to provide a walk surface.
I'd get the motor or head off the BPort, or figure a way to tilt it on
it's back getting through the doorway...
Or take out the garage door and the header, you can install the higher
header and the bigger door when you get done.
--<< Bruce >>--
The image of the mill as a whole was rather poor, so I can't
tell whether this one has the ability to rotate the head either 90
degrees, or a full 180 degrees, so you can raise the table to support it
(with a wood block protecting them from each other). This typically
reduces a lot of height, and is how I got my Series-I into the garage.
The controls were part of the Series-I BOSS-3 so no problem
there. If yours are in a separate rack (I believe this was the case)
can you unplug everything so they can be moved separately?
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Some dis-assembly required. It was built from pieces so take a few
Time to start loking for a nish A frame hoist? nah......... Build a
new garage around it. Yours is too short anyway. BTW mine is 1600 (mm)
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