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Modifying vmc tables

Awl --

In a 16x30 Fadal table, there are 3 t-slots, starting about 4" in from either front/back edge of the table.

Suppose you wanted/needed to fasten a plate down, right at its ends in Y. Seems to me you would need a C-clamp of sorts, to grap under the table.

But, there is a sheet metal shroud. Knocking it reveals about 2" worth of solid table, and the screws indicate that this shroud would come off easily. I'm sure it's protecting sumpn sumpn, and the Q is: Is it a simple-ish matter to remove this shroud and fashion something that will protect whatever needs protecting, whilst exposing some lip of the

2" thick table that can be grabbed?

Good idear? Bad idear? Ultimately pointless idear? Other idears?

Do most vmc tables have this sheet metal hiding a usable table lip?

Other Q:

What are those "scallops" on the table surface for? I heard for oil or sumpn, which really didn't make a whole lot of sense. So shit doesn't stick/bond? For breathability/bacteria? Is a scalloped table cheaper to make? More/less accurate than smooth? Are most vmc tables scalloped? Smooth?

I'da prefered a nice smooth table, like those heavy-assed gang drill press tables.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®
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It as simple or complicated as you want to make it.

You could bolt some extensions to the back of the table.

Or fabricate some parallels with t-slots or tapped holes to use as extensions bolted down using the table slots.

Watch out for the Y axis way cover in the back. The boss will get seriously pissed if it gets mangled beyond repair by a work piece because they're not cheap to replace. I know this from experience.

My vote is so stuff doesn't stick.

I wear insulated work boots year round. That suffice?

Doesn't appear that way.

Same.

50:50 in my experience. We've got Fadal's with both styles.

I prefer the scalloped. Easier to get shit sitting flat on the table because tiny bits of debris have a place to go. Of course I work on large heavy stuff on a consistent basis.

Reply to
Black Dragon

PV:

One option is as BD suggested to use parallels that screw to the T-slots and hang over the edges of the table in Y (making sure they won't hit the Z axis ways when all the way back OR the doors when all the way forward. We've got 3" tall by 2" wide steel parallels for the Haas that screw to the table and have 1/2-13 threaded holes every 1" along the top to clamp large plates to.

Another option is the make a sub-plate that hangs over the table both front and back in Y.

A third option - And I REALLY hate to suggest this - as it's UTTER SACRILEGE - you can tap holes in the table. You didn't hear that from me. LOL

Reply to
BottleBob

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