| snipped-for-privacy@ipal.net wrote: | |> So, if we could scrap the whole system, or better yet, if you invented a |> time machine and could go back and create a standard for the whole world, |> how would you do it? | | That's a good question, isn't it? If I can have the time machine can I | take my present-day knowledge back with me? When Edison designed his | 100V d.c. sytem it made sense in terms of the requirements at the time. | Small incandescant lamps were about the only load. and generators were | small, serving a small area, with short transmission distances, and the | full output current being capable of being taken out via the brush gear | of a dynamo. God solution at the time. Where he got it wrong, and | where the Westinghouse/Tesla camp got it right is that they designed a | system with a future; one that could be developed into the sort of | power systems we have today, which span countries and continents, and | connect 500MW generators and multi-MW motors. The Edison system was a | dead end, but if I couldn't take my knowledge back with me I might | well design something similar. Even with that knowledge, there were | applications in the past which might have required a different system, | but which are obsolete today, and therefore no longer required.
Yes, take back the knowledge of power systems and safety. You can't really do it better if you don't take something back.
| Firstly, I would try to get a common worldwide standard. Enables | people to move equipment from place to place, enables manufacturers to | sell the same product in different markets, reduces the risk of people | making mistakes with an unfamilar system, and makes life easier for | people like the OP in this thread, who need to work in different | locations.
Yes, fully universal would be a good thing.
| Just about every power system in the World is three phase a.c., and I | see no reason to do otherwise.
Single phase is cheaper in rural areas. But maybe a usable compromise is to rule out ground return systems, which means you have to have at least 2 wires, and use 2 line wires out of the 3 for single phase. Then you can at least get the same ratio between L-N and L-L as you get with real three phase. But then, three phase is just one more wire, and allows the 3 wires to be a bit thinner to serve the same area.
| Voltage. There seem to be two main camps at the moment, Japan, USA, | Canada, Mexico, I think parts of South Americatoo, all in the 100-130V
And Taiwan.
| range, phase to neutral, and just about everywhere else on 220-240. | About the only application where the lower range is better is | incandescant lighting, which is well on the way to extinction in | industrial and commercial use, and rapidly going the same way in the | home. Small decorative lamps, and halogens are better run at a much | lower Voltage anyway, and the transformer for this can work equally | well on either Voltage, so I'd go for something towards the upper end, | in the 200-300V range. Considerable savings in copper, less risk of | connectors running hot, and possible fire risk with the lower current. | No need for extra insulation; that on existing cables is determined by | physical requirements, and is quite adequate for either Voltage.
Wall switches for the most part are used for lighting. They like to be cheaper as single pole, which means the lights need to run L-N. And if that Edison screw base is to be used, L-N is more important.
But I'd prefer a L-L connection for just about everything else.
If L-N is kept at a low voltage suitable for incandescent lights and L-L is run at a much higher voltage, these would then have to be separate systems (e.g. a small transformer in the home to create the low voltage for the lights). If these are kept separate, then the different ratio between L-N and L-L for single vs. three phase is no longer an issue (the L-L would be made from 2 different L-N voltages depending on whether the distribution source is single or three phase, but these voltages would not be directly used, and so would not be a basis for equipment utilization voltage).
For example, 24 volts L-N for lights (fixed and pluggable) and small loads (shaver, wall warts). Then 288 volts L-L for big loads (this would be 144 volts relative to ground for single phase source, or 166 volts relative to ground for three phase source). The transformer to convert 288 to 24 would be a 12:1 winding ratio. 12 volts would also be lighting option.
| Frequency. Just about everywhere is either 50 or 60 Hz. now. | Applications for which lower frequencies were used, mainly transport | related, e.g. rotary converters providing d.c., and a.c. series wound | traction motors are almost extinct, so I see no reason to go lower. I | would choose at least 60 Hz., possibly 75. Probably not higher, due to | domestic equipment with series wound universal motors. Higher | frequency is a disadvantage with very long transmission lines, but | these days high Voltage d.c. is a possible solution in this case.
I, too, would go with 60 to 75 Hz.
That would eventually impact TV standards, too :-)
| I would supply three phase to homes; in this country all three phases | are taken, at low Voltage, down each street, and houses are fed | alternately from each phase. I believe that in some cases all three | phases are actually taken into each house, but only one is normally | actually connected to anything. So near and yet so far.
I would make three phase optional. With my L-L preference, three phase is just one more wire. But I see relatively little need for three phase in homes, other than as a means to have the main wires be 33% smaller.
| Plugs and sockets. To be honest, I can see problems with all of them. | You said: "Personally, I don't really like the BS1363." What don't you | like about them? They are painful if one is on the floor, with pins | up, and you tread on it with bare feet! They are quite large, but not
That's one reason.
| much more so than a Schuko. I like the internal fuse, essential on a | 30A ring circuits of course, but would have preferred to see different | sizes for different ratings; that would have required different plugs | of course, but would prevent fitting the wrong value fuse. I like the | shuttered outlets, and the shrouded pins. Not perfect, but not a bad
I do think shrouding or recessing, as well as shutters, are good.
| design. There was one strange problem with it; a one penny coin will | fit exactly between the three pins, and will touch all three. In the | days before the shrouded pins a practical joke was to place a coin in | this position, put the plug in a socket, and wait for somebody to | switch on. Most British sockets have a switch. The pins are nice | silid lumps of brass, expenive of course, and well capable of carrying | well over 100A, but they don't bend, have a large gontact area for a | good, low-resistance connection, and there's plenty of metal to allow | some to be removed at the base of the pins, to allow the plastic | shrouding; you couldn't do that with a NEMA, the metal just isn't thick | enough.
The joke done over here was to fold a piece of solder into the shape of a staple, with a hook on each end, and slip it over the plug. Then just leave the plug unplugged. I did try this a few times in college. What I discovered is that no one actually looks. They are so into having discovered the cause of the appliance not working, they just react by plugging it in. DON'T DO THIS AT HOME OR ANYWHERE ELSE. It really was stupid.
When I was in high school, someone folded up two pieces of foil from gum wrappers and fit each one carefully into the 120 volt outlet that was convenient for the movie projector in a class that was starting to fill up. When the teacher came in to show the movie, she noticed the projector had been unplugged, then noticed the wrappers in the socket. She remarked that this was a stupid trick and that someone could get hurt trying to play with the outlet. Then she proceeded to pull them both out at the same time. Fortunately, only her pride had any permanent injuries.
As a result of that, which I witnessed, I actually thought up my own design of outlet shutters. My design had a front face that was rotated around the ground pin. You plug in ground pin first and when it is in far enough, the ground pin would unlock the rotating face. Then you twist the plug some number of degrees and then it can be inserted the rest of the way. I was wishing the ground pin was in the middle of the outlet instead of offset.
Today I would have a circular metal shroud around the pins that is also the grounding connection, and have the shutters unlocked by the shroud, possibly by the rotating action to minimize the mechanics in the outlet that could break.
What I might do with the electrical system I've described so far is use a circular outlet/plug for the high voltage L-L, with 3 openings if three phase is available, arranged in a triangle, or just 2 of them if single phase is all that is available. A 2-pin plug would then fit a 3-opening outlet. The low voltage L-N would have a polarized pair of pins in a rectangular shroud.
Low voltage outlets would be limited to 10 amps. High voltage outlets would have versions for 16, 25, and 40 amps. I might make the 16 amp plug be compatible with the 25 amp socket by using a plug blade that is wider (not thinner or longer) so that the snugness is always there regardless of which plug type is used.
The low voltage 24 volts might even be DC, rectified and filtered from the 288 volts AC.
The tiers of current protection would be taken from every other value in a logarithmic decade scale: 10 16 25 40 64 100 160 250 400 640 1000, etc.
I'll try to make some drawings of my plug/socket configurations later.