Browning Gun Safe .. Sterling series .. will not open

hello , i have a browning gun safe sterling series and i have the combination and have opened this thing for years and now all of the sudden it will not open .. it is a dial type , not digital and its a 4 number combination .. browning said to try to combinate it by moving digits 1 at a time variance from original numbers and it still doesnt work .. do you guys know of an alternative method to get in this thing without using drastic measures ? i have 4 guns in his thing i would like to get out .... any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Reply to
bloggybob
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ok, (SAMPLE COMBO) you SURE its a 4? S&G lock?

10-20 30

try 9-19-29

8-18-28 11-21-31 12-22-32

dialing it right?

4 times LEFT to first number.. right, till the SECOND number comes up the THIRD TIME LEFT, till the third number comes up the SECOND time. right to open.. --Shiva--
Reply to
--Shiva--

hi thanks ... yes i always dial 4 and i dial it just as you mentioned exactly .. i opened it last week and 400 times before and never a problem till now ... anyway, browning said all of their combinations end with 95 .. so i suppose its an S&G 3 number dial but yet i dial 4 .. i dont know why .. but the ones i looked up under s&g look just like it and so you suggest i try the digit manipulation approach ? if so thanks i will try that , but i have a question .. how did it get locked out ? thanks for helping a newbie at this ... im currently studying locksmithing but dont know much just yet ... and i sure get alot of info here and on websites ... but how and why the lockout ? and could you explain to me if you would about the digits changing and the mechanics of that failure ....... and btw if none of that works , is it time for a pro ? btw if it would help i do have a stethascope , but doubt it could work on this type of modern dial ... and thanks again !

Reply to
bloggybob

SIMPLEST is the dial ring has shifted-loose screws or due to 'operator error' in dialing, they have messed up a possible couple of parts internally-if thats the case, then you need experienced help- you probaly cant get it open.

thanks for helping a newbie

if the index mark has shifted, this would counter act that, and allow it to open and you might go DOWN 4 numbers in he combo, and UP 4 also..

....... and btw if none of that works ,

probably..

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see who lives close

btw if it would help i do have a stethascope , but

it wont, EXCEPT for 1 thing maybe, and even thats not an absolute

try this.. pick a direction, turn 5 times THAT direction, stop on 50. turn the OPPOSITE direction, and see if you feel a slight bump AT 50, this will take several turns, but you should feel 3 bumps.. if one shows up WAY OFF, you need EXPERIENCED help..

--Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

... but how and why the

There could be several reasons for a failure. Usually something gets loose, but sometimes it can be something broken.

You weren't playing with it were you? Taking it apart to see what was going on inside?

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Reply to
bloggybob

Where are you located?

Reply to
Bob DeWeese, CML

Not good in this case, but...

If you have a safe which allows removal of an internal door panel which shows all the mechanisms (lock, hardplare, relockers, linkages, bolts, etc.) it's a good idea to take a complete set of photos, including a ruler for scale and sufficient reference points to make it easy to see exactly where you are on the door.

If you ever have the misfortune of having to have the box opened, a professional is really going to appreciate it if you hand him a complete set of photos before you get out of the way.

I learned this from a friend who had to have a box opened due to lock failure. He ended up with more repaired holes than necessary since the diagram obtained from the manufacturer was not exactly accurate. In addition, there are subtle variations in some models (I've seen variations in the location in which relocing mechanisms were welded to the inside of the door, as well as multiple positions in the relocer mounting bracket to place the actual mechanism).

Reply to
rob

I didn't see the original post. Must be one of the ones I'm not getting.

That's true. While I have a reference library that if you stacked all the books on top of each other, would stand about ten feet tall (no exaggeration), plus pics and info on the computer(s) that I either gathered myself from uncommon safes I've worked on or others have posted on safetech sites, I obviously don't have everything. (How's THAT for a run-on sentence?) If I don't had pics and the customer does, that works for me!!!

Again, I didn't see the original post. I sold a Gardall depository safe to a customer years ago. (Now an AMSEC dealer). When the safe arrived by truck, I looked it over. Seeing no visible damage to the cardboard box covering it, I signed off on the ticket.

When I delivered it to the customer (swanky Inner Harbor hotel), I dialed the combination and the lock bolt retracted. Went to turn the handle and heard that dreaded "clank!". (With the manager and head of security standing right there, of course).

I took a good look at the cardboard box and this time noticed a mark the exact shape and size of the dial. Apparently it fell over on it's face during shipping. That bounced the backcover of the lock case loose and fired the external relocker. (Didn't effect the relock trigger - Thank God for little miracles)

(Skipping long story about getting a new door at no charge - ate the opening and repair fee)

Would you believe Gardall actually gave me the wrong DP? Off by about 3/4"!

Man I get aggravated when I have to drill a second hole! Drilling a third hole ruins my entire day!

Ahhh... the dreaded "Random Relockers". That's enough to make you want to rip your page out of their phone book and sneak out the back door. ;)

That's a good time for a nice flexible, articulating scope. (Wish I had one $$$$$)

Bobby

Reply to
Bob DeWeese, CML

i missed it as well.. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

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