Wife and I just purchased a home and are about to change out the locks. I have always wanted to have a remote entry lock system; just seems safer and more convenient.
We have two tall, thin windows on either side of the door however, so we need to have a lock that doesn't have a latch on the inside in case someone decides to break the window and reach in. Right now there's a deadbolt that requires a key on both sides of the door. Has anyone ever seen a remote entry system (infrared/keypad) that would be appropriate? I've done some searching and can't seem to find any viable options.
This topic has been covered a number of times - DAGS (i.e. search Google Groups.)
In brief, that type of security can be fatal if people need to get out in a hurry (e.g. because of a fire) and are not sufficiently aware to unlock the door from the inside (by finding and using the key or other control device.)
I can't think of anything which doesn't have the same problem mentioned above.
Because it's an electronic lock, you can easily mount a REX (Request to EXit) button a few feet away from the windows. The REX is just a switch that activates a feature of your electronic switch to unlok the door.
Most of the commercial grade electric locks will have provision for an REX.
Shiva, Depending on your locality the "Fail Secure" electronic system will have a battery back-up system usually in the control box, with all wires in conduit and/or a manual exit. By the time the fire gets through the conduit to melt the wires you won't need to get out. Else the system must be "Fail safe" ie when the power is off the door is open. I don't know about residential but most commericial buildings have to follow local fire regs. Exit must not require any "special knowlege" or device to use.
I priced a 'credit card' type lock for a business, WITH the 24 hour battery back up option...so if the power was off, the door stayed locked..BUT, this was on the entrance side ONLY...many $$$ in cost.
wires in conduit mean NOTHING in a fire...they can still go bad, and you would STILL be trapped...
24HRS Back-up!!! Must cost more than the system. Most back ups (UPS) are small (motorcycle battery)size gell cells . Many manufacturers control panel will have a "tap" for the BU . I don't know how long a gell cell will last in a "normal system" but I would think less than a day, more like an hour or so . Depending on the system requirements. I installed 1 system that was connected to the alarm system and notified if power was low. I asssume that is common to most commerical installs.
You are correct about conduit in a fire. Conduit is actually to keep the wires from STARTING a fire.
I had an area that had to be asscsesable + locked at all times. + it had to NOT look like a high secured area. + It had to be quite (no buzz or hum ect). It also had to meeet local Fire Codes.. Always able to exit I put in a Schlage EL 80 (an electric door knob w/key override looks like a normal knob)+ a prox reader behind the wall+ UPS in the control box. I just changed the gell cell 6mo ago and all was still working fine.
1) you should have a mechanical override somewhere, though many don't.
2) You can buy electric locks that automatically unlock when the power fails.
3) You can add a battery backup for very little money.
4) you can break down the door or go through a window :-)
The runtime on battery depends on the capacity of the battery, the type of lock and the draw of the elctronics. Typical "motorcycle size" gel-cells are 4-12 AH (amp hours). A 7 AH battery will provide about an amp continuously for about 7 hours, or 1/2 amp for 14 hours. A lot of variables come into play, so that's just a ball-park estimate. A 7AH 12volt gel-cell will set you back about $30.
A lock that fails secure when the power fails will almost always be not energized when locked, so the latch itself uses no power except when unlocked. The current draw of the controller will vary quite a bit but can be determined with a simple radioshack multimeter. The specs may also have the 'idle current' listed.
A modern solid-state controller should not draw very much. I'd expect fractions of an amp for one that's efficient and not too complicated. Please note that 9/10 is a fraction of an amp too :-) An older unit that uses a lot of relays may be more power hungry.
Double Sided Combination (Deadbolt or Spring Latch)
The double sided combination lock is most commonly used on gates or access doors that require a combination to enter as well as a combination to exit. The double sided combination lock can be programmed with same or different combinations on either side. This lock also has a feature for deadbolt or spring latch security.
Deadbolt Function: This lock can be locked from the inside or outside with the simple turn of the knob. To unlock, simply enter your secret code, turn knob to retract the deadbolt.
Spring Latch Function: This lock automatically locks every time the door/gate is closed. To unlock, simply enter your secret code and turn the knob to retract the spring latch.
Keep in mind that it is not recommeded on exit doors that require emergency exiting for the reasons mentioned in earlier postings, but this would be true for a keyed lock as well, which you have now.
The best quality lock I have found can be purchased at:
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I bought severall locks from them last year and really like the look and the quality a lot. And the combos are easy to change.
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