Which is the best entry lock?

Gentlemen:

I would like to buy an entry lock for my home to protect my family and possessions. I need an entry lock and keyed-alike deadbolt to match the existing door. The building owner has given me a budget of $100.00. If I can get good hardware for that, then fine. If I have to pay more, so be it, but I would like as many knowledgeable opinions on this as possible as our security is a responsibility that I take seriously. What is the best? What can I afford to buy if there is a vast difference? Thank you in advance for your help and your advice.

Reply to
Lex Luther
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If you have an ordinary house then your security is provided by 4 millimetres of glass.

Reply to
Roger_Nickel

That's like walking into a tavern and asking what's the best beer. Great taste! Less filling!

With a $100 budget, I'd install a Titan deadbolt and keyed entry knob. I'm sure several other folks will disagree with me.

Let the games begin!!! (or is that "flames")

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

LOLOLOL... nope..\

BUT.. does the door open IN or OUT?

is it a SOLID door or hollow core? SHOULD BE 1 3/4" thick.. NO GLASS, within arms reach of the lock, either.

my FIRST thing is make the builder pull off the INSIDE trim, ASSUMING it opens in, and make him block SOLID behind where the door knob/deadbolt will be drilled through.. they never do, and there is a sometimes HUGE air space there.. IE the ONLY thing holding the door shut is the third rate frame he bough with the door.. about 5/8" or so of wood ONLY

and there is NOTHING wrong with a Titan deadbolt and DK.. ASSUMING there is anything TO install it TO.. (usually NOT) --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

That's like walking into a tavern and asking what's the best­ beer. Great taste! Less filling! Great picking resistance!!!---Less drilling resistance!!--LMAO

goma.

Reply to
goma865

Alot of those third rate frames are made of particleboard-even flimsier.

I'd go with Schlage myself, but the Titan should fit the budget pretty close.

If you do go with Schlage-Use the reinforcing plate and make sure there is a solid "rough frame" behind the door with no electricity close-Screws to the plates are 3" long.

Later, goma.

Reply to
goma865

I would NOT.. the 'house grade' deadbolt that I see now has 'issues' that the Titan does not.

Now, use one of the (old name) LORI deadbolt, THATS another matter

--Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

What country do you live in? I'm guessing the U.S.

If so then use a Grade 2 rated (medium) key in knob lock and a grade 2 rated dead bolt lock, (single or double cylinder, watch those local fire codes!!!) with a grade 1 bolt (The Part That Moves To Lock The Door) which will fit the same way as a grade 2 dead bolt lock bolt (They Are All The Same 2.38" or 2.75", Grade 1, 2 Or 3) and provide better kick in resistance just like the more expensive grade 1 lock. Also use a standard wrap around reenforcement like those by (mag-security or Don-Jo) or others. The wrap around gets installed first, then the dead bolt goes over it. The wrap around reenforces the door only. You will also need strike plate reenforcement. I've found the best way to reenforce a door frame is to install a thick metal plate before installing the door trim (where the bolt would come thru in a kick in situation) at the time of construction and/ or at least install a strike plate (The Metal Plate The Dead Bolt Goes Into On The Door Jamb) that has at least 4 to 6, 3 inch screws that go not only into the metal strike plate but also the wall stud, (The 2 By 4 That You Nail The Door Frame Too).

Stay away from Schlage Maximum Security Dead Bolts or Standard Kwiksets. Look at the construction of the lock. DONT BUY POT METAL!!! (White Metal). Buy brass. Especially the plugs, (the thing that spins with the key that fits inside the shell should be brass!). A Good dead bolt is Arrow or Kwikset Ultra-Max if the plug is brass, some aren't. Schlage B160 (single) or B 162 (double cylinder) dead bolts are very good and not that expensive. These two locks have bolts that will hold up to average grade one standards IMO.

Hope this helps.

Glen

Reply to
Glen Cooper

There have been many good replies to your question. You state that you take security seriously, so you should look at supplementing good locks with an alarm / surveillance system. The locks will slow a determined intruder, but an alarm may allow you to escape or to catch him in the act (your choice).

Daniel

Reply to
dbs__usenet

One concern I have about the Titan is that, as I understand it, the locks are great but anyone can get hold of the "rekeying tool" and use that as a sort of pass key to open these locks. Comments?

Reply to
Lex Luther

the ones that I HAVE SEEN, REQUIRE access TO the key, to 'make that tool'. there has been 'suggested' a SECOND system of that tool, but in my area have NEVER seen one YET.

AND even then, it will NOT 'remove the deadbolt. the door knob yes, but not the dead bolt. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

CY: The rekeying tool has the same cuts as the lock. It isn't a passkey.

the ones that I HAVE SEEN, REQUIRE access TO the key, to 'make that tool'. there has been 'suggested' a SECOND system of that tool, but in my area have NEVER seen one YET. CY: I'm not familiar with that.

AND even then, it will NOT 'remove the deadbolt. the door knob yes, but not the dead bolt. CY: The ones I've serviced,t he rekeying tool will pull the cylinder out of the center of a door knob, or the cylinder and tailpiece out of a deadbolt.

--Shiva--

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

False. The rekeying tool is a modified key. It must be a functioning key before it can be used for rekeying.

Reply to
Joe Kesselman (address as shown

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