500rpm air drill

greets all, recently picked up an air drill at homedepot, the husky brand.. seems pretty solid / well-made.. and it spins at 500rpm (as rated, i measured).

i have quite a few of the husky airtools and i've been impressed by all of them (air wrenches, cutoff saws, die grinders, etc) ... granted i dont work with them night and day.

wanting to move to a more air-driven workshop, and take some of the load off the rechargeable drills, i picked up the drill.

my question is: what the h*ll is it good for?

500rpm seems way too slow to drill into ANYTHING other than wood or maybe plastic.

the smaller bits should be running alot faster.. and the larger bits.. well, anything that'd work well in the 500rpm range i probably wouldn't want to chuck in this airdrill.

so is it mainly for driving screws? is it only for drilling holes in sheetmetal (automotive)?

ideas? pointers? bought the wrong tool?

thanks,

-tony

Reply to
tony
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I think it's geared down to deliver more torque. Sounds like you need a copy of my "TOOL SPEED & FEED / SMOKE COLOR" wall chart for just $9.99, Visa / MC accepted.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

The Husky seems to be among the best of the cheap brands. My usual complaint with cheap air drills is that they are too damn fast, and the triggers are either full on or full off. I find myself burning up bits with them, so many times I have found myself wishing for a slower air drill. BTW, my Husky (also from Home Depot) is a model # H4822 and is rated at

1,800 RPM, so perhaps you just picked up the wrong model.

Vaughn

Reply to
Vaughn Simon

I keep one on my bench for fast and nasty hole drilling. Even at 500 rpm, it will drill a 1/8" hole pretty fast. Its actually a bit fast for screw driving, but Ive used it as such. Busted off the heads more than once too...

Gunner

That rifle hanging on the wall of the working-class flat or labourer's cottage is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there. - George Orwell

Reply to
Gunner

The best thing about an air drill is the harder you work it, the cooler it gets.

Reply to
Shawn

For what it's worth, I think air drills are useless. Perhaps we just have

*bad* ones at work, but we have to drill into cast iron and steel die sets a lot and pneumatic drills have very little torque compared to their electric cousins.

I can easily lean on one hard enough to stop the motor. The electric unit I bought has electronic speed control such that it never bogs down (full RPM at full load).

YMMV.

Regards,

Robin

Reply to
Robin S.

On Mon, 17 May 2004 17:42:49 GMT, "tony" shouted from the rooftop:

Probably work great honing engine cylinders.

-Carl "An honest man doesn't need a long memory"- Jesse Ventura

Reply to
Carl Byrns
1800 sounds more my speed. i've got a pair of bosch 14V-ers and between #1 and #2 speed settings i'm pretty much good to go. (sorry dont know what they are in RPMs off hand)

anything that requires more thought than "fast" or "slow" goes in the milling machine or drill press.

tom-- the smoke color chart sounds like just the sort of genuis the shop needs.. send a few. (what color smoke indicates 'chart on fire'?)

1/8 and under it is,

-tony

Reply to
tony

You get what you pay for. I had a Husky and it stalled pretty easy, not much better than the one sold by HF . At work we had a IR brand IIRC and it would take you for a ride if you were not carefull. We used to routinely turn a 2 1/2" carbiode tipped cutter in wing tank hardpoints on F-16 aircraft to cut out corrosion and install a predetermined spacer in its place according to what amount of metal was removed to clean it up. Then again this air drill probably cost what 6 of those Husky or HF drills cost. Visit my website:

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Reply to
Roy

At work we had a IR brand IIRC and it would take you for a ride if you were not carefull.

I have one of those. 1/2" chuck, for drilling big holes in steel plate. It'll rip your arms out of their sockets when it hangs up. Notice "arms"; it has a side handle, essential for applying enough force to feed into the steel.

3/8" air drills generally turn about 1800 rpm, but some turn faster. 1/4" palm drills turn 3600 or better. The palm drills are hard to beat for punching lots of small holes in aluminum sheet.

Dale

Reply to
Dale Scroggins

When I worked in the Shipyard in Philly, we would be drilling foundation holes using #3 or #4 MT airdrills, you needed to let off on the feed pressure as you broke through or things were likely to get interesting! I don't think it was possible to bog one of those machines down. Later on we switched to Hole Hawgs and a mag based drill press and had much better success with less problems.

John H.

Reply to
Mustmaker

Yup, I've got a couple of those, no teaser throttles. What I did was to stick a throttle valve on the short whip hose, I can turn things down to suit that way. HF has a suitable throttle valve mounted on a swivel assembly, very handy and pretty cheap. Mine get a lot of use working on and under cars, no sparks from brush motors and the more you work them, the cooler they get.

500 rpm sounds like it's got more of a reduction gear setup than most air drills, probably more torque, too. If that's the case, it should handle large drill bits pretty well.

Stan

Reply to
Stan Schaefer

On Mon, 17 May 2004 18:21:40 -0400, "Robin S." brought forth from the murky depths:

I still have my old CP-787 1/2" air drill from my wrenching days. It's a torquey li'l sumbish and is variable speed to 1,800 RPM. I bought the CP because they were very well built, like the Porter Cable line is (was?) for body work.

I'm glad you reminded me of that since I need to use a 3/4" Silver & Deming bit to drill out a new HF saw blade to fit Dina, my old Davis & Wells tablesaw. The $39.95 HF 8" drill press doesn't go deep enough. ;)

-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ----

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

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