Automotive question

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 10:03:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn


Yet the same regulator is still on the truck.
Might have been a vent tube...shrug...scarred the piss out of me at the time
Gunner
"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
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That is actually a scary thought but easy to figure.
Consider this : Lead shakes down into the bottom and starts building a small hill of conduction metal. This then reaches upward and shorts out plates. Or almost shorts. High current occurs only in the battery - likely between plates or cells. High current and hydrogen and oxygen is generated. It likely didn't explode just pressured and exploded. The gas might have detonated post explode from sparks being produced.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
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On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 18:13:42 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"

True enough.
Im old school...I always pull the "power side" first...chuckle...like the hot side in a single phase circuit.
What..you dont like heat treating wrenches???
<G>
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On Sat, 20 Sep 2008 06:41:52 -0700, Larry Jaques

Nope...I learned that with jumper cables and a bit of coat hanger.
"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
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A) I agree with the those suggesting an ammeter in the ground leg. THIS IS WITH THE CAR OFF.
You may see 40-50 mA. with doors closed, etc. [Make sure there's no underhood light.] If it's more, pull fuses one at a time. There may well be multiple fuse boxes, by the way.
I'm going through this with a friend's car. Despite a new battery [several actually; the battery people have tried ....] and a 40mA draw, his keeps dying. I think his issue is he drives his car once every two weeks, and then not very far. I have a Harbour Fright battery cutoff and $10 bolt-in charger for him.
B) To check the charging, don't worry about amps. Start the car, measure the battery voltage at fast idle. It should be ~14v. Turn on the headlights, rear window defrogger, blower etc. You should hear the motor drag down, and maybe the belt sing slightly. But you should still get ~14v, although you might need to give it another 1000 RPM.
Never ever disconnect the battery on a running car. It's a vital part of the equation. If you disconnect it, you get what is called a "load dump" -- the voltage shoots up to ~65V until, several hundred msec later, the voltage regulator manages to get it down to reasonable levels again. [The effective inductance of the alternator is ~~1H; that's why nothing happens quickly.]
By that time, many of the exquisitely expensive electronic gadgets on board may have let some of their magic smoke out....
As for jump-starting:
1) A battery being charged may vent hydrogen. 2) Hydrogen + sparks == kaboom.
It's the jumped battery that is getting rapidly charged after starting. So I make it point to disconnect the first end at the jumping car. In a perfect world, you could just use the block/frame for the ground connection, but lately it seems like everything exposed under the hood is plastic or the wrong shape to clamp onto.
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