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Bolts out of a hub

OK. I had four sheared bolts in a hub from a tractor. Two of them had sheared before, and I have a sneaking suspicion they troubled someone, who simply put the boltheads back in their holes and secured them there.

the other two sheared, with the result that wheel fell off. Not pleasant.

So I welded nuts to each of them. The two that had sheared recently backed out no worries, but the other two would crack the welds before moving. I reckon they have been there a long time, and as I said have probably defeated somebody else before.

I even welded washers to them, and then nuts to the washers, with the idea of increasing the cross-sectional area of the welds by having a shallower target tube to weld into, before putting the nuts onto the washers. Still no go.

This did result in the bolts softening with the weld heat, so I could drill them. However I then snapped an EZout, which failed to impress me. I thought they were a _little_ tougher than that.

The hardened steel EZOut stayed jammed in the hole, and simply chipped off if I tried to back _it_ out.

So I drilled out the other bolt, with the intention of perhaps completely drilling and re-tapping the hole, or using a heli-coil. I drilled two holes, by way of pilots, but then I drilled a final hole. The drill dropped through the bottom of the bolt and hit the bottom of the blind bolt hole on one side of the bit only...and snapped off way down in the hole.

I suppose I can weld-heat the EZOut and start drilling again.

What can I do for the drill bit stuck way down the bolt hole. It's maybe 2" down a 3/8" hole? Weld down the hole to soften the bit, and start drilling again? I have a MIG, so it should be possible.

Any help appreciated.

****************************************************************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !!

Reply to
Old Nick
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Ah, such 'fun' eih? People bring me a good variety of such problems and my 'secret' is an Atrax solid carbide straight flute drill used in the mill. The part must be solidly clamped, turn the drill slow and heavy and don't let it dwell without cutting and it will drill though an easy-out or drill bit. Most times the easy out will have broken off at an angle so you should use the downfeed handwheel to advance and the drill will cut that slant just fine. It would sure be nice to get some of these drills in left hand cut! At first I squirmed about the price but now have a set of them and they sure don't owe me any money......... Phil Kangas

Try to remove the yooper in me to reply.

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Reply to
Phil Kangas

You could have it burned out with an EDM.

Do yourself a favor and THROW those easyouts as far away as you can. Left hand drills work way better.

If it were me, I'd be headed to a tractor salvage to get another hub. Me thinks you're beat on this one. Unless its some super rare collector tractor. All the yards around here are connected by internet and can get the part right away from another if they don't have it.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 01:48:25 GMT, "Karl Townsend" wrote something ......and in reply I say!:

I suppose if I have to ask what that is, I should take it to someone else?

Yeah. They seem to be made of very brittle stuff. I would have thought that they could make them tougher. I was really pissed.

I have had them save me a couple of times, but only to get the screw out from flush, not from jammed.

That may be an option. There are a few around At the time it wasn't because I had to get on with a job. In the end I put the wheel back on with just two bolts. Hey! It had been that way for as long as I had the tractor, I reckon!

There's also that "bastard!' factor

****************************************************************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !!

Reply to
Old Nick

On 22 Aug 2003 11:19:51 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@cbpu.com (JohnM) wrote something

......and in reply I say!:

Sounds dangerous. I have done all this trying very hard not to heat the hub. That would be my worry with any oxy setup, at my skill level.

But it may come to that, or another hub.

The tractor is an old Zetor 3511. Rough as guts and tough as nails! . Parts can be a bitch.

****************************************************************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !!

Reply to
Old Nick

Why not pull the hub so you can work from the back ??? Another thing is to find a solid copper rod that will fit down the hole... Use it like a welding rod... Push it down the hole with the welder heat up high ... Push the copper rod hard to broken bit... Do not let it arc... This will heat up the broken bit and remove the temper... It will get red hot...

Reply to
Kevin Beitz

On 25 Aug 2003 02:44:45 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@lockhavenonline.com (Kevin Beitz) wrote something ......and in reply I say!:

The bolt holes are blind in the hub :-<

hmmm It has possibilities. Have you tried this? I am assuminung that it might work because the heat is generated at the contact point, as in a weld or dry joint in a circuit, but not with an arc?

****************************************************************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !!

Reply to
Old Nick

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