Brake cylinder sleeving

Tom Gardner wrote in article ...

Why not use the latest 5.1 glycol-based fluid? It has the highest dry and wet boiling points of all.

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KyMike wrote in article ...

While it is true that silicone fluid is NOT hygroscopic (water-absorbing), it is ALSO true that since water is heavier than the silicone fluid, any water in a silicone fluid environment heads right to the lowest point of the system - usually the calipers and wheel cylinders - exacerbating the rusting problem.

You are actually better off with DOT 5.1 glycol-based fluid. It has the highest dry and wet boiling points of all brake fluids.....

......and, it will suspend any moisture within the fluid - keeping it away from the wheel cylinders and calipers.

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I think you mean Dot 5, don't you? DOT 4 is little different from 3, and is hygroscopic.

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Rex B

That's not necessarily the fault of the hoses - the old stuff they sold was not up to the Ethanol, Methanol, MTBE, and other funky stuff they're putting in gasoline nowadays "for emissions".

When they started with MTBE I was changing Corvair fuel pumps about once a month, usually pulled over to the side of the US-101, I-405 or the I-10 - and invariably on the way IN to work, rarely going home. All the pumps on the shelf were NOS with the old formula rubber in the check valve and diaphragm material, and the rebuilders weren't going to make any more till they sold off the old ones...

After a half-dozen I got it down to about 8 minutes to swap a pump, I finally got mad enough and installed an electric fuel pump.

You might want to do a bit of research first - get a copy of the National Corvette Club Concours Judging Rules (IIRC they're the size of a good urban phone book) which will give you hints on what to do with the chassis off, and what NOT to do.

Like, you want to use OEM parts (like those brake hoses) whenever possible, and the rules will have a long list of acceptable substitutes if the OEM parts just flat aren't available any more. Doesn't cost you that much more to scrounge up the right pieces and do a nice job, and the car will be worth a lot more if the next person you sell to is going to fix it up and show it.

And you do NOT want to (for example) wipe off or paint over any grease-pencil (yellow, IIRC) 'build marks' on the top of the gas tank. They use stupid esoteric stuff like that as a tie-breaker and they'll get in there with mirrors to look. And then they check them against the official code charts to make sure they're the real marks for that car and not something you whipped up...

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

And I thought I didn't have enough to do...

Reply to
Jim Stewart

More applicable to disk brakes but a posibility. I wouldn't run the old vette hard anyway. Parts are way to expensive :) I run the Porsche pretty hard at times and the fluid gets changed about twice a year. When the vette was on the road it didn't have much problem. The sitting is what is killing it.

Well it has an aluminum radiator, aluminum expansion tank and aluminum intake. The Porsche is all aluminum and I use the orange antifreeze that seems to stay fresh longer and dosen't attack the aluminum. That is also what I run in the vette.

But learning about the new cars and the electronic controls is half the fun of working on them yourself :) About the only things I take to a shop are wheel alignments and waranty repairs. (I run Fords for the real drivers so I don't have to do that much ;))

Glenn Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

Just about, no - You can still do a lot of car servicing yourself, you just have to be honest with yourself about what you /don't/ know.

What procedures (or parts of them) you can do all by yourself, and which ones are best left to the full-time mechanics. And the wisdom to know the difference.

Hint: The computer isn't omniscient and doesn't know what the problem is - it just tells you what abnormal sensor readings it's seeing, and that gives you a clue as to where to start looking.

Helps to have a full-timer as a friend - you can pull the codes from the computer, get a solid list of signs and symptoms, read them off, and before you finish reading the list he goes "Oh that? The #3 Vacuum Switching Valve by the thermostat housing's bad."

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Is there a reason you couldn't make new wheel cylinders out of, say, stainless? I would imagine the collector car market is ready for such a product.

I don't think the master cares what it's displacing volume to, as far as disk vs drum. They're arranged diagonally, so you will have equal volume on each, and equal pressure on each. Presumably that's already balanced by design on your car.

Anyone done stainless brake cylinders? I made some stainless pistons for disk brakes years ago and continue to be happy with them; any reason not to expand that into the whole hydraulic actuator?

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Rex B wrote in article ...

My guess is he means "Split Window Coupe" .......

..........kind of a redundancy - "1963 Corvette Coupe" and "Split Window."

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He Had a conversation with a new kid at the track yesterday, shaking down his 1985 RX7 race car. "I don't know much about these carburetors. Fuel injection, ECMs and all that I'm good with, but I've never messed with a carburetor"

Reply to
Rex B

Well, since so many of them at the time were "upgraded" to the 1964 one-piece window, it's probably worth noting if it's still original.

Reply to
Rex B

Show him a Uni-Syn and explain how it works. That'll get his eyes to glaze over... ;-)

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Well the "old stuff" in this case should have been a steel line. Most of the clips that hold the line to the rail are also missing.

Unfortunately I am not the first to "work" on this machine :( They had the body off and repainted the frame .. right over all the stencils and crayon marks that show the number of shims. He also removed all the shims and vibration dampers .. wanted to lower the center of gravity. The worst thing he did by far though is pulling the original 327/300 and putting a 350 in it. It has flared fenders and several other show killers. I can get the "flair repair" kit for $70 a fender but there are so many other "improvements" that this will always be classed as a "hot rod" and not a NM. I have a correct block and could easily re-number the stamping to match. I have been slowly accumulating the right pieces for most of the restore but the one place I really want to deviate is on the brakes. And even there I only want to go to dual MC. The original brakes ar quite adequate for anything I am going to do with it.

This car is my wife's and she has had it since shortly after graduating from High School in 72. Her ex is the one that took an axe to it with dreams of making a race car. She just wants to be able to drive it again after it has been sitting for close to 30 years. I know it would probably be cheaper and more practical to just go buy a nice driver and sell this one for parts. ... Just so you understand the situation :) I will be retiring shortly and will have the time to devote to a major project like this soooo... My main goal right now is to educate myself to the beasties peculiarities. I have the shop manual and the suplement as well as the parts book. I have the asembly manual on order and am getting into a couple of Vette forums. The forums are not like the Porsche forums I am used to. Many Porsche drivers actually do most of their own maintenance .. seems the older vette drivers fix things with their check book :)

Probably way mor history than ya wanted to see but .. Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

I still get nostalgic and my eyes glaze over when I happen to dig deep enough to find my carefully stored uni syn. Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

I hadn't thought of that.. and it could use the "B" word .. billit :) I don't think you could sell many to the Corvette folk. They are really anal about OEM and numbers matching and "correct" replacement. If you could make it out of stainless by casting and somehow make it look like cast iron with the correct numbers in the casting they may have an intrest. As for my project they may be a great option.

Ok .. if that is the case I wouldn't have any problem finding a replacement. I thought (for reasons unknown) that a Disk/Drum MC would need to output more volume for the disks? Perhaps it equalizes out because the disk piston don't have to travel as far as the drum pistons? Worst case I guess would be that I need an adjustable proportioning valve.

Reply to
Glenn

I didn't use the word coupe. I apologize for using a not so common acronym. I have just been reading so much about it that it sorta popped out :) This one does have the split window. I really hope I never get a broken rear window in this rig .. Prices are more like airplane parts than car parts LOL Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 00:00:17 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Glenn" quickly quoth:

Are those a carb flow synchronizer?

Early in my wrenching career in Fallbrook, CA, I had a guy bring a Lamborghini to me for a tuneup once. I wiped my hands, grabbed a new shop towel and some hand cleaner, then got new shop towels and popped the cowl only to just about soil me drawers when I saw the V-12 with a dozen carbs on it. I would have jumped at the chance to test drive it on the road between Bonsall and Fallbrook, or take it up I-15 at

165mph, but I didn't have a bloody synchronizer. I told him that, too. My boss just laughed and sent him to Sandy Eggo. I think it was a Miura.
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I did, however, have a chance to drive a Porsche 928 at 125mph on Highway 78, a teeny freeway in North San Diego County in 1987. It was 10am, a fresh beer was between my legs as I brought her up to speed in a few short seconds, and then had to hit the brakes hard due to all the traffic. Yeah, I lived fast, dangerous, and stupid back in the last year of my drinking days. It sure was fun, though.

Now I'd love to get my hands on one of these SUVs for S&Gs:

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i can live without the necessities * 2 Tee collections online

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

Hey, you're talking to the guy who has the Corvair parked outside that Mom bought as a 1-year-old used car. I could tell stories...

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Glenn - contact white post restorations, they offer a brake cylinder sleeving service to the old car restoration hobby - I've used them for work on my 51 dodge - you mail them the stuff, they sleeve it and send it back -

there are other services that specialize in sleeving Corvette calipers especially - quite a few of them can be found in Hemmings motor news - I have not personally used any of those.

you are having rust problems because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water. to avoid this, change your brake fluid every year, or every other year. If you do this, you will have no corrosion and your brake hydraulic stuff will last almost forever. Alternatively, if you are careful, you can use DOT 5 fluid, which is hydrophobic, but you have to be careful to not entrap air bubbles as you pour it into the master cylinder. I have used DOT 5 in several cars, in some it leaked out (because it does't cause seals to swell like the glycol fluid), in others it was OK. your vette will probably be OK.

extensive tests have been done with DOT 5 Bill

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to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

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William B Noble (don't reply t

William B Noble (don't reply to this address) wrote in article ...

"Hydroscopic" refers to a hydroscope - an optical device used for viewing objects below the water's surface. Correct term is hyGroscopic.....absorbing or attracting moisture from the air.

Common error...........

Meaning it does NOT absorb moisture. Having litrtle or no affinity for water.

Therefore, any moisture in the system is NOT suspended in the fluid. It goes, instead, to the lowest point usually the calipers and wheel cylinders.

ALL braking systems have moisture in them.......

And, water is heavier than any brake fluid......

I've seen anal-types pour DOT 5 ever so slowly into the M.C., then pump the schidt out of it to bleed the brakes........

AND, you NEVER want to use DOT 5 with ABS........EVER!!!! ......for the very same aeration reasons.

.....which concur with what I stated above.

REAL race cars are now using DOT 5.1 - drivers, crew chiefs, and teams being fed up with spongy pedals and losing brakes when tiny pockets of water in the calipers turn to compressable steam from brake heat.

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