Thanks Bill, There are many well known sources for sleeved cylinders. I want to do it myself :) I did find out that I can get the dual Master cylinder at normal supply houses. A 67 Camaro Drum/Drum power brake cylinder is a direct replacement with the proper valves for drum brakes. Disk master cylinders have no valves to hold the fluid from going back into the resivoir.
Glenn "William B Noble (don't reply to this address)" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
A couple of tips:
Sleeving should be done with stainless steel. If it is being done with brass, find another shop.
The best sleeving I've seen entails putting a thread inside the cylinder, with a matching thread on the outside of the sleeve. The sleeve is then screwed into the cylinder (with appropriate goop). Such a sleeve will not move, and will not leak. Takes a machinist who care to do it, though.
I recommend Autosport Seattle, 2121 Westlake Ave., Seattle 98121 (206.621.1940),
Eelloin
There has been quite a discussion on SS versus brass for sleeving. If you want to pursue this, suggest you contact White Post directly. I am very happy with the brass sleeved cylinders. Perhaps the difference is racing (e.g. the autosport site) versus classic car restoration - I have no opinion to offer RE racing applications, nor sadly do I recall the gist of the pro/con arguements - suffice it to say that at the time (a decade ago?) I was convinced that for my purposes brass was the proper solution.
to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it
will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com
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Moisture comes in primarily through the flexible hoses and the vent on the top of the master cylinder. The best solution is not DOT 5 Silicone which just masks the problem, allowing water droplet pooling in the calipers, compressibility and ultimately causing more problems that it claims to solve. The best solution is that adopted on some modern vehicles especially from those manufacturers not obsessed with zero maintenance for 100,000 miles and all the other crap - moisture testing in the master cylinder reservoir at every service and/or regular fluid changes.
Changing the fluid every year and using DOT 4 will suffice for the majority of applications. Carried out with a pressure bleeder it takes half an hour at most, I know some people that have spent many more hours than that on attempting to solve the problems created by the use of the "superior" silicone fluid.
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