Bridgeport -- transportation and putting it on casters

I have a few questions, A few related to transportation of this mill
and a few related to moving it around.
TRANSPORTATION.
1. It will be loaded on my trailer by a certified rigger (Russian
speaking). No problems here. I will load it without major
disassembly.
Questions:
* How do I tie it down properly so it does not move if I brake.
*
Just where exactly to place it, directly above axle or a little
below?
* Do I need to put plywood underneath the mill?
Regarding unloading, my own thinking is that the easiest thing to do
would be to just rent a forklift for a few hours on Saturday. Would
you think that someone could use a forklift safely without prior
experience.
SETTING UP THE MILL INSIDE THE GARAGE.
This is a 2,200 lsb mill. I know that I will need to move it from time
to time. I want to put it on casters. I bought some casters (which I
have not yet received) that are advertised as rated for 2,500 lbs
each.
There are obviously good ways of putting it on casters and bad
ways. The bad way would be to raise the mill by 8" inches and have a
narrow caster base. That is not what I want to do.
Note that the mill's base has holes in it.
What I would like is buy steel 2x4s, longer than the base is wide,
bolt them to the base above the base, so that they protrude outside
the base, and attach casters to the bottom of those 2x4s. That would
raise the mill by maybe 1" (here I am making some guesstimates). I
will try to make sure that would not fall even if a caster fails.
I wanted to hear some practical experiences with moving mills around,
esp. from people who had them fall, to know why they fell.~
i
Reply to
Ignoramus18706
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some pictures of the trailer, mill, and casters
Trailer:
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Reply to
Ignoramus18706
Common sense will tell you how to place your straps. Pro rigger? He'll know. The manual tells you how to lift it. Lift it with one fork on either side of the ram, pad the forks a bit so you don't scratch it.
PLEASE DO NOT PUT IT ON CASTERS!!! It's too top heavy, I smell a whoops!
Reply to
Tom Gardner
I can finally contribute something here...
I have moved my Bridgeports *MANY* times over the years, being too stubborn to sell them and buy new ones at the new location.
The first one I ever got was in the Bronx, and I was in Fort Lauderdale. I took an F350 truck up there, put it in the bed, and drove it back home. That was stupid. But I did it just the same.
The *best* way to move them involves a few things, all of which are covered in the manual. First, as pointed out, pick them up by placing a forklift tine under each part of the ram's dovetail that stcks out past the actual turret. Make sure to use a block of wood on top of each tine to avoid damaging the dovetail. There is also a place on top of the ram that is threaded to accept an eye bolt. It is recommended to flip the head upside down, as it lowers the center of gravity of the machine. Place of block of wood underneath it and raise the knee/table so that it gently supports the head from bouncing, and lock it in place. Try and keep the table as inboard (close to the column) as you can, while still supporting the head with the wood.
Lift away. Carefully. Go VERY slow.
Often, Bridgeys like to swing, both for and aft, and a little side to side, because of the weight distribution. I will always place a block of wood against the base and tie it there with some rope, so that it doesn't damage itself or the forklift if it swings inward... I also like to grab the rear of the ram with a tie down strap and secure it to the fork tine so that the machine doesn't swing on the tines, either,
Other than that, it's actually pretty easy and straight forward to do.
I'm getting ready to move them again, soon... Both my manual Bridgeport and my CNC Bridgeport...
Have fun, be safe, don't damage the machine, and don't get hurt~!
Go slow, and think ahead.
Best,
Weyland
Reply to
Weyland
Oh yeah.. I forgot...
I would certainly recommend *AGAINST* putting them on casters. Waaaayyyyyyyyyy too top heavy. I don't recall exactly, but I think the head/ram/turret assembly weigh about 1000 lbs. alone.
If you *HAD* to do it, I would make the caster's table no less than 5 foot square.
Best,
Weyland
Reply to
Weyland
I have shipped a number of mills and I have found the best way to set them up is to lag a couple of 4 x 4 oak runners crosswise to the mill. You can easily move the mill with a pallet jack with no problem of it tipping over in any direction. I would lower the knee and rotate the head to the level of the table to lower the center of gravity.
If you do get a forklift, just get a couple of pieces of wood on the forks and you can pick it up with the forks on either side of the column under the dovetail overarm. Since it is hanging rather than sitting on the base it will not tip.
John
Reply to
John
Thanks... I will see how it goes and so on.
As far as that tapped hole for a eyebolt, do you know what is the threading? I wish I took the manual with me.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus18706
5/8-11
I have to admit to having my mouth shut by those pics TMT posted from the drop-box. VERY nice job done, there. I still stand by my recommendation against it until I hear what that man's experiences have been with moving it with regards to its wanting to tip or not. My experience is that they like to tip. They're actually pretty easy to rock, even when on the floor.
Best,
Weyland
Reply to
Weyland
Plan on renting the forklift a little longer than you need. Spend some time operating it before trying to lift the mill. You want to be able to move very slowly and smoothly. If there are any inclines make sure the forklift is always on the downhill side. When lifting, tilt the forks toward the forklift so the mill doesn't slide off. Make sure your trailer and forklift are on level ground when unloading, even if you have to drive the mill with the forklift to its destination. Keep the mill as close to the ground as possible. Use spotters on each side.
I just move a mill. I used 2 2x6 boards as runners from front to back. I rolled it on 3/4 inch galavanized pipe. Curve the bottom of the boards so it will roll onto the pipe easier. Go over to Farm & Fleet and get their 60" pry bar ($20, made in India). The lifting end looks like a chisel. It's flat on one side, angled on the other. Use 2x4's or 4x4's for a fulcrum point. You can then add/remove boards front/back to gradually raise/lower the mill.
Wayne D.
Reply to
Wayne
A portable 2-ton gantry would work nicely here.
One thing is a heavy ratcheting strap up and over the top of the mill and down the other side. Also one trying to pull it forward and a 3rd trying to pull it back.
Uh, on the trailer bed?
Not if your bed wood is sound.
Hmm. Maybe, but GO REAL SLOW.
NO!!! NO!!! Don't go there, Igor! A mill is supposed to be continuously supported all around its base. Make some machinery moving skates, then it's real easy.
Those are for leveling prior to grouting in.
I bucked a 2-ton engine hoist once when I didn't have the legs fully extended, lifting a Bridgie. Also once I strapped the mill down to a flatbed over the knee, which gave somewhat so the mill got loose. I looked in the rearview mirror and the mill was rocking side to side about 12". After I got pulled over and changed my shorts, I strapped it down solidly over the ram like I wrote above and should have done.
Here's a picture of a mill dolly which I made which rolls over engine hoist legs:
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Good luck, go slow.
GWE
Reply to
Grant Erwin
Nope... And I sold a bunch of bridgeport tooling in the last few months. Let's see:
- Set of Bridgeport marked R8 collets - 6" vise - Several swivel tables (though I still have one).
The mill comes with one collet. I also have a R8 to J33 adapter and a hand 3/4" chuck for J33 taper (bet I cannot mill with it)
I do have a few little end mills. Procuring a box or two of used endmills is my least worry. The vise and tool holder is an open question, but discount_machine sells a bunch of such things, and they are not too far from me (10 miles), I might just visit them to save on shipping. They have kurt style vises, collets, chucks etc.
Again, I have not yet decided whether to keep this mill.
OK
OK
OK
Yep.
Yep
Yes, I have a plan for this actually.
do you know what thread?
yes
I think that it would reduce friction.
Agreed.
Yes. I am glad that my idea makes sense to you.
Yes. Absolutely. I think that I will bring the mill on Tue-Wed, and perhaps unload it on the weekend.
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Will do, already started reading.
Looks very nice.
Thanks for good words. TMT>..
i
Reply to
Ignoramus18706
No, you have an ancient M-head with a small table (you sure you want that?). Does not weigh that much. Gotta be less than 2000.
My experience:
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Reply to
Richard J Kinch
I am not sure, do you know anything about that head and why it is not as desirable?
Makes sense, thanks Richard.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus18706
A machine that old (50 years or more, was last made in the 1950s) is almost certainly aged and worn to extinction. Takes oddball spindle tooling. Table and saddle are small. Articulation and rigidity of the head is better on the later J or 2J models. Essentially "version 1" of the machine that, like all first versions, should be (and was by Bridgeport) discarded. For the cost and effort of moving and maintaining such a machine, you should go for the proper type.
Reply to
Richard J Kinch
I know that the ram, turret, and ram adaptor minus the head weighs 395 if we can trust the load meter on the shop crane we used to pull it.
Wes
Reply to
clutch
Igor having just gone through the adventure of aquiring a mill and having had the heart attack at the age of 27 of having it SHIFT on the truck and needing to RESTRAP it at the side of the road I'll share some stories.
I moved the mill 480 miles its an index 45 not a bridgey but its a turret mill and essentially the same basic design ram on both sides of the column is a balanced point to lift it and the ram on both sides of the column SIDEWAYS is a forklift point per the seller.
the Mill was lifted on using a boom truck with a sling on the table and head side.
then we strapped it and backed it up against a pallet at the end of the bed of the truck (Mill resting on bedliner)
then the knee got cranked down onto a block of wood to take the stress off the screws
then strapping the mill was strapped donw to the truck fromt he fornt and back corners and off i went the truck andled way differently and it felt like the ballance was different
THEY are top heavy
I lost a year of my life when i was starting at a light and making a left and the mill SHIFTED to the right making the turn
while pulling over i turned the truck right sharp enough to right itthen added 4 more cross corner straps in the truck bed on the table
the machine dint really get jostled but i NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER want to see 2800 pounds of load in the bed of a truck shift.
The rest of the trip was fine but if there is a rule the POSTED OFFRAMP SPEED IS THE ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM and nothing else happened
Reply to
Brent
I'd practice a bit with it before going for broke.
The mast on a lift can be of two types. One one kind, the mast starts growing as soon as you lift the forks. Not so good if you are inside where there is low overhead. The other kind has what is called 'full free lift' where you have to get to the top of the mast before it starts extending. Likely much better for what you are doing.
Have a light touch on the controls. Down can be very fast if you have a load and pull too far. Have a spotter to watch you. A lot of things are going to be going on, there are blind spots, and this is new to you.
There should be an operators manual with the lift truck. It would be a very good idea to read it.
Wes
Reply to
clutch
Preferably with a piece of 2x4 under the front of the ram.
Gunner
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. Lazarus Long
Reply to
Gunner
Igor,
I've just noticed something interesting. In your pictures, the operator's manual appears to be for a later machine. Look at the picture on the front cover and then at the mill: the two are different. So if you get your weights from that manual, they might not be quite correct.
Best wishes,
Chris
Reply to
Christopher Tidy
On Sat, 14 Apr 2007 22:31:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus18706 quickly quoth:
WCS 1: You're pushing the heavy beastie along on the castered cart and it hits a cement expansion seam/bolt/rock/2x4/kid's toy. The casters catch, the cart stops, and the weight of the mill tilts onto its front legs, skidding the cart out the back with the mill's full weight or force against it. It quickly either breaks dozens of bones in your feet and ankles OR takes both your feet off at the ankles. There'll be no more standing and milling for _you_, son.
Reply to
Larry Jaques

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