Clutch master cylinder rebuild kits?

While on my way to LA this morning, the ##!!%&!!! plastic hydraulic line from my clutch slave to the clutch master blew out. Nifty 3/16"
hole in the side of it. No idea why it did this.
Ok..so I manage to creep up to the nearest town, and buy a piece of 3/8 gas line, some clamps and brake fluid and cut the line, and sleeved it.
Since the Mazda/Ranger pickups use a bastard master cylinder, the only possible way to bleed one is to lift the floor mat, pull off the starter override switch and pop the snap ring that holds the piston inside. This I did. I gently pulled it upwards until I got a bit of brake fluid tricking out, then replaced everything, refilled the reservoir, and tried the clutch. This resulted in a stream of break fluid spewing out of the end of the master cylinder. Taking it all back apart again, I completely removed the piston, inspected the two cup seals, back flushed with clean brake fluid..and reassembled. Still blew brake fluid. At this point I was screwed, so starting it in gear, I drove back down the Grapevine , and the 40 odd miles to my home, with no clutch.
Going around to all of the parts houses..no one stocks a rebuild kit for the master cylinder and they all want $90USD for a new complete cylinder assembly.
WTF??????????????
Are rebuild kits no longer available? Like I really can afford to spend $90 for two cup seals no bigger than .5" in diameter.
#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gunner
"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide." - Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main Weapons"
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What year truck?
michael
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On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:11:12 -0700, michael

1994 Mazda B3000.
Same as the Ford Ranger.
Gunner
"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide." - Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main Weapons"
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Gunner wrote:

I'll ask about tomorrow. Someone may have a kit or master gathering dust.
Buckshot's Daddy

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wrote:

www.rockauto.com shows a rebuilt kit for $15 and change. The interface is javascript so I can't post the url. Part number is Wagner F122577. You can get to it by browsing Mazda - 1994 - b3000 - Brake/wheel hub - Master Cyl repair kit
I haven't ordered from these guys yet, but I like their web interface. I'm going to try ordering some stuff this winter.
Matt.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Matt) wrote:

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd: A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...
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Ayup. And I dont think Ive ever seen cup seals .5 in diameter.
Gunner
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
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If by .5, you mean .5 inch, I've got a stack of four of them sitting here on teh corner of the computer, waiting for me to figure out a better place to park 'em.
If you're talking any other unit than inches, then I gott go "Idunno..."
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I was trying to say brake cup seals .5" in diameter. Brain fart on my part. <G>
Gunner
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
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wrote:

How about a guess since your in trouble? Maybe the problem is with the slave which caused the line to break form over pressure. If the cups look ok you should be able to hold your tongue just right and get it together without leaking till you find new parts. Maybe twist it in.
Plastic line that goes down under a vehicle where one rock or branch could break it? What's this world coming to? The last pool I did had plastic fences in the neighborhood and the one I'm on now has the top cap of the block wall glued on with liquid nails and a sloppy job at that.
Wish I could help , but even my Toy's hydraulic clutch gets me to scratching my head at times. Once in awhile it will start acting like I ran it out of fluid and I'll check it all out and find nothing and then it will start working again.
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On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:52:06 -0700, Sunworshipper

I honed the inside of the cylinder, and twisted it in. Its working now. At least for a while.

The hole looked exactly like somone fired a BB from the inside. Really strange.
I put a brass double ended ferral compression fitting on as a splice and a bit of 3/16 tubing inside to compress against. Seems to be holding pressure..so far.

It wouldnt be so bad, as the truck has 337,000 miles on it, but I put a new master cylinder on it less than a year ago when the $%#@!!!! slave cylinder went into meltdown. That bastard wraps around the pilot shaft INSIDE the bell housing and carries the throw out bearing. So to replace it, you have to drop the tranny. And its nearly all plastic and when it goes into melt down..it really does melt down.
I figured that it was time to replace everything clutch related, so I did.
Gunner
"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide." - Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main Weapons"
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That doesn't sound like fun, on my Toy its on the outside of the tranny and it's all metal. Lots of luck.
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Gunner wrote:

That sounds like the classic failure mode for plastic flex line. A little kink or bend forms a bubble and blows out under pressure. Leaves a dragged out bit of thin plastic around the hole. Looks like a bullet hole, without an entry. Yech!
Any U-pick wreckers in your 'hood ? Around here I can figure on spending about $8 for a clucth cylinder of any sort, from the places I shop. If you go that way, grab a spare... :-)
I have been finding the parts dealers don't want to stock the nickel and dime rebuild kits as much as they used to. I recently had to spend about 45 minutes on the phone to find someone that would even admit that I could get a clutch disc for my 86 B2000, without having to buy a complete kit for $200. UAP NAPA has been good to me, in general.
Good luck! Cheers Trevor Jones
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|| || I have been finding the parts dealers don't want to stock the nickel ||and dime rebuild kits as much as they used to. I recently had to spend ||about 45 minutes on the phone to find someone that would even admit that ||I could get a clutch disc for my 86 B2000, without having to buy a ||complete kit for $200.
That's true. I think it has to do with the core handling & asbestos issues. plus, the orientals across the water make them new for pennies. Texas Parts Guy
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On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:10:49 -0600, Trevor Jones

Ive haunted all the pick a parts in my neck of the woods and as yet have to be able to find this particular model. They seem to run forever. I really really need to find one that had been wrecked from the rear, as all my smog parts are original, including the O2 sensors and really need total replacement. I need to be able to strip one down. I keep looking though.
Gunner
"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide." - Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main Weapons"
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Gunner wrote:

Yeah, my experience has been that replacement parts NEVER last as long as the originals. Oh, except that time the pressure plate blew on my Vega with 18000 miles on it! I had a choice of 2 clutch discs, about 7.5" and 14" and of course chose the big one. It was now practically impossible for anyone but me to drive it (one I learned the magic clutch trick that I called the "inertial dump", contrary to proper technique in all other vehicles) but the big clutch disc was still going strong at 76000 miles!
Otherwise, absolutely NOTHING I've ever replaced on a car lasted as long as the original part.
Jon
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Gunner, Short story - helped my nephew replace the slave on his 94 Ranger - (Yeah, inside the bell housing), so dropped driveshaft, crossmember, exhaust, transfer case, tranny and bell housing - Got his "new" one out of the box - it looked about the same, but was made out of metal instead of plastic, otherwise about the same - and I was glad to see they changed it to a metal case... installed, reassembled everything, got ready to connect the line (one of those special pop-on connectors) and it wouldn't fit - no way, no how.... Parts shop said bring it back - tore everything apart again, returned original out of the truck and the one he bought - here someone, someplace, put the wrong slave in the box with his correct part number on it. Parts guy pulled another off the shelf and it was plastic like the OEM part.... reinstalled AGAIN, and this time the connector fit (like we didn't try that before installing it, hee hee )..... Anyway - helluva job made worse by some jokester or dumbass somewhere... sigh Ken.

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On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 01:40:48 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@netzero.net (Ken Sterling) wrote:

Yup. I changed mine out on the burning concrete in front of my RV while up on jackstands and by myself. Lots of fun wrastlin that tranny up in place and getting it stabbed with the CAT rubbing the end of a fellas nose.
How did you bleed the clutch master cylinder?
Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann
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calmly ranted:

That's gotta hurt, that unrequited tickle.

Push clutch in, crack open the line from the MC to the SC, close, repeat as necessary. The MC should have a compensating port to self-bleed, so I usually do that in the vise (with the port blocked) before installing. Numerous light taps on the piston (1/16" long) will help bleed it. Watch for tiny bubbles from the comp port, the smaller hole in front of the fill port for the cylinder. When they're gone, most of the air is out of the MC.

The savvy machinist would have modified an inexpensive version from another vehicle so that future replacements, if even necessary, would be quick, simple, and painless.
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If I remember correctly, we dropped it down out of there and tilted it so the air would go toward the lines, then pumped it... Ken.
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