Clutch master cylinder rebuild kits?

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 05:18:35 GMT, Gunner calmly ranted:

That's gotta hurt, that unrequited tickle.

Push clutch in, crack open the line from the MC to the SC, close, repeat as necessary. The MC should have a compensating port to self-bleed, so I usually do that in the vise (with the port blocked) before installing. Numerous light taps on the piston (1/16" long) will help bleed it. Watch for tiny bubbles from the comp port, the smaller hole in front of the fill port for the cylinder. When they're gone, most of the air is out of the MC.

The savvy machinist would have modified an inexpensive version from another vehicle so that future replacements, if even necessary, would be quick, simple, and painless.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques
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I've heard others say they could shift without clutching. How do you learn to do it? What do you listen for? When do you know to shift?

RWL

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Reply to
RWL

it's not hard to do - it was easy to learn on my morgan, a bit harder on my

38 plymouth, no problem on my 56 porsche, etc. handy if your clutch linkage fails (ask why I know this?). start the car in gear, accelerate to first shift point, let up a little on gas so engine is neither pushing nor slowing the car, pull shift into neutral, let revs drop to proper value for next gear, and press lightly into gear - if it won't drop in, raise or lower RPM as required.

but first, learn to drive with the clutch so that no one can feel you shift, then learn to double clutch, and then the above will be quite easy

Reply to
william_b_noble

It helps to have a tachometer. On my '70 MGB IIRC it was around 3400 RPM for all forward gears and make a mental note at which speed for each gear that you can pull it out of gear. That should be done when there is little pressure on the transmission kinda like down shifting with you foot on the gas letting the MPH drop slowly. Typically it will be around 20mph for 1st, 32 mph for 2nd, 44mph for 3, 58 for 4th, and 66 for 5th. When accelerating you want to go over these numbers so the vehicle doesn't slow down beyond the right speed while the engine rpm is dropping or your wasting time trying to get it in. It also helps to have a nice transmission to get the idea instead of frustrating grinding with a tractor or a VW.

On the MG it was so easy that I seldom used the clutch, on my Toy I only do that when I have to.

Anyone know of a truck transmission with over drive that shifts like a MG ?

Reply to
Sunworshipper

I tried it for ya this morning. Be nice on the acceleration and deceleration and slightly put pressure for it to move out of gear. Put the same pressure into the next gear asap and wait for the right speed of both the engine and road speed. Down shifting you would have to raise the rpm and wait for the fall just like doing it with the clutch.

Long ago I worked roping houses and the guy driving would down shift with the engine at idle at all mph's. I pointed out after a couple of days that he was burning up the clutch the way he was doing things and he didn't argue very well , but he was absolutely right.

I can tell that people don't like to follow me cause I down shift alot , not my problem that they only have go and coast. And that they can't see that the light *just* turned red. That reminds me of those spinning wheel things . I drive around looking at the tires of vehicles , not the paint job or chrome. I get a green light and panic while accelerating into the intersection and see wheels moving in the corner of my eye.

Reply to
Sunworshipper

Reply to
Ron Moore

Those things are FARKING GAY!!!!!!!!

Tim

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Reply to
Tim Williams

If I remember correctly, we dropped it down out of there and tilted it so the air would go toward the lines, then pumped it... Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

Chuckle.... if there ain't a notch there - then GRIND one... Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

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