Clutch master cylinder rebuild kits?

Shifting without the clutch on a tranny WITH syncros is a good way to end up with a tranny WITHOUT syncros. Unless you are perfect every time, the syncros will jam and produce major wear on the blocker rings.

OTOH, I've driven a few miles without a clutch several times in an emergency. You want to be very careful. The last time was in traffic. I tried a quick test to see if the engine would start in first. When I found that it would (geared starter, light car), I just drove it to the garage in stop and go traffic and had them put in a clutch cable (Honda Civic) to replace the one that had snapped. It's really not hard, but you need to be very gentle with your shifts. As the engine approaches the speed where it will be when the gears are meshed, gently ease up against the syncro. When the engine passes the right speed and the match is right, the syncro blocker ring will let the collar pass, and it will drop in. Whatever you do, don't force it in. That's a sure way to cause some damage.

It helps to have driven a few crash boxes. The worst I ever had to drive was a '42 Chevy school bus that had a box full of sliding gears. Not even one constant mesh gear, except for top, which was straight through. Like a whole tranmission of unsyncronized first gears. What a bitch to drive, but it developed your skills.

-- Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)

I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love America

Reply to
Bob Chilcoat
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I've got two used ones, with hoses. 1 from my kids 93 and 1 from my 94. You just need to come to Florida to get them. gary

Reply to
Gary Owens

Dental floss? (I find more uses for that stuff)

Vaughn

Reply to
Vaughn

This brings back fond memories, Bob.... Grew up on a farm and could shift gears on all the farm tractors without clutching - UP and DOWN.... With the synchros in the tranny, it's actually a lot easier nowadays. It's a good thing to know how to do and a little practice now and then keeps the talent honed... Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

I've got two used ones, from a 93 and 94 ranger, with hoses, but I'm in Florida. gary

Reply to
Gary Owens

Way cool! Thanks!

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Reply to
Gunner

Got any of the smog stuff? 3.0 v6 on the 94 should be the same as mine. With 387,000 on the original smog stuff..it needs changing out, including the O2 sensors

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Reply to
Gunner

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:34:39 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat" calmly ranted:

I used to shift with my hand on the tunnel (easy on my sister's MGB GT with my forefinger or thumb against the base of the shifter) or with the tip of my little finger on the shift knob (Corvair, where the floor was a long way off) for effect. Knowing the sync speed was the key to a keeping the shift force to about 2 ounces as it slides right into gear.

To help sync non-sync first gears, shift into reverse before first when you're at a complete stop. It prevents that CHINK you hear so often in movies, where people grind gears. That works with second gear on many boxes, also.

Fun! That's where you really learn to listen to RPM and look at speed to know where to both upshift & downshift.

-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Another way is to use one mill thick brass shim stock. Cut a piece that just fits inside the bore, when rolled up, and be sure to de-burr the edges from shearing, using some 600 grit paper.

I roll that into a cylinder, and slip the cups into the part sticking out of the bore. Sometimes I need to put a bit of scotch tape on the seam of the brass to firm it up a bit.

Jim

Reply to
jim rozen

||This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage: || ||Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine ||monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the ||cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string ||continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to ||the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end ||so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension ||so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the ||cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose ||far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly ||as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup ||into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all ||the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

Hey, this is Metalworking! Proper technique is to chuck a piece of rod stock into the lathe, and bore it to a diameter slightly larger than the small end of the cup, and slightly smaller than the bore of the MC. A through-hole need not be quite as big. Insert the cup into the bore with about 1/6" sticking out (extra points for a step-bore to facilitate this), apply to the MC, and poke it in with a rod from the backside of your new tool. Texas Parts Guy

Reply to
Rex B

Excellent discourse, one of the only ones I've ever seen. It also explains the concept behind double clutching unless I'm mistaken.

Thanks.

Jim

Reply to
jim rozen

IF you've ever mastered a crashbox, with a clutch, shifting a syncro without the clutch is a cinch. I drove a 1943 powerwagon for 2 years (towtruck) and very seldom declutched to shift. My Mini and Vauxhaul Firenza, 53 Dodge, 57 Fargo, 67 Peugot, and '49 VW shifted without benefit of the clutch most of the time.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Does a late 1940s/early 1950s (nobody knows for sure on this particular one - We THINK it's a 1952, but a few items on it seem to say that it could be as early as a '47, and might be as late as a '55) Ferguson (Not Massey-Ferguson, not Fordson - "straight" Ferguson - before either Massey or Ford hooked up with Ferguson) tractor count as a "crashbox"?

I suspect it probably does - This critter is/was a serious case of "double-clutch or forget about it" when it came to shifting time. Or even better, "Stop completely, then shift".

Trying to shift it clutchless was a lot how I imagine grabbing the business end of a running jackhammer would feel. First time I tried it (accidentally - Foot was out of position, and when I mashed the clutch, it jumped out from under the toe of my boot) my whole arm "buzzed" for half an hour afterwards.

Reply to
Don Bruder

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shows a rebuilt kit for $15 and change. The interface is javascript so I can't post the url. Part number is Wagner F122577. You can get to it by browsing Mazda - 1994 - b3000 - Brake/wheel hub - Master Cyl repair kit

I haven't ordered from these guys yet, but I like their web interface. I'm going to try ordering some stuff this winter.

Matt.

Reply to
Matt

Haven't followed the link to see for sure, but something strikes me odd: A brake kit isn't likely to do a lot of good for a clutch cylinder...

Reply to
Don Bruder

Gunner, Short story - helped my nephew replace the slave on his 94 Ranger - (Yeah, inside the bell housing), so dropped driveshaft, crossmember, exhaust, transfer case, tranny and bell housing - Got his "new" one out of the box - it looked about the same, but was made out of metal instead of plastic, otherwise about the same - and I was glad to see they changed it to a metal case... installed, reassembled everything, got ready to connect the line (one of those special pop-on connectors) and it wouldn't fit - no way, no how.... Parts shop said bring it back - tore everything apart again, returned original out of the truck and the one he bought - here someone, someplace, put the wrong slave in the box with his correct part number on it. Parts guy pulled another off the shelf and it was plastic like the OEM part.... reinstalled AGAIN, and this time the connector fit (like we didn't try that before installing it, hee hee )..... Anyway - helluva job made worse by some jokester or dumbass somewhere... sigh Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

Ayup. And I dont think Ive ever seen cup seals .5 in diameter.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Reply to
Gunner

Yup. I changed mine out on the burning concrete in front of my RV while up on jackstands and by myself. Lots of fun wrastlin that tranny up in place and getting it stabbed with the CAT rubbing the end of a fellas nose.

How did you bleed the clutch master cylinder?

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Reply to
Gunner

If by .5, you mean .5 inch, I've got a stack of four of them sitting here on teh corner of the computer, waiting for me to figure out a better place to park 'em.

If you're talking any other unit than inches, then I gott go "Idunno..."

Reply to
Don Bruder

I was trying to say brake cup seals .5" in diameter. Brain fart on my part.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Reply to
Gunner

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