Perhaps just purchase a set of replacement dies for the expensive crimpers and operate them in a large vise or hydraulic press. Should give you the legit crimp for a lot less $ and time and effort.
Pete C.
Perhaps just purchase a set of replacement dies for the expensive crimpers and operate them in a large vise or hydraulic press. Should give you the legit crimp for a lot less $ and time and effort.
Pete C.
I've used the clamping bar from a flaring tool in a pinch....
I recently had to solve this exact problem with zero budget and no time at all. My workaround proved remarkably robust. I had to butt join two welding cables, the light-gage kind used with smaller machines (don't know the number, sorry). I cut a short piece of 3/8" soft copper tubing from the end of a roll I have, and as it was tough to get over the wire, decided it needed the ends formed outwards slightly like two mini-funnels on the ends. I took two 1/2" ball bearings, set on on a bench block, held the short tube vertically touching the top of the ball, put the other ball on top of the tube, and then tapped the top ball with a hammer, driving the balls together. This did just what I needed, put a neat little flare on both ends at once. Then I was able (just) to slide both (stripped) cable ends into the opposing ends of the piece of copper tube. Then I just put the tube in the bench vise and squashed it. It isn't particularly pretty, but it seems quite strong. You may be able to see the joint in the picture on this writeup, although a ground clamp is attached to it:
GWE
For those, solder and a crummy crimp (such as a cave-in the barrel or even (ugh) squash the brazed-barrel) may be just fine. I'm assuming they won't see much use and very little vibration.
Yes. The only thing worse is when they see a lot of temperature variation. We have made tens of thousands of high-current cables for high-end injection molds, and the crimp and material selection were both critical to lifetime.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
$15.75 is too expensive? One that will crimp 8 gage to 4/0 using a hammer is that price from
I have one of these, or one a lot like it. It works fine. Use a big hammer.
Well, there will be relatively little vibration, but they will be used to conduct electricity. Just very rarely, if ever, touched or moved.
Yes... Here, if they do not fail, I will be fine. Now, if the crimp does fail, and the welding lead falls someplace in the inside of the machine, that could create a hazardous situation or even destroy the welding machine.
So, I need a reliable crimp, but it would not necessarily see much stress.
that would work fine with me. Thanks. I will check it out.
i
I agree. A good mechanical connection is preferred.
Harold
Perhaps, but solder work-hardens ... a LOT. If the joint is subject to even slight vibration or flexure, the solder-only joint will eventually fail. Maybe sooner than later. The reason for the mechanical connection is to rigidize the joint before applying the solder. Then the solder is NOT subject to excessive flexure.
This has become less important in most modern electronics, where the solder joints have little mechnaical strain applied to them (due to the tiny size and weight of many components).
Similar things can be said for corrosion and thermal expansion in the solder joint.
Dan Mitchell ============
It certainly cold flows a lot.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
I don't think that alloy shows work hardening.
Jim
I've never seen it cold flow, either, for that matter.
Not to be disagreeable but I've used simple lap joints in vehicle electrics for *years* with no ill effects. They don't embrittle and snap, they don't turn to putty and ooze apart. At least none of mine have.
Jim
I have personally fixed a few "cold" joints in old TVs just by reheating the solder joint. I suspect the failed connection was related to mechanical stress.
Food for though: How much will a conductor will move that is carrying a couple hundred amps every time you strike an arc. Magnetic fields can be pretty strong at high current.
There is a battery shop near me that sells all the terminals and wires too. They do have a crimper that they charge $1.00 per crimp to do it for you. Bob AZ
They're hand held like a bolt cutter though they do have a over center toggle action. Here's a picture.
Mines not the S model with the sure stake mechanism. But that's not a problem for me since I'm always going to go the full stroke (unless something goes wrong).
Good for 8ga to 250MCM so they're more than ample for the 2/0, on down that I use them on.
Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX
Ever used screw terminals on tinned stranded wire?
Usually you have to re-tighten them the next day.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
I've heard these described as "firestarters".
LOL.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
Ignoramus25589 wrote: > I will soon need to crimp many terminals on many short, but thick, 1 > gauge or 0 gauge cables. >
I think the replies so far give a fair impression of the situation. You can make a joint which will work without a crimper, but you can't do a nice job.
Chris
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