Sure. I actually have no objection to stereotyping of, say, Chinese businessmen. But it is good to find real causes of their behavior.
i
Yep.
Sure. I actually have no objection to stereotyping of, say, Chinese businessmen. But it is good to find real causes of their behavior.
i
Yep.
Similar to the bolt cutter grinding approach, you can buy versions with it already part of the blades. You can buy them at the hardware store for about 60 bucks depending on the size. They are actually designed for crimping/swaging connectors on wire cable (the structural kind). We also use them on large size crimp-on terminals. Our crimper, which is the smaller of the two sizes, will crimp up to 1/8" wire cable or the crimp connector on #6 wire. The larger version will crimp up to
1/4" wire so I would assume it would probably do up to about 2/0 connectors. We crimp our connecters first and then drip molten solder down the gaps to help with the electrical conductivity.
And I've got a half dozen atwater kent radios that have been well used over the years. They all use simple lap joints and none of them have any degradation.
Look the properties of lead tin solder are well known. It doesn't cold flow, it doesn't work harden. If something is attacking lead tin solder chemically, wrapping the wire around the terminal a half dozen times isn't going to help. The joint's still going to fail.
Solder joints rely explicitly on the mechanical properties of the solder to form a gas-tight joint. Think about it: if the mechanical connection has a chance to take *any* strain then the gas-tight nature of the joint's been compromised.
All that mil-spec gear looks great (and I love the aroma, too) and it was a great idea to quantify the skills and train the solderers in a uniform fashion. But the joints are excessive IMO.
Jim
Yes it exists.
Don, thank you, I won that auction. I will try to look for proper dies for them, mostly #1, #2, $4 etc.
i| Soldering, correctly done, is probably the best method for electrical | conductance, but solder isn't an acceptable mechanical joint. In many code | jurisdictions, soldering is prohibited -- mostly because many people won't | or can't do it well, but also because of the mechanical weakness of the | joint. | | They always taught us in electronics schools, "Make a secure mechanical-wrap | before soldering; solder isn't glue." | | LLoyd
I stayed out of this one to see what would come up, but what I've seen and worked has yet to be mentioned, so I'll offer my experience:
I really like what's called copalum splices and terminals, even for copper wire, because the intense pressure actually causes the aluminum to flow into and around the wire completely, making a 100% sealed and perfect connection, but they aren't cheap and the tooling even worse. The high quality of the connection is the reason they're used for aluminum terminals, since the lack of any resistance or corrosion entry point prevents any thermal movement which causes fatigue and fires and gave aluminum wiring a very bad name. The terminals allow aluminum wire to work to its best adantages.
If I made a boo-boo or need correction/clarification somewhere, by all means have at it!
The high tech wire we used was 3/4" diameter > 1000 strand and would bend in a
4" radius. It took the 500 amp -2v current to the buss. (where others showed up)Makes great jumper cables - so I am told. I got a harness, but the good stuff was gone. I got away with the 3/8" and 1/2" stuff. Have some fantastic 10 ga size that carries current!
Long lost the manufacturer of this very flexible and very high current wire. Using some in the current (high current that is) project now.
Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
D> According to Ignoramus25589 :
4" radius.
Maybe DLO, Diesel Locomotive Cable?
Ned Simmons
This thread is almost over and everyone will go home without anyones mind being changed. But I will put in my bit anyway.
I think making a mechanical connection before soldering is usually a good thing. Not because it is needed after the joint is soldered, but because it prevents any movement while the joint is cooling. You all have seen the frosty look of a joint that was moved as the solder solidified. So I agree with Jim that a mechanical joint is not necessary, but it may prevent a " cold ' solder joint.
And then I agree with Carl too. A solder joint is only so strong. If it is being mechanically stressed very much it will fail. But if the solder is only supporting a short bit of wire, the stress will be well below the yield point of the solder, and you won't have any fatigue problems.
And I think the reason you should not tin stranded wires being held by screws, is not so much that solder cold flows, but you do have thermal changes to contend with. You get the solder deforming when there is expansion, and then oxygen can get in when there is contraction.
Dan
carries current!
I ran into some info on using fine stranded power cable (eg. for wiring up solar cell arrays), but didn't save the link. Apparently, the crimp is lot more critical than with coarsly stranded wire-- if you don't practically mush all the strands together into solid metal it can fail catastrophically fairly easily.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
According to Ignoramus3498 :
Congratulations -- that is a nice price.
You won't *find* #1 dies. They are not part of the series. For that one, the choices are #8, #6, #4 and #2 -- *only*.
You also won't find crimp *terminals* specific for #1.
I think that the #2 will suffice for the #1 as well. In the smaller sizes, #16 (yellow) will also handle #14, and #10 (blue) will also handle #12. (And the next smaller size, red, is rated for #22-#16. The range seems to get smaller as the wire gets bigger.
The bigger crimp heads (separate hydraulic only -- you have to connect to your own pump if one is not part of the auction) are the #0 (1-0), 2-0, 3-0 and 4-0 -- all with separate dies for the same crimp head.
I just went down, and while I find the hydraulic heads, and the pumps easily enough, I don't find the container with the dies and the matching terminals. I'll have to try another time -- perhaps during the day instead of after 1:00 am, when I hit the newsgroup and see your postings, Perhaps a direct e-mail instead of a posting might get to me in time to go down in the daylight.
Enjoy, DoN.
According to Don Murray :
Hmm ... Bundy -- yet another maker. AMP and T&B are fairly interchangeable in the pre-insulated terminals.
These look like they are un-insulate (just a color coding layer on the outside), so perhaps a #2 die would work well on these without the insulation. The starting bid is certainly attractive.
Thanks for the pointer -- I suspect that Igor should go for these terminals, as he is likely to have to pay that *each* for ones bought from a store. :-)
Enjoy, DoN.
I think you are talking about the color codes on the terminals? I was just looking in my junk box tonight for some terminals to use on 12 Ga wire. Yellow seemed to be the answer, but I only found a couple -- plenty of red and blue. Oh, well.
So I think maybe you got the gages and the colors confused -- or maybe there is something else going on that I don't know about. If the codes on my wimpy cheap cripmer are correct, red is 22-18, blue 16-14 and yellow 12-10.
On a related note, just how are you supposed to strip (ie. remove insulation from) these large cables? I've seen strippers up to 8 gauge, but nothing larger. I can't believe a utility knife is the proper tool.
There's a lot to this. I believe that until recently the Chinese government encouraged companies to make pirate copies of books, videos DVDs etc. Actually they might still, but I'd heard it was changing.
Chris
Here are two that I like to use.
The color code repeats itself when you get bigger. I don't think it's quite so easy to mistake a 4 gauge terminal with a 16 gauge terminal (if blue is #4, I don't recall exactly)
Harold sez: ". . .More likely due to corrosion . . ." That's about it - but - the joint has to be open in the first place for corrosion to occur. A good solder joint won't corrode to the extent of failure; a bad solder joint is already an "open" invitation for corrosion. Corroded joints act, electrically, as diodes. A piece of loose "tie-wrap" (tower jargon for radiator hose clamp) on a tower can form a diodes capable of supporting destructive intermodulation interference to receivers on the tower. That's probably what got into Harold's microphone. Motorola's famous engineer, Russ Larson, once found corrosion inside a large neon sign to be the cause of extreme intermod on a building antenna site in Kansas City. Russ proved the point by pouring some motor oil down into the sign. This type of corrosion-diode formed interference is recorded ad infinitum in the history of crowded radio communications sites.
Bob Swinney
. I've experienced such a phenomenon on a
"AL" wrote in message news:UridnShG snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com... | On a related note, just how are you supposed to strip (ie. remove insulation | from) these large cables? I've seen strippers up to 8 gauge, but nothing | larger. I can't believe a utility knife is the proper tool.
Works fine. Just mind what you're doing. Use a very sharp blade (I always start with a brand new blade,) score the insulation and then rip it open. If that isn't enough, cut it deeper. My favorite thing is to score the insulation around circumferentially (sp?) first then bend the wire until it breaks. Once that's loose, pull it off. If necessary I'll score into the slug longways, but the idea is that when you pull it off, the strands are clean and still lay in place. Some folks cut it away like they were sharpening a pencil, but they make sure the blade angle is such that the edge won't cut into the metal when it gets there. The standards I have to work to won't allow that because of the potential for error on critical lengths.
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.